So, it seems that the FP on my 92 is broken. 

 

This will be my first attempt at smithing, and based on Youtube vids it doesn't appear to be that big of a deal to repair.

 

2 questions for the forum.

 

1) Where to order parts?  Should I stick with original factory Beretta or are there other (better/worse) options?

 

2) Is there any other preventive maintenance I should perform now, while I'm in that mindset?  I know I'd like to replace the D spring with something a little softer.  Should I also replace the extractors?

 

Thanks in advance for your replies, and Happy Easter.

Go to Dave Olhasso's website :http://www.olhasso.com/PS/parts.htm

 

He also competes in some local USPSA matches.

 

Btw, Dave also does trigger work on Beretta's and he is just in PA. 

Now would be a good time to upgrade your spring to the " D Spring " if you havent already, really lightens up the DA pull and does not affect reliability

since when do these things break??  

How do you know it's broken? I had an issue where I thought mine was broken but it turns out the firing pin channel was just filled with crap. I put the entire slide into a sonic cleaner with plain water for a few cycles and that shit came right out. Extractor groove cleaned up nicely too.

How do you know it's broken? I had an issue where I thought mine was broken but it turns out the firing pin channel was just filled with crap. I put the entire slide into a sonic cleaner with plain water for a few cycles and that shit came right out. Extractor groove cleaned up nicely too.

This. How many rounds do you have through?

Side note. Do NOT lube the firing pin channel.

How do you know it's broken? I had an issue where I thought mine was broken but it turns out the firing pin channel was just filled with crap. I put the entire slide into a sonic cleaner with plain water for a few cycles and that shit came right out. Extractor groove cleaned up nicely too.

Gun does not fire and there is no marking on the primer to indicate light strike and the rounds from that gun fire in my PX4, so I know it's an issue iwth the gun.

 

When I manipulate the gun to depress the loaded chamber indicator and push the firing pin plunger the pin does not protrude into the chamber.  Also, when I look into the firing pin while pushed up in the condition I just described the pin does not appear to be smooth or polished.  

 

At least 5,000 rounds through the gun, most likely more than that.

Berettas have a shoulder on the firing pin which smacks into the inside of the breech if you dry fire without a snap cap. I've seen several broken firing pins (the tip breaks off in the channel) on older Berettas attributable to dry firing. IIRC the military manual for the M9 when it was introduced cautions against excessive dry firing.

 

Not sure what it says now but I don't dry fire Berettas as a rule.

Mt M9A1 says NOT to dry fire.. so i have caps for it.

It's been dry fired.

 

IN fact, since shooting the gun last my son had an extensive dry fire practice session.  No snap caps were used.

 

Will start using them again.  

Side note. Do NOT lube the firing pin channel.

 

Not to drift the thread too far, but does this concept apply to the 92/96, where the firing pin's movement results in metal-on-metal friction?

It's not like they are a waste of money or that expensive. But regardless if it's ok to dry fire or not, I always use snap caps when I can. I have them in every caliber I own. Why not just use them and be done with it?

 

 

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Why not just use them and be done with it?

 

 

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Laziness.

 

Can be a pita to pick them up but given that I don't like having a broken gun we are going to start using them if we do dry fire sessions.  

 

We still drop the hammer on empty chamber similar to what is required at USPSA or Steel to clear our guns before holstering when we are practing at the range but at home we'll start using them again.  

If ya got young kids, that's what they are for....

 

Laziness.

 

Can be a pita to pick them up but given that I don't like having a broken gun we are going to start using them if we do dry fire sessions.  

 

We still drop the hammer on empty chamber similar to what is required at USPSA or Steel to clear our guns before holstering when we are practing at the range but at home we'll start using them again.  

Not to drift the thread too far, but does this concept apply to the 92/96, where the firing pin's movement results in metal-on-metal friction?

You can wipe down the firing pin with lube and not have issues. If you squirt lube or pack grease around the firing pin that will bind it up.

 

Most gummed up firing pins are caused by improper cleaning. People take the slide turn it upside down, slop solvent on the interior of the slide, and then wipe it down. That dirty solvent washes gunk into the firing pin channel, accumulates over time, and gums up the firing pin. You need to clean out that dirty solvent with Gunscrubber and/or compressed air if available.

Like Griz said it all about how you maintain your firearm. No lube and a little friction is better then a gummed up channel. But if your OCD and clean the firing pin/channel its fine, the idea is to have a very very light coating, which is impossible to do with out disassembling it, so most people just leave it alone. The firing pin sits loose in the oversized channel so friction isn't a big deal. I've never lubed or cleaned any of my firing pins and have had zero issues, one day i'll probably have to clean them out, but if you start lubing them your going to have to clean it more frequently to remove the gunk the oil traps. From what i know, this applies to most firearms.

Thanks, great advice as always. I have been using small amounts of CLP and occasionally Powder Blast on the firing pins in my hammer fired guns, with no problems so far.

keep in mind the firing pin uses momentum to strike the primer. If you push the pin in from the hammer side, when its flush it shouldnt protrude on the other end. inertia will carry it that extra distance to hit the primer.