Hello Everyone,

My brother recently purchased a 10x10 plastic shed from Sam's Club and we are needing to build a base before putting together the shed. I was wondering what is the cheapest and best way to build a base? Should be build it from pavers or block with pressure treated wood? I tend to think that pavers would last longer but I am unsure of the total costs of the build. Does anyone know anyone who is good and inexpensive at building shed based in the South Jersey area? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

i used pavers for the base of my resin shed..  dig out a few inches of ground, flatten it out, put the pavers down and set the shed base on top of the pavers..  ideally, you will want more than a few inches down for a base, but i wasnt about to dig down 2-3 feet or anything..  so far, held up fairly well (its a synthetic shed after all)..  only slight movement and its been about 6 or 7 years...  honestly, i did the whole thing myself, so if i can do it, its not THAT hard... (just make sure to get the dug ground level before putting the pavers down).. my 2¢...

Pavers work well. You should dig out about 6/7 inches put a layer of 3/4 gravel about 4 inches thick pack it down with a tamper. Ten a layer of sand about 1" don't pack it. Then the pavers . The gravel will help drainage,sand helps the pavers level and then it will last and you can store anything you want in it

I bought the modular plastic base along with my shed (both from either Lowes or Home Depot...don;t really remember).   Pavers would work very well as a floor, but the plastic flooring also supports the bottom perimeter of my shed. 

Please make sure to anchor the shed to the ground.  I used angle iron hammered into the ground and screwed into each corner of the shed.  If the pavers extend beyond the shed itself you may not be able to anchor and the shed could be affected by wind.

You have to make sure the shed is anchored so it won't move in a wind storm. You also need to remove all vegetation from the inside of the shed or when it dies it stinks. It is important not to make it a "permanent" structure or the tax man will be on your case (zoning guy also, check before you erect, some towns are a PIA with sheds). I have done this many times and has lasted years for all that I have done it for. Dig out all the grass, etc. and level where the shed will go. Make a framework (like a foundation) out of 6 X 6 PT ties and connect them by screwing nailing plates on the inside. Line the bottom of the area with landscaping fabric. Back fill with 3/4" crushed stone. Now erect the shed on top of the 6 x 6s anchoring to PT Wood. Using the wood as a frame you can line the floor area with what ever you want. Pavers, etc. I would get redimix and pour the floor. Works great, keeps shed anchored. makes for a nice raised area at the base of the shed to protect it when weed wacking, etc. Inside nice floor to make it easier to get mower, etc in and out.

 

Ventilation is also a requirement otherwise things tend to rust up pretty good. Moisture still makes its way up out of the ground and condenses on inside of shed if you don't.

 

Setting the PT wood on a sand or stone base will help with keeping excess water away from the base. Directing run off from the roof of the shed away from it will help big time also.

 

Good Luck with the project.

You have to make sure the shed is anchored so it won't move in a wind storm. You also need to remove all vegetation from the inside of the shed or when it dies it stinks. It is important not to make it a "permanent" structure or the tax man will be on your case (zoning guy also, check before you erect, some towns are a PIA with sheds). I have done this many times and has lasted years for all that I have done it for. Dig out all the grass, etc. and level where the shed will go. Make a framework (like a foundation) out of 6 X 6 PT ties and connect them by screwing nailing plates on the inside. Line the bottom of the area with landscaping fabric. Back fill with 3/4" crushed stone. Now erect the shed on top of the 6 x 6s anchoring to PT Wood. Using the wood as a frame you can line the floor area with what ever you want. Pavers, etc. I would get redimix and pour the floor. Works great, keeps shed anchored. makes for a nice raised area at the base of the shed to protect it when weed wacking, etc. Inside nice floor to make it easier to get mower, etc in and out.

 

Ventilation is also a requirement otherwise things tend to rust up pretty good. Moisture still makes its way up out of the ground and condenses on inside of shed if you don't.

 

Setting the PT wood on a sand or stone base will help with keeping excess water away from the base. Directing run off from the roof of the shed away from it will help big time also.

 

Good Luck with the project.

 

In Silverton, tax man told me that anything 10 x 10 or larger was taxed, wether permanent or not, then pulled out a tape to check that mine was 8 x 10 ( apparently couldn't visualize the difference between a square and a rectangle )

Two important words:

 

GroundHogs.

 

Or is that one word?

Darn groundhogs destroy all our foundations in our out buildings all the time here on our farm.

GREY Crushed Stone and rent a Tamper 

lay the stone  tamper it then walk away

its the cheapest and fastest and its so so easy

Plan your groundhog counter measures before you set your foundation. You will thank me later

Rent a concrete mixer and pour a slab. Sink anchors in concrete if you want. Much cheaper and easier then pavers. Should you want to get rid of the slab you can easily bust it up with a sledge

Rent a concrete mixer and pour a slab. Sink anchors in concrete if you want. Much cheaper and easier then pavers. Should you want to get rid of the slab you can easily bust it up with a sledge

^^^^^^^BEST WAY

If you're going to use pavers, I would recommend making a box out of 6x6 landscape ties as others have mentioned. This will retain the pavers as well as provide an easy surface to secure the shed to. Spike the corners of the ties together and secure them to the ground with #4 (1/2 inch) rebar two feet long or so. Your pavers should be sitting on a Quarry Process (or Modified for you South Jersey folks) base 4-6" thick with an inch of coarse sand (concrete sand) over the QP.

 

Putting down a sheet of woven Geotextile, like an Mirafi 200 equivalent, under your QP base is also not a bad idea. Spend your time getting the QP graded and compacted properly, this will make the end result be as good as it can be, you will not be able to fix dips and humps properly when you spread your sand layer. Keep your QP base 3" below the top of the ties (assuming your using 60mm [2&3/8"] thick pavers). The pavers will last longer than your shed, especially since they will not be exposed to the weather directly. You can use regular play sand as a joint sand, polymeric sand is not necessary for an "indoor" paver application.

Rent a concrete mixer and pour a slab. Sink anchors in concrete if you want. Much cheaper and easier then pavers. Should you want to get rid of the slab you can easily bust it up with a sledge

 

THIS  ^^^^

you can drive some 2" x 2"  square tubing into the ground to anchor it to that is not permanent.. 

Thank you everyone for the wonderful suggestions! My brother and I went shopping to price out the materials today and the pavers alone would cost around $750. I am thinking we might just use block and/or block and wood to save on money. Do you think this would hold up at all?

Thank you everyone for the wonderful suggestions! My brother and I went shopping to price out the materials today and the pavers alone would cost around $750. I am thinking we might just use block and/or block and wood to save on money. Do you think this would hold up at all?

Why are you not listening to my advice to pour a slab?

 

Wood rots, hold moisture and attracts insects. Even pressure treated.

I am listening to all of your suggestions. I am just trying to be cost effective. Do you perhaps know a good person who can pour a slab at a low cost? Thank you for your help!

Thank you everyone for the wonderful suggestions! My brother and I went shopping to price out the materials today and the pavers alone would cost around $750. I am thinking we might just use block and/or block and wood to save on money. Do you think this would hold up at all?

$7.50 per square foot? - those pavers better gold nuggets stamped into them at that price.

 

I'm not close to you, but I sell pavers for under $3 a square foot and I have some close out pavers for $2 a square foot. Shop around, you're certain to find cheaper pavers somewhere.