What would be your ideal NJ legal muzzle device? Length? Diameter? Placement of holes and/or slots? Open or closed end? Do you want it to reduce recoil, muzzle rise or just look evil?

 

I am contemplating designing and having one manufactured. It will be long enough to make 14.5" barrels 16", and the threads will be 1/2" x 28 TPI. The sound and flash will not be controlled. It will be tested and found to NOT suppress the flash and it will be advertised that way to satisfy NJ laws.

 

Thoughts?

The ideal device is a thread protector.  All the NJ legal tacticool gadgets are generally a waste of money.  If you are shooting a 50 cal I'd say a break/comp would be useful, but the low recoil of .223/5.56 is so little even a 12 year old can manage it.  I'm sure I'll receive a lot of flack from the tacticool crowd.  If you must attach a device, I'd recommend a Levang (or similar) linear compensator.  You get the tacticool look while not pissing off your range mates.

Maybe something similar to the Nordic Comp which is same diameter as barrel to permit work on gas block

The ideal device is a thread protector.  All the NJ legal tacticool gadgets are generally a waste of money.  If you are shooting a 50 cal I'd say a break/comp would be useful, but the low recoil of .223/5.56 is so little even a 12 year old can manage it.  I'm sure I'll receive a lot of flack from the tacticool crowd.  If you must attach a device, I'd recommend a Levang (or similar) linear compensator.  You get the tacticool look while not pissing off your range mates.

 

What about competitive shooters who need to make 2nd and 3rd shots as quickly as possible. While my comp may not be "friendly" to my range mates, it does what I need it to do. When stage times are decided in as little as a second, the dead time between shots becomes all that more important. Its not my job to worry about the other shooters on the line. If the side blast from something like a surefire MB556 is that bad, maybe those who dont like it can move over a port.

 

Paul- something like a MB556 would be awesome but coming in at a lower price. It greatly aids in the reduction of split times, but the price tag can be a little rich for some people.

i tend to like the more simple designs like the battle comp 1.5 or the bravo company extended one that takes 14.5" to 16"

 

i tend to prefer ones designed to make 14.5" -16" because if you have to pin, why not go 14.5".  

 

i tend to dislike ones that have pointy or really weird styling like the FSC556 or the troy claymore and things like that.  

 

i really like the look of the surefire mb556 or the ops inc style brakes. 

http://www.specializedtactical.com/weapon-parts/zmtd

 

 

I love sharp pointy objects so something like this that isnt 225.00.

I like being able to take 14.5" to 16". I don't care about recoil reduction, I do like decreasing muzzle rise between shots. I like brakes that are slightly wider then the barrel, not really fat brakes. I like the look of slots over holes (I'm sure there will be a slew of bad jokes over that comment). I also like a closed end.

I'd also like one pre drilled through the threads so I can follow the pre drilled hole and pin/weld myself without messing up the brake.

That's my thoughts.

Keep them coming.

 

NOTES BEING TAKEN.

I like being able to take 14.5" to 16". I don't care about recoil reduction, I do like decreasing muzzle rise between shots. I like brakes that are slightly wider then the barrel, not really fat brakes. I like the look of slots over holes (I'm sure there will be a slew of bad jokes over that comment). I also like a closed end.

I'd also like one pre drilled through the threads so I can follow the pre drilled hole and pin/weld myself without messing up the brake.

That's my thoughts.

+1 on pre drilled hole and include pin if possible

My preferred device would mitigate muzzle rise. Not worried about recoil or scary looks. I like how the dynacomp and surefire braked look tho

I like being able to take 14.5" to 16". I don't care about recoil reduction, I do like decreasing muzzle rise between shots. I like brakes that are slightly wider then the barrel, not really fat brakes. I like the look of slots over holes (I'm sure there will be a slew of bad jokes over that comment). I also like a closed end.

I'd also like one pre drilled through the threads so I can follow the pre drilled hole and pin/weld myself without messing up the brake.

That's my thoughts.

So if the mfg pre drills the hole how are you planing on indexing the break?

Are you going to shim it enough that the hole is on the bottom?

 

If you are good enough to properly drill a barrel, are you not able to drill the brake?

I have come across some very hard brakes and could never get a drill bit to penetrate. They will be pre-drilled and shims included.

Or you can grind a little bit off the base of the device to get it clocked. That's what Paul did when he installed two of my breaks.

 

So if the mfg pre drills the hole how are you planing on indexing the break?

Are you going to shim it enough that the hole is on the bottom?

 

If you are good enough to properly drill a barrel, are you not able to drill the brake?

Also,

 

1) nobody said the pin has to be on the bottom.

 

2) there is still a designated bottom and a top of a break/comp so it will have to be shimmed/ground or use a peel or crush washer anyway.

Drilling the threads of the end of the barrel is fairly easy when done with patience.

Some brakes are so hard they are tough to drill.

So yes; I'm good enough to drill the threads but not good enough to drill each brake.

Sand paper, time and a crush washer will allow me to line up the brake where I want it.

It needs to be effective. Rule number 1. As far as nice to have features for nj, .750 diameter with shims, avoid tines to avoid flash suppressor arguments, and find a way to make it effective without a high pressure chamber or other feature that keeps the crown from being inaccessible for cleaning.