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Dillon swage die adjustment

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This is bugging the everloving crap out of me but my swaging die on my 1050 is "missing" some primer pockets while removing the crimps in most others without issue.  Do I need to sort my brass by headstamp and adjust the swaging die for each headstamp?  Please say no, please say no, please say no...

Geez, I hope not too. I hope somebody has an easy answer for you. I have a 550B and use the Super Swage. It is much more manually intensive, but has not skipped a beat. Good luck!

Super_Swage_600_m.jpg

Disclaimer: I don't use the Dillon bench mounted swager (because I don't own one)

I use the RCBS swager in my single stage Rock Chucker on the folding Workmate in my apartment

 

Yes, you should separate (by headstamp) your crimped brass prior to swaging.

The thickness of the web and depth of the primer pocket varies by manufacturer.

An adjustment between different brass headstamps is recommended in the RCBS swager paperwork.

 

Sorry for the bad news, bears.

This may work but also may not work.

 

Like joni said there's a variation in brass in the web/extractor groove area.

 

Tighten up your shell plate as much as possible (so it still turns and lube well) and this may account for most brass variations.

  • 2 weeks later...

NO! :)

 

It would be faster to explain it to you over the phone, let me know if you still need help.

The best answer is always "call the manufacturer and let them walk you through it." I haven't had any issue with my 1050. The "expander" die that holds the case/shellplate down should prevent the movement that would cause problems. The only reason I can see for problems is that you don't have the swage rod going deep enough it the case. Cut a case so you can see the primer pocket and how hight the swaged rod is going into the case and adjust the swaged rod as needed.

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