I'm in the process of acquiring parts for my AR build. While I'm still a ways away, I've seen some holiday sales that may make it worth it to get the ammo now.

 

From my preliminary research I'm under a few beliefs. 1: Since I'm going with a 5.56 barrel I can shoot 5.56 and/or 223. 2: Tracer rounds are a no-go. 3: The future legality of green tip ammo (from what I can gather green tip = armor piercing) is still up in the air. Anything else I should be aware of before I jump on one of these sales?

 

Thanks

Kevin

1. You are correct, 5.56 barrel can shoot both 5.56 and .223. .223 barrel cannot shoot a 5.56 round.

2. From what I've read on this site and other forums, tracer rounds are illegal in NJ. I could not locate specifics about this though.

3. Green tip ammo is 100% legal right now so you can buy as much as you desire. The scare we had not too long ago was to ban the sale of such ammo, not incriminate the posession of green tip.

 

Poeple will tell you to stay away from steel cased ammo. It's dirty, will make your rifle jam, it's garbage because it wears out your extractor and messes up your barrel. Also, leet operators don't use it. I buy and shoot it all the time because it's cheaper than brass. My AR's like it, so I shoot it. I'll admit though, maybe 98% of my rifle ammo stashed in the safe is brass.

Pretty fair assessment. 855 ammo is OK and by the government's own definition is NOT armor piercing. However, the ATF has already tried to change that once and was met with fierce opposition. I'd say you'd be safe purchasing some - once you have it, I sincerely doubt any ruling would be retroactive. Personally I think there is better ammo out there, accuracy wise. I think the steel penetrater introduces some yaw not present in non-penetrater ammo. JMO.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

1. You are correct, 5.56 barrel can shoot both 5.56 and .223. .223 barrel cannot shoot a 5.56 round.

 

Welllllllll..... .223 Remington chambered barrels CAN potentially shoot 5.56 but it could be dangerous.  You should not shoot 5.56 in a .223 chambered barrel because of potential over-pressure issues, but it's most likely ok.

 

Good article about it:

http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/5-56-vs-223/

 

Since you're new to ARs - keep an eye out for the barrel specs - especially the twist rate.  

Thanks, I'm greatly leaning towards a BCM 1:7 twist. From all I read, that or a 1:8 seemed to fit my needs the best. Please don't ask me exactly why, because I'd have to read everything all over again.

 

I'm not looking for AP ammo specifically, just want to make sure I'm OK to go with it if that's what I find.

 

If there's a major price savings with 223, I may try it out, otherwise I'll stick with 5.56, no reason to go looking for problems, but I like the optional flexibility. Same with steel or brass.

If you are building an AR make sure you buy in-spec ammo.

 

It sucks trying to track down an issue with a newly built rifle, spending money in parts, only to have it turn out to be an ammo issue.

 

I won't use steel cases ammo in my guns. I have had - and seen - nothing but issues.

 

People have $2k wrapped up in their ARs. Then they pay $700 for a 3 day carbine course, plus travel and hotel expenses. Then they buy steel cased ammo so they can save $80 per 1K rounds and can't finish their class since their rifle chokes on the ammo - ultimately wasting their time and money. Not to mention wasting the time of everyone else in the class as they try to sort out their issues.

 

Lowest cost is rarely best value.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge, but could you define "in-spec" ammo please? Do you mean matching caliber (5.56 not 223 in a 5.56) or something else?

 

I typically go with "popular" ammo. I run American Eagle for my 9mm and CCI in my 22s.

 

$60-80 on 1000 rounds is not likely to sway me. $80 on 500 rounds would be more tempting.

I have found 223 to be easier to find and there is no reason to worry about shooting 223 out of a 556. Theoretically you could lose a tiny bit of accuracy with 223 due to the bigger jump of the projectile to the barrel but if you are that good that you can have that be a factor, maybe you need 223 Wylde which will also shoot both 223 and 556 with no issues. Read up a bit more before worrying about it. 

I would stick to brass cased ammo.  HE was referring to the what I call 'oddball' imported ammo where the case is steel and coated with different lubricity agents such as polymer, lacquer, and such.  One learns over time what is good and what is crap.  If imported, brass case, boxer primed, non corrosive primers, clean burning powder, and a decent bullet are key.   

Sorry for my lack of knowledge, but could you define "in-spec" ammo please? Do you mean matching caliber (5.56 not 223 in a 5.56) or something else?

 

 

 

I think he means the bullets themselves - the bullet weight (Grains).  Different twist rates can stabilize different weights.

Nope. Don't really care about bullet weight. Possible key-holing may frustrate you regarding accuracy but it won't effect the function of the rifle.

 

T Bill covered the spirit of my post.

 

I probably should have said quality ammo from a well known and respected manufacturer that is known to run reliably instead of simply in-spec.

Thank you all.

Just to throw two more pennies in...

 

Since you are building vs buying an already assembled upper, I might suggest a stainless, cut rifled barrel with a Wylde chamber and 1:8 twist. 

 

I've always like the 8 twist due to most 223/5.56 factory ammo being in the 50 gr to 77 gr range.  The majority of factory ammo being sold, anyway.  As Krdshrk's chart illustrates, the 8 twist covers those bullet weights real well.  If you're not reloading or don't have special needs i.e. benchrest shooting, using long 80gr bullets, etc, then this might work best.

 

The Wylde chamber will work for both 5.56 or 223.  As someone mentioned, you might get a tiny bit of accuracy loss, shooting 223, cuz there is a larger bullet jump to the rifle lands, but unless you are building a competition rifle, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

The cut rifled barrels tend to be more accurate than a chrome lined barrel.  For me, that is my preference (cut rifled).

 

Lastly, make sure your barrel extension has the "M4 feed ramps".  These are deeper feed ramps that are cut into the barrel extension that helps facilitate smooth ammo feeds.

 

 

Eric >ok, three pennies

Just to throw two more pennies in...

 

Since you are building vs buying an already assembled upper, I might suggest a stainless, cut rifled barrel with a Wylde chamber and 1:8 twist.

 

I've always like the 8 twist due to most 223/5.56 factory ammo being in the 50 gr to 77 gr range. The majority of factory ammo being sold, anyway. As Krdshrk's chart illustrates, the 8 twist covers those bullet weights real well. If you're not reloading or don't have special needs i.e. benchrest shooting, using long 80gr bullets, etc, then this might work best.

 

The Wylde chamber will work for both 5.56 or 223. As someone mentioned, you might get a tiny bit of accuracy loss, shooting 223, cuz there is a larger bullet jump to the rifle lands, but unless you are building a competition rifle, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

The cut rifled barrels tend to be more accurate than a chrome lined barrel. For me, that is my preference (cut rifled).

 

Lastly, make sure your barrel extension has the "M4 feed ramps". These are deeper feed ramps that are cut into the barrel extension that helps facilitate smooth ammo feeds.

 

 

Eric >ok, three pennies

I +100 everything he's said. the only reason u chose my colt gov. Profile barrel was because Ingot it in such a good deal.

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

 

A chrome lined barrel and chamber is more resistant to corrosion. It also extends the life of the barrel. The tradeoff is it's less accurate, but it's one I'm okay with. I have a 1/7" barrel, but I'd prefer a 1/8" to be able to use a greater variety of different weight bullets.

A chrome lined barrel and chamber is more resistant to corrosion. It also extends the life of the barrel. The tradeoff is it's less accurate, but it's one I'm okay with. I have a 1/7" barrel, but I'd prefer a 1/8" to be able to use a greater variety of different weight bullets.

More corrosion resistant than stainless steel??

 

 

Eric

Chrome is harder than Stainless.  Stainless is durable but "soft" so to speak.  

Chrome is harder than Stainless. Stainless is durable but "soft" so to speak.

Agreed, T. A somewhat shorter barrel life is the only drawback.

 

 

Eric