Hey guys. In the middle if a kitchen remodel. Removed the soffit today and the upstairs toilet drain was in there

 

 

My only option to move it above the floor joists is to use a flexible 90 fernco at the toilet end and a fernco sewer tee at the existing 3" copper drain/vent pipe. Some people said as long as it installed correctly it should be fine. Just thought I would get some advice from any plumbers here.

 

On the other hand i did get a few cabinets installed on the other side of the room and so far I am very happy with the way they look

 

 

Thanks!

No way I would trust a fernco fitting up there.

 

Could you move it up with some couplings?

 

The picture makes it look like you could cut the whole assembly out and just move it up using some couplings and a short piece of pipe. Only have to notch 1 beam. 

 

I'd find another way over the fernco if it where my house.

I dont see why you couldnt repipe that properly with pvc. Dont use a fernco

I dont see why you couldnt repipe that properly with pvc. Dont use a fernco

I think he's trying to remove the soffit and not cut into his joists.

 

Looks to me like that joist is large enough to take a hole big enough to fit the pipe, and so heavyop's suggestion of some couplings to move the whole thing up would work.

 

I think you have drill a hole larger than 1/3'rd the size of the joist, but I'm going from memory 7 years ago when the inspector looked at a hole for a wire drilled through a small joist and said we just made it.  Put another way...don't take my word for it...get an opinion from someone who knows what he's talking about. lol

With PVC I would still need to use 2 ferncos where the 3" copper drain/vent is. I bought the PVC tee and , some sch-40 pipe and the ferncos so I can raise it in the joist. The problem with that is After installing the first fernco, the tee would still be too low. Actually I would have to cut more wood in the corner where the tee would go as the PVC is thicker. This one is killing my brain

Se more pics so you can see a little better. No problems with cutting a hole in the joist. They are 9.5 inches.

 

 

 

 

 

Any plumbers in the toms river area willing to come over maybe Saturday? I will do whatever you need me to do and I can get any piping fittings that would be needed.

 

Thanks

Any plumbers in the toms river area willing to come over maybe Saturday? I will do whatever you need me to do and I can get any piping fittings that would be needed.

 

Thanks

PM Brisco here on the forum. He's a plumber.

Call advanced plumbing ask for Pauly Denora he's my cousin!

I'm not a plumber either. But I wouldn't want to use a fernco on that lead-end. So if you re-pipe that section, You will probably want to replace the floor flange and wax seal under the toilet also.

A couple of observation/suggestions. The horizontal run is history so you're better off replacing that section from the toilet flange to the stack with a pvc Y with pvc pipe glued in top/bottem for the fernco to secure to. I would work from the toilet end first to determine the cuts in the stack for the Y. You should not notch the bottem of the joist but center the hole and re-inforce it underneath if you want. Before you cut out the horizontal pipe out mark its location on the bottem &sides of the joist to be cut so you can make a fairly precise cut, remembering the hole is  angled to the wall and slightly pitched down. An alternative to that angled cut would be a straight thru cut and have the pipe make a90 degree long radius turn toward the stack. Also your concern about the thickness of the fernco/pvc, wood can easily be trimmed out after the old pipe is removed and if the fitting sits a little proud of the stud you can plow out a little of the backside of the sheetrock, just put a blob of spacle in it to stabilize it when installing the sheetrock. And lots of dry fitting before gluing! One more thing, make sure the stack above the cuts is secure or tied in to other piuping, if its free standing they have been known to creep down a little and cause potential leaks in the roof collar.. Have fun !

Thanks for the advice. Ill be calling a plumber tonight when I get off work. A friends guy he has used for years and he said he won't bang me on hourly rate. Ill keep ya posted

Cut the joist, head it off with a header between the 2 joists,  that should give you pleanty of room to work. Don't forget to use joist hangers for the header.

Plumber is coming over tomorrow night to look at it. My friends dad said he does great work and has used him for all his jobs when he was in home improvement. If I can get that pipe moved and the other 3 water pipes as well for a reasonable price I'm going with him. Peace of mind

Don't notch the joist.  You can drill as long as you don't get into the upper or lower 1/3 but you can't notch, it kills the strength.

 

You need the long bend under the tub for the stopper assemply.  If you go with a toe stopper (pop up type), you can do a shorter bend and end up coming through the joists instead of under them.

I have seen this exact problem before.  You can cut the bottom of that joist out.  You will HAVE to install a steel reinforcing plate (not the nail on ones from simpson either) to give it its strength back.  I can give you the number of a company that custon manufactures them. I have to get it from the GC of the job Im on at the moment.  I will repost it for all when I get it.

Ken

I can order all of those items as I know a guy in sales. We do use a stopper as well so that is good news!

Whatever you do, don't call AJ Perri or Gold Medal,  they are total ripoffs !     I learned the hard way....

Well the plumber came. Nicest guy. I help and to move the toilet drain and re route 3 water lines its 300 bucks. Money well spent! Thanks guys!

that sounds more than reasonable to me.

Ken

how did he end up doing it? new pics?

The plan is to cut the 3" copper so the invert of the new PVC tee is around 1 1/4" above the bottom of the joist above the existing copper tee. We will use a mission coupling there. (Most likely have to make a small hole behind my baseboard upstairs to tighten the top of that coupling). Then we will run new PVC all the way to the toilet and all the way down to the crawl space. The crawl space will have the second mission coupling. This way there really is no worry about having the fernco coupling behind anything. The one up too will only be part of a vent. I will take pics when we start Friday night

dibs on the scrap copper! sounds like a very fair deal.

Just a word of advice. If you are going to drill the joist for the new pipe get the hole as close to the center of the joist as possible to retain the structural integrity of that joist. If you cut too close to the bottom then that joist now is compromised. If you are getting it inspected cutting too close to the bottom may even get a failure from the inspector.

Exactly. We are going to cut no more than 2 inches from the bottom straight through. Then 90 over to the wall to the vent stack

Thanks

Well we moved the main drain for the toilet. Finished about ten last night so he will be back Monday or Tuesday to do the water lines. Did a great job

 

 

 

 

Getting close. Here is an updated pic. May add 2 more cabinets to gain more counter space. Might as well do it now!