so I am a semi noob to reloading and reload for 38 special and 3006 for my grand and 1903a3. I have just picked up a kimber 8400 advanced tactical and want to get more precise loads development for it. It is advertised as a match chamber. First what does that mean just tighter to spec? Next I know neck sizeing is the way to go for fire formed brass but with a match chamber would full size work as well since it should not expand much at all in a match chamber? I am trying to get well below moa with this rifle at 100 to 300 yards since it's kind of built for that with a good scope . I get 1.5 -2" group with my old battle rifles and would expect more from this. Any help or in site would be appreciated .

PM sent

 

too long for a post

This may be included in what Frank has sent you via PM, but I'll throw it out here.

 

You can back-off your full length sizing die by the smallest of margins, and, in effect, have a neck-size only die.

 

You didn't state the caliber of your Kimber - is it also a .30-06?

 

Are you using standard FL dies in loading for the Garand? Some require small-base dies, if yours has been working fine as is - let well enough alone.

 

Concentricity of the finished round is important for optimum accuracy. Collet type seating dies and outside neck turning help in this regard. You should also chamfer the flash holes of your brass. Separate by headstamp and trim to uniform length.

 

OK, that's all I've got.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Bob,

Unfortunately I got a new caliber it's 308. At least I can use some of the same bullets as my garand and o3. In the garand I FL size the brass and try to match them up for consistent mesure. And the 03 I fire formed the brass trim,neck size and match the brass. Any idea on the "match chamber"

Any idea on the "match chamber"

 

I would assume that the chamber & finish reaming is held to tighter tolerances for better concentricity and depth. Where a standard chamber may have specs of + or - .0005" and match chamber may be + or - .0002" (just pulling numbers out of the air for illustrative purposes).

This may be included in what Frank has sent you via PM, but I'll throw it out here.

 

You can back-off your full length sizing die by the smallest of margins, and, in effect, have a neck-size only die.

 

You didn't state the caliber of your Kimber - is it also a .30-06?

 

Are you using standard FL dies in loading for the Garand? Some require small-base dies, if yours has been working fine as is - let well enough alone.

 

Concentricity of the finished round is important for optimum accuracy. Collet type seating dies and outside neck turning help in this regard. You should also chamfer the flash holes of your brass. Separate by headstamp and trim to uniform length.

 

OK, that's all I've got.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

 

You guys are sucking me right into this and I didn't want to do this....

 

You can back-off your full length sizing die by the smallest of margins, and, in effect, have a neck-size only die.

 

Yes, this is the shade tree way of doing it but you spent good money on that rifle so get a set of Reading bushing dies

 

Concentricity of the finished round is important for optimum accuracy. Collet type seating dies and outside neck turning help in this regard. You should also chamfer the flash holes of your brass. Separate by headstamp and trim to uniform length.

 

Try and stay away from neck turning if you can.  Buy some good Lapua brass(some places have it on sale now)   Forget the primer pockets if they look good. If you buy "308 Palma brass" they take small rifle primers an work nice for a consistent burn.

 

NO MORE TIPS ON THE WEB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Reading neck sizing bushing dies, one full size die if you need to bump back the shoulder after 5-6 firings, a GOOD bullet sitting die, preferably one of the micrometer ones like Redding or Forsters, and don't crimp it. 

 

Also read every damn thing on the Internet because there is a lot of information available on precision reloading and I've found that it is all somewhat wrong and all somewhat right, because everyone assumes that because something works for them it is universally applicable.  Take all the information, try it out, and find what works for you and your rifle. 

Reading neck sizing bushing dies, one full size die if you need to bump back the shoulder after 5-6 firings, a GOOD bullet sitting die, preferably one of the micrometer ones like Redding or Forsters, and don't crimp it. 

 

Also read every damn thing on the Internet because there is a lot of information available on precision reloading and I've found that it is all somewhat wrong and all somewhat right, because everyone assumes that because something works for them it is universally applicable.  Take all the information, try it out, and find what works for you and your rifle. 

 

Vlad you are very much in the ball park.  Right,  you have to work with you individual rifle and components.  You have to do ladders for charge and length, you have to read your cases. He has to go buy a chrono so he can do velocity ladders.

 

To much stuff for a thread, that's why they write books.

 

Tony Tubbs has some good stuff out there but I take his stuff with a grain of salt because he has a business he has to support.

 

Seriously, and Vlad you have an idea of the ends I take development to, It takes me at least six range sessions and 2-4 weeks to get a load shooting <1/2".

I get completely nuts with my 308 brass.  Ever heard the saying "theres more than one way to skin a cat"?  Just change it to "theres more than one way to load a 308".  You will find tons of information that contradict other tons of information.  Wait til you get to the part about annealing....

Whats most important is that you use safe reloading practices.  Ive found twice the  accuracy improvement in bullet choice and precise charge measuring than I have in brass prep. 

Ken

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/935667/redding-premium-series-deluxe-3-die-set-308-winchester?cm_vc=ProductFinding is this a good set?

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/935667/redding-premium-series-deluxe-3-die-set-308-winchester?cm_vc=ProductFinding is this a good set?

 

I use these in 243Win....http://www.midwayusa.com/product/271533/redding-type-s-match-bushing-2-die-set-308-winchester?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

They require you buy a specific diameter bushing as well.

 

You've got me doing it again.....

 

It minimum full length sizes and just sizes the neck.

 

I remove the expander button. Clean the inside of the neck with a brush and size.

 

BTW I never tumble my brass.  Clean each case with alcohol before and after lubing.  Clean the inside of the neck with a bore brush.

 

Size the bushing by measuring bullet and case mouth wall.  Calculate desired neck tension.

You can just do the neck with this die?

You can just do the neck with this die?

 

The key is, it minimum FL sizes the case. So if you have a minimum(match chamber) it does little more than supports the case.

and the resizing bushing floats and allows the neck to be aligned to the case like your chamber is.

 

Case longevity depends on working the case as little as possible.

 

I only have 100 cases 50 never fired I shoot the same cases over again so far about have about 6 firings on the cases for this rifle.

 

At some point may have to anneal, which is not a big deal. BTW I've never had to trim a case.

Never had to trim a case. Wow. Thats wild hows that I mean dont doubt you. But whats the trick with sizing and not stressing the case. Is it something about with age comes wisdom. If so im not old enough. Seriously Tips appreciated.

The trick is premium brass. I shoot Lapua and minimum stressing of the case. Now I have 5 or 6 loadings and I'm fine When I see the cases getting to Max. Maybe at 8 or 10. I'll have them reannealed trim to min put them aside and shoot new cases. This rifle is used for matches and some fun so it only gets 200-300 rds a yr.

 

 

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