So I ordered a new dist. cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs (didnt come yet). Went to install them today and took everything apart. First mistake was I unclipped the AC compressor hose (the low side? with the red cap) and evacuated the entire compressor. After that screw up (which I'm not sure if its that big or not) I got the new cap, rotor and plug wires installed. I think I had the right firing order (1,5,3,6,2,4), but I went to turn the key and got the fuel pump started but the truck didn't. Turned key off, cycled it again but no pump, no start, nothing. Replaced the new stuff with the old stuff and same problem. No start, no electrical, nothing. 

Truck is a 1990 F150 Custom 4.9L 300 CID straight 6. 

Where did I go wrong?

check to see if fuel inertia switch needs to be reset, its located just above brake pedal

This might be helpful.

 

More often than I like to admit, I cross a wire or two when doing a tune up.  If I can help it, I'll just do one wire at a time.  If it's just two wires crossed it should run, although roughly.  Cross enough of them and it won't run.  To test for fueling issues, spray a very little bit of starting fluid into the intake.  If it wants to fire, suspect a fuel issue. If the engine is fuel injected, check for pressure at the test port on the rail.  You might have to remove some trim pieces to access it.  It will be a schraeder valve, like the valves on the wheels to adjust air pressure.  You should get some fuel push out with force, not just a little dribble.  If not check for a fuel pump fuse.  If that's good, check for power at the fuel pump.  

 

I'm a little confuse why you discharged the A/C system to change plugs though.

You have the right firing order, do you have it clockwise on the cap?   If you've got 2 transposed, most engines will run rough.   If you're way off you get nothing.

 

Make sure you're in the #1 position when the #1 cyclinder is at Top Dead Center.   Generally just bump the engine until the rotor points to 1 and the timing mark on the balancer is at 1.

Make sure you actually put the new rotor in the distributor.  I've seen on a few occasions where someone rushing neglected to put the new rotor in and the engine would not start.  Many hours of head scratching ensued.

 

I'm a little confuse why you discharged the A/C system to change plugs though.

 

AC discharge was on accident. I went to move the hose to get better access to the wire and ended up having it pop off and dump the compressor. I'm not to worried about not having AC, as it cuts out after I hit 45. My concern is that dumping the compressor caused something to go wrong and lead to my no start issue (unlikely I know, since the two components arent even next to each other, or related in any way). I have the worst possible luck so I just want to make sure I've taken everything into consideration that could have gone wrong.

 

Make sure you actually put the new rotor in the distributor.  I've seen on a few occasions where someone rushing neglected to put the new rotor in and the engine would not start.  Many hours of head scratching ensued.

I did make sure I put everything on right. Luckily Ford makes it super easy to put the rotor on, and I made sure to put the original rotor back on when I put the original parts back on. 

 

 

You have the right firing order, do you have it clockwise on the cap?   If you've got 2 transposed, most engines will run rough.   If you're way off you get nothing.

 

Make sure you're in the #1 position when the #1 cyclinder is at Top Dead Center.   Generally just bump the engine until the rotor points to 1 and the timing mark on the balancer is at 1.

I did not know this. I thought this had to be done when replacing the whole distributor, not the cap and rotor. As far as placing the wires on the right way, looking at the front of the truck and using the old cap as a guide I did (I think) put everything on the right way, but could have crossed a couple wires. If the whole order is messed up, will it kill the entire electrical system? 

 

Thanks for the help guys, my neighbor is a mechanic and when he gets home I'm gonna see if he can help me running these tests, and getting it fixed. Worst case, I've buggered the whole truck and I scrap it. Best case, I have a couple things crossed and it fires right up. 

 

ETA: This is the firing order diagram I used http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2013/10/06/21/17/pic-4947389171776134702.jpeg

Discharging the A/C had nothing to do with causing the no-start condition.  Also, a messed up firing order will not kill the electrical system.  The plugs will fire at the wrong time and the engine will not run.  When the firing order is corrected, the engine will (should) run properly.

 

I did not know this. I thought this had to be done when replacing the whole distributor, not the cap and rotor. As far as placing the wires on the right way, looking at the front of the truck and using the old cap as a guide I did (I think) put everything on the right way, but could have crossed a couple wires. If the whole order is messed up, will it kill the entire electrical system? 

 

Thanks for the help guys, my neighbor is a mechanic and when he gets home I'm gonna see if he can help me running these tests, and getting it fixed. Worst case, I've buggered the whole truck and I scrap it. Best case, I have a couple things crossed and it fires right up. 

 

ETA: This is the firing order diagram I used http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2013/10/06/21/17/pic-4947389171776134702.jpeg

 

You need to be sure the #1 wire is in the position the rotor is pointing at when the engine is at TDC.   This is why, when I've had trouble getting an engine started, I pull the cap, put the engine on TDC and see where  the rotor is pointed.   That should be where you put the #1 wire.

 

Ok, so checked the fuses, nothing blew. Couldn't find the inertia fuel switch tj was talking about, I'll have to look for that later. Looking at the cap, I have it in the right order as compared to the diagram. Now the rotor is pointing at the top of the bend where the wires are tied together. So that would be at about the #2 plug. How would I go about bumping it to top dead with no power?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just bump the engine over with the starter until the rotor lines up to where you want it.  You might have to put a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley and turn it by hand for the last little bit.

All right! So its fixed...and I'm just stupid. Turns out I didn't have my positive terminal tightened down enough...took it for a drive and its fine except for the original problem I was trying to fix. Truck sputters and shakes while driving. Nothing horrible, but noticeable. I'll work on it this weekend when I'm off again and see if it new plugs and wires are the answer or if its something a bit more complex. 

Oh, when you said "but I went to turn the key and got the fuel pump started but the truck didn't."

 

That suggests to me that it's turning over, but not starting.

 

You meant that it won't even crank over.   Heh, yeah, check the battery cable.

FWIW, the fuel pump shutoff switch someone mentioned is behind the passenger side kick panel.

 

What codes are you getting? If you are getting a check engine light, you can check your codes by jumping a wire and watching the light blink in sequence. It is a little block underneath the hood on the corner closest to the drivers seat. I think it says EEC TEST. Google it if need be. 

 

Assuming you are getting proper ignition (which you likely are), it sounds as if you have a fuel delivery issue. If you have two tanks, try the other. Replace the fuel filter. You don't have mass air flow and you have a minimal amount of sensors to go wrong. These things are stupid simple and the 300 six is one of the best truck engines ever made. You're fine. 

 

Edit: Also, I don't know if someone messed with your distributor, but making sure it is timed right is always something that is overlooked.

Could be fuel delivery. I had the front tank closed off a couple months ago because of a blown sending unit. Kept over filling the tank and leaking our around the filler neck and off the frame rail. Getting that fixed is on my short list of repairs, but at 300 dollars its close to the bottom. Also rear tank pump and fuel filter on the frame were replaced in December. 

 

No check engine light either. 

I'm not sure how your front tank was deactivated but there is a proper way of doing it and about a dozen rigged ways probably. If you google "Steve83" he has a supermotors account with a wealth of knowledge.

 

How was your front tank overfilling? Overfilling at the gas pump? Was your rear tank filling into your front? If you weren't overfilling at the gas pump, then there are likely some issues with the two-tank setup. 

 

 

Also, since you want to fix the tank anyway, I bought a new gas tank and locking ring for $60 online and did it myself. Sending unit was either $30 aftermarket on ebay or $130 motorcraft but I chose to reuse my old one. I also reused the pump. 

Fuel filter set-up on it clogged?

So I got everything installed earlier today. And put a new ignition coil in it to boot. The truck runs so much smoother now than before. There's still a little shake to it, but the truck is 25 years old, so I'm not as worried about it as I was. Drove it around town and took a trip to walmart, and it runs along just fine! Like I said, little shake but very little stutter and almost no hesitation.

 

I'll eventually get around to fixing the front tank, replacing a chunk of exhaust, and repairing the door (spots of rust and cracks in the paint).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

could be timing

If the trucks 25 years old I would look at all the rubber vacuum  hoses.

So I ordered a new dist. cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs (didnt come yet). Went to install them today and took everything apart. First mistake was I unclipped the AC compressor hose (the low side? with the red cap) and evacuated the entire compressor. After that screw up (which I'm not sure if its that big or not) I got the new cap, rotor and plug wires installed. I think I had the right firing order (1,5,3,6,2,4), but I went to turn the key and got the fuel pump started but the truck didn't. Turned key off, cycled it again but no pump, no start, nothing. Replaced the new stuff with the old stuff and same problem. No start, no electrical, nothing. 

 

Truck is a 1990 F150 Custom 4.9L 300 CID straight 6. 

 

Where did I go wrong?

if you're not hearing the fuel pump running, check the inertia switch. it should either be in the passengers side kick panel, or up under the driver side firewall, left of the clutch pedal. if it's not tripped, punch it so it trips, then push the red button down to reset it. if still no start, then check fuses. if all fuses are good, then check both your eec and fuel pump relays.

if you're not hearing the fuel pump running, check the inertia switch. it should either be in the passengers side kick panel, or up under the driver side firewall, left of the clutch pedal. if it's not tripped, punch it so it trips, then push the red button down to reset it. if still no start, then check fuses. if all fuses are good, then check both your eec and fuel pump relays.

Already fixed. Positive terminal cable wasn't tightened down enough to make contact.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Already fixed. Positive terminal cable wasn't tightened down enough to make contact.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yea. i shoulda read down before hitting the quote button, lolol