This is an informational post for J-Frame owners.

 

I just installed the Apex Tactical Duty/Carry Spring kit in my S&W 442. The total time to install took about 15min, and that was going slow. 1st time I ever took apart a revolver. Required skill level is minimal. Any DIY'er should have no problem. I measured the trigger pull on my Lyman digital scale. Trigger pull before was OVER 12lbs (the scale only goes up to 12lbs and couldn't measure it). Trigger pull after is 9lbs. 9lbs is exactly what the manufacture claims, and that's what I got. Very noticeable real world difference in the pull. Smoothness of pull did not change.

 

Well worth the $30.

 

 

Make sure that you test fire it with a variety of ammunition (some primers are harder than others) to make sure that you get positive ignition, as one of the springs changed was the main spring.

Make sure that you test fire it with a variety of ammunition (some primers are harder than others) to make sure that you get positive ignition, as one of the springs changed was the main spring.

Will do. A new (longer) firing pin comes with the kit to (supposedly) prevent that from happening.

Hmm.  This is interesting.  Seems like this would be a very good thing to install on my 640 (assume it works with a mid-90's 38 spl version?).  Pull is, as diamond said, over 12 lbs, and if this really does drop it by 3+ lbs, i may just have to get myself one of these.  However, I have never done any kind of work on a revolver before. 

Hmm.  This is interesting.  Seems like this would be a very good thing to install on my 640 (assume it works with a mid-90's 38 spl version?).  Pull is, as diamond said, over 12 lbs, and if this really does drop it by 3+ lbs, i may just have to get myself one of these.  However, I have never done any kind of work on a revolver before. 

 

I believe that the 640/642 etc. (all internal hammer J-frames) didn't change to the floating firing pin until 1996. If you gun was made prior to that, you could still install the main and rebound springs and simply not use the firing pin and spring that comes with the kit. But if the kit relies on the extended firing pin to be 100% reliable, you will loose that reliability by having to stay with the stock, hammer mounted, firing pin. Might be fine - might not.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Definitely Pre-1996.  Wife purchased it in mid 1995 and it was not new (was before i knew her).  Now I'll have to give some thought as to whether or not this will work.  Are you saying that I would NOT be able to use the extended firing pin?  (I am not well versed on revolver fixes, and you are, well, the guru!)

Definitely Pre-1996. Wife purchased it in mid 1995 and it was not new (was before i knew her). Now I'll have to give some thought as to whether or not this will work. Are you saying that I would NOT be able to use the extended firing pin? (I am not well versed on revolver fixes, and you are, well, the guru!)

Your gun has a firing pin attached to the hammer. Newer guns have a more complex arrangement where the firing pin is actually inside the gun and there is a mechanical device that prevents it from being activated by the hammer unless the trigger is being pulled. It is effectively a drop safety.

Your gun has a firing pin attached to the hammer. Newer guns have a more complex arrangement where the firing pin is actually inside the gun and there is a mechanical device that prevents it from being activated by the hammer unless the trigger is being pulled. It is effectively a drop safety.

 

Close. Whether the FP is the frame mounted floating type, or the fixed mounted to the hammer nose type, there has been a hammer block on all Smiths D/A revolvers since the mid-40's.

 

@DSD1026 - the firing pin included in the kit is the frame-mounted floating type, so, no you would not be able to utilize it with your gun. The two springs would do much to lessen the pull, the question is, will you get reliable ignition. My answer: Probably - but I wouldn't bet my life on probably, especially when I only have 5 rounds to begin with. Thanks for the compliment.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Close. Whether the FP is the frame mounted floating type, or the fixed mounted to the hammer nose type, there has been a hammer block on all Smiths D/A revolvers since the mid-40's.

 

@DSD1026 - the firing pin included in the kit is the frame-mounted floating type, so, no you would not be able to utilize it with your gun. The two springs would do much to lessen the pull, the question is, will you get reliable ignition. My answer: Probably - but I wouldn't bet my life on probably, especially when I only have 5 rounds to begin with. Thanks for the compliment.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Thanks for the education Bob. I made the incorrect assumption that the hammer block came about with the hammer block.

 

 

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If your 640 has the firing pin on the hammer there is no need for you to purchase the $30 Apex kit for it. You could purchase the Wilson combat kit for $9 and get the same results. The Wilson Combat kit is springs only, no firing pin upgrade.

 

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Custom-Tune-Spring-Kit-SW-J-Frame/productinfo/321/

 

Just an FYI. I have read tons of reviews on the Apex and Wilson kits. They both achieve a 9lb trigger pull. And they both are reliable. I cant seem to find any negative reviews where the user is expierencing light strikes, with or without and upgraded firing pin. In my own opinion, the 9lb pull is much nicer than the 12-14lb pull. But it is far from being "light". It still requires a good amount of force to pull that trigger and the audible and felt strike of the hammer is still fast and hard. I really have no doubt that this trigger kit will ignite even the hardest primers.

 

 

 

Apex Tactical provides how to videos on installing the spring kit.

 

Disassembly:

 

 

Assembly:

 

I was incorrect in my statement about the new firing pin being longer. It is actually shorter to allow it to accelerate more. Here is the description right from Apex Tactical's website:

"What it does:

The Apex XP ignition kit consists of the firing pin (17-4 heat treated stainless steel) and a reduced power firing pin return spring. Recommended for concealed carry/off duty/backup revolvers to reduce the probability of light strikes.

Parts included: 2 Pieces
1.XP Firing Pin
2.Reduced power firing pin return spring (light)


Specifications:

Overall length is .495" to allow for the firing pin to accelerate before striking the primer."

Update:

 

Went to the range today and fired 100rds of American Eagle 130gr FMJ. No light strike issues. Trigger is definitely better but I still can't hit shit with it.

Trigger is definitely better but I still can't hit shit with it.

Best suggestion I could make is actually the Crimson Trace laser grips...

 

Dry fire practice, and just watch that dot jump as you pull the trigger. Do it enough so the movement isn't as drastic... CONSISTENTLY! Also, do it at further ranges, like 20 yards, if possible. You'll be surprised at the amount of movement there is.

 

Save your ammo and once you have the trigger pull down, then practice at the range hot.

Update:

 

Went to the range today and fired 100rds of American Eagle 130gr FMJ. No light strike issues. Trigger is definitely better but I still can't hit shit with it.

 

I think a laser is a better option once you have mastered shooting a firearm. Without that mastery, it can turn into a crutch. My recommendation to you would be to buy a pack of A-Zoom snap caps (they are metal and last a long time). Then proceed to dry fire the hell out of the thing. That alone will help with the muscle memory part and build up finger strength (muscle fatigue can be a part of inconsistency). The second thing to do it to balance a dime on top of the barrel near the front sight.  Practice single action trigger pulls and try to be steady enough that the dime doesn't fall. When you have them down good, move on to double action trigger pulls. When you can perform double action trigger pulls on your revolver and have the dime not fall off, you know that you are steady.

Guys. This is a thread about the apex trigger job kit. The part about me not hitting anything was a joke. I was just reporting on possible light strike issues. I know what I need to do if I really need to be accurate with this gun, but thanks for the advice. And I'm not a fan of lasers.

Guys. This is a thread about the apex trigger job kit. The part about me not hitting anything was a joke. I was just reporting on possible light strike issues. I know what I need to do if I really need to be accurate with this gun, but thanks for the advice. And I'm not a fan of lasers.

Oops. That's what i get for only looking at last few posts. Enjoy your smooth shooting revoler!

Oops. That's what i get for only looking at last few posts. Enjoy your smooth shooting revoler!

Thanks for posting, very informative.  As a result of the post I looked into the kit a little further and just purchased it for my S&W 642.  As you know the factory setup could definitely use some help. 

Guys. This is a thread about the apex trigger job kit. The part about me not hitting anything was a joke. I was just reporting on possible light strike issues. I know what I need to do if I really need to be accurate with this gun, but thanks for the advice. And I'm not a fan of lasers.

Sorry for trying to help...

Just wanted to update on the Apex kit install. I now have 500rds of various ammo thru the 442 with 100rds being Speer GD 125gr +p. I am happy to report no light strikes or malfunctions of any kind.  

If anyone is interested, I have a spare unopened Apex J-Frame kit.