Ok so I think I have everything I need to reload 223/556....

I also think I understand the process..

 

One thing I don't get is seating the bullet and crimping it... What do I need to do... And more importantly what DONT I do...

I don't crimp rifle rounds.

I don't crimp rifle rounds.

So crimp is not critical? Just set bullet to depth and I am done...

Pretty much..... I crimp pistol and rifle rounds. I just hate to see empty station on my progressive press.

Bulk ammo

 

The set I have is lee crimp and seating die in one...

The lee pacesetter dies have a separate factory crimp die. Which lee dies are they?

The bullet needs a slight crimp at a minimum. Otherwise during feeding operation a round could feed a little on the rough side and seat the bullet further back into the case and you would never know till you pull the trigger.  Not saying it would happen, just it could.  I have seen bullets seated to deeply increase pressures on the case to cause me great concern for overpressure.  A crimp into the cannelure would be a prudent step.

The lee pacesetter dies have a separate factory crimp die. Which lee dies are they?

I'll have to double check for sure when I get home... Maybe I am mistaken.... I looked at them briefly and was told that the seating was also the crimping but that information may be incorrect...

If you are going to crimp you ideally want to use a separate die for crimping. You can seat and crimp in one but you really need to have all the brass trimmed to the same length. I find I get better results with a separate die.

 

I wouldn't crimp for a bolt action and I apply a light crimp for AR rounds.

As a highpower competitor and reloader, I deal with my match rounds differently from my 'zombie' rounds.

 

My match rounds (Sierra and Nosler HPBT 52-69-80 depending on distance) are NOT crimped. They rely strictly upon the neck tension of the brass to hold the projectile in place, are boxed in 100's by me and are handled gingerly, not thrown around indiscriminantly.  Every point counts in a match and I strive to recover every single piece of brass from the line following each relay.  Sometimes the Brass Gods take their due, though, and I leave some for them!

 

My zombie rounds (62gr SS109 and 55gr SoftPoint) are another story. I use a Lee Factory Crimp on every single one of them.  There's no telling how they are going to be handled prior to making into the weapon that will ultimately fire them at some point in the future. And the last thing you want is for the bullet to be set back into the case.  The .223 is already a high pressure cartridge, with some, but not a lot of room for overpressure. Blowing a primer out (the usual first reaction to overpressure) into the trigger mechanism will make for a bad day if you happen to be firing like your life depended on it (which it may be very soon)

 

The LFC die http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456506/lee-factory-crimp-die-223-remington may be the best $13 any .223 reloader could spend!

you were correct.. on my Lee set there is a bullet seating die and then also a crimp die.. 

I am just loading ammo to blast with.. multiple mags... mag changes.. center mass hits.. 

 

j0n suggested a light crimp.. I think that I will definitely crimp since I have the extra die JUST to crimp.. but I really need an extra Lee turret.. and every time I think to check they are out fo stock.. 

I am just loading ammo to blast with.. multiple mags... mag changes.. center mass hits.. 

 

j0n suggested a light crimp.. I think that I will definitely crimp since I have the extra die JUST to crimp.. but I really need an extra Lee turret.. and every time I think to check they are out fo stock..

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NOSISO/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115

Opinions are like A$$ &*^%$$ everybody has one.

 

I'm close to Nicky on this one...

 

For practice I shoot 55gr FMJ with a cannelure . These I crimp with a separate crimp die. It's a Dillon taper crimp.

 

Accuracy stuff I shoot Match Kings.  These have no cannelure and they don't get crimped.  I have run them through a magazine without any set back.

 

I sound like a fanboy but Dillon stuff is top notch, a little more expensive and usually available.  BTW I use a Dillon carbide sizing die.  Worth every penny.

I've brought my calipers to the range & did some testing to see if I could cause a non crimped round to set back & was unable. Further more I've pressed a round into my press hard enough to deform the jacket & still not set the bullet back. I'm not saying as the brass ages it won't change but I've had good luck thus far. I also don't load bulk, if I'm going to take the time to reload I'm going to do it right & make match grade ammo. Just one mans thoughts.

Using a LEE FCD place the bullet in the shell holder and raise the ram to the top. Run the crimp die down until it contacts the brass. Lower the ram. Some folks says a quarter, some say a half (too much IMHO) but turn it down about an 1/8 of a turn and raise the ram and see if you can feel a bit of pressure. If you don't feel much at all do another 1/8 for a 1/4 total. You shouldn't have to do any more than that.

 

I crimp my bottleneck cartridges and I've read studies both ways regarding accuracy. However the crimp is also intended to prevent any bullet pushback from firing the gun as well. I try really hard not to over crimp.

 

I've used the LEe die setup in the pat but don't any longer. I use the RCBS seater crimp die because I use a single stage press and I uniform my brass.

I use a very very light crimp on my .223 rounds w/cannelure

As a highpower competitor and reloader, I deal with my match rounds differently from my 'zombie' rounds.

 

My match rounds (Sierra and Nosler HPBT 52-69-80 depending on distance) are NOT crimped. They rely strictly upon the neck tension of the brass to hold the projectile in place, are boxed in 100's by me and are handled gingerly, not thrown around indiscriminantly. Every point counts in a match and I strive to recover every single piece of brass from the line following each relay. Sometimes the Brass Gods take their due, though, and I leave some for them!

 

My zombie rounds (62gr SS109 and 55gr SoftPoint) are another story. I use a Lee Factory Crimp on every single one of them. There's no telling how they are going to be handled prior to making into the weapon that will ultimately fire them at some point in the future. And the last thing you want is for the bullet to be set back into the case. The .223 is already a high pressure cartridge, with some, but not a lot of room for overpressure. Blowing a primer out (the usual first reaction to overpressure) into the trigger mechanism will make for a bad day if you happen to be firing like your life depended on it (which it may be very soon)

 

The LFC die http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456506/lee-factory-crimp-die-223-remington may be the best $13 any .223 reloader could spend!

What njJoni guy said, Nosler 77&80 custom Comps no canallure. 77 loaded to 2.255 no crimp, 80s for the 600 yd single load slow fire loaded 2.450 in a Wylde chamber.