I bought some steel case ammo(Tulu) and was wondering if I should use it or not. Some people say its not good to fire in ARs. Does it damage an AR? If so what does it do and how many rounds are we talking? My barrel is chambered in 556.

Shell might get stuck/glued in chamber. There are a number fo theories why this happens.

 

Some uppers have a problem with steel ammo.

Stag is one of them from my experience. Only brass works for me.

 

Give it a try but have a rod and hammer to get the stuck case if that happens while its hot or it will get so glued.

If it works and yu have no problems , do brush the chamber and ckean hard after each time yu go to the range.

Only one way to find out, is to try it....

 

I've personally fired more than 500 rounds of Tula through my Ar, with ZERO MALFUNCTIONS, YES ZERO!

 

Damjan can vouche for atleast 250 rounds of me firing it.

 

If you don't feel comfortable with Tula, let me know. I will take it off your hands.

As everyone else stated, try shooting off a few mags and see how it functions. If after a couple hundred rounds your AR feeds it fine, then you should be good to go. Some ARs are finicky and usually will give you a problem within those couple hundred rounds.

Wolf is awesome, use it often

I wouldn't recommend it to break in a new rifle since its rather weak ammo and might cause cycling issues. Clean your chamber and other components well after shooting and you'll be fine. Steel is all I shoot when training at the range.

Thanks guys. That guy in the video sure seem to know what he was talking about.

When they were using copper jacketed projectiles I loved it. With copper washed steel projectiles, I don't.

 

 

From experience with multiple AR's...  use it.  Like everyone else is saying..  if your AR is ok with it, have a blast!

Also... If you get your gun running nice and hot... Try not to leave a round in the chamber if you take a break. This helps mitigate the number of stuck cases.

 

 

I have found that when timed correctly, Wolf should be ejecting at 4 o'clock while my lake city, pmc, and hand loads are right at 3 o'clock.  Wolf is a little underpowered compared to most manufactured ammunition but not enough that you will notice it shooting at NJ distanced ranges.  Buy it, use it, and have a safe fun time. 

In depth article on steel v brass ammo in ARs:  http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/

 

Personally, I run only brass cased in my ARs.  It's cleaner, more accurate and more dependable.  But I know plenty of people who run steel and have no/very few problems with it....

I would run steel cased ammo if it was all i had access to... But is it even really that much cheaper than brass? I only shoot brass because I recently got into reloading...

If you shoot steel, and there is any chance you might ever use the rifle for self defense, then you will have to clean the chamber after every range trip. Just to be sure. And don't use the steel for self defense. Not only is it possible to malfunction, but more importantly it doesn't fragment. Because of the projectiles, not he casings.

 

It does cause more barrel, throat, and port erosion according to recent torture tests by others. Probably matters more with unlined chambers/barrels and if you are into high accuracy shooting. Won't matter to most people with military barrels.

I don't know about cleaning, I've got one AR that I shoot steel through and I'll go over 1k before I clean it and I never had an issue.  It is a little dirtier but not really too much more than cheaper brass ammo (should say old cheaper brass ammo lol)

 

The problem with steel cased ammo is this; internet lore takes a long time to die

The problem with steel cased ammo is this; internet lore takes a long time to die

 

That goes for too many things on forums lol. 

I don't know about cleaning, I've got one AR that I shoot steel through and I'll go over 1k before I clean it and I never had an issue. It is a little dirtier but not really too much more than cheaper brass ammo (should say old cheaper brass ammo lol)

 

The problem with steel cased ammo is this; internet lore takes a long time to die

The issue with cleaning is that brass cased ammo can get stuck on the fouling that gets past the case because it doesn't deal the chamber as well.

 

I haven't experienced it with a chrome lined 5.56 chamber swapping back and forth, but i know of at least one person with a stainless wylde chamber barrel that swapped between wolf and some Indian surplus with soft brass. It's jam up every time and the extractor would rip off a chunk of case rim.

 

Bad, bad juju in a life or death situation. There's no reason to take that risk when it's easy to avoid it with some cleaning.

Only if u are swithching back and forth with hot action.....

As I said, I like using steel cased ammo when training because that's the time I want to learn to deal with malfunctions, not when I'm in a life or death situation. Unfortunately, I have not experienced any malfunctions yet (I guess I got lucky) so I'll continue to run it. I know it's just a matter of time before I start getting jams or stuck rounds in the chamber so I'm ready for it.

 

As far as cost, Cabelas had Herters for $6 for 20 ($0.30/round). What's PMC Bronze now ~$9 for 20 (~$0.45/round)? Personally, I don't mind having to clean my AR more often than not because I run dirtier/cheaper ammo.

 

As far as the using steel cased ammo will break your AR myth? Show me proof that certain damage was caused by it. I'm not talking corrosive ammo, I'm talking steel cased ammo.

 

As far as the using steel cased ammo will break your AR myth? Show me proof that certain damage was caused by it. I'm not talking corrosive ammo, I'm talking steel cased ammo.

All you have to do is really google, many places about garbage steel ammo