I am getting a new safe that will have a hole pre-drilled for a power cord (for lights and a dehumidifier rod). Is there anything special that should be used to help seal the hole around the wire to help maintain the safes fire rating?

The hole will be on the bottom -- shouldn't effect your fire rating at all

 

If you are that concerned you could get Firestop at your local home improvement store -- it's in a caulk tube and used to seal holes in structures where wire or pipes travel from 1 floor to another to slow the spread of fire

 

Where is your safe going to be? 1st floor, second floor, Basement?  On a wooden floor or on a concrete slab?

 

On a concrete slab I wouldn't worry about it at all --

 

The water damage will probably be worse anyway -- as the safe falls thru the 1st floor into the basement which is filled with water from the fire dept putting out the fire -- then the safe sits there for weeks

 

There just guns,  they are replaceable

There are no UL fire rated gun safes under about $5K, and probably not many purpose built that actually exist. Gun safe fire ratings are a wing and a prayer quack nonsense. It may help, but don't bet on it. I buy some of them, too, but I know the protection is marginal at best. The "rating" is BS.

The hole will be on the bottom -- shouldn't effect your fire rating at all

 

If you are that concerned you could get Firestop at your local home improvement store -- it's in a caulk tube and used to seal holes in structures where wire or pipes travel from 1 floor to another to slow the spread of fire

 

Where is your safe going to be? 1st floor, second floor, Basement?  On a wooden floor or on a concrete slab?

 

On a concrete slab I wouldn't worry about it at all --

 

The water damage will probably be worse anyway -- as the safe falls thru the 1st floor into the basement which is filled with water from the fire dept putting out the fire -- then the safe sits there for weeks

 

There just guns,  they are replaceable

 

The safe will be in the basement on a wood floor which is cemented to the concrete floor. It is in a small alcove so it is surrounded on almost 3 sides by drywall over concrete block.

 

I found a fireblock caulk on Amazon which seems like exactly what I need. Thanks for the info.

 

"NSi Fireblock136 fire-blocking caulk is a single component, non-combustible material for residential applications. Colored red for easy inspection, fireblock136 creates an effective barrier against flames, smoke, and toxic gasses and has superior adhesion and gunnability. Fireblock136 is for use in annular spaces around wires, pipes, ducts, vents and other penetrating items at ceiling and floor openings; and room to room in wood and steel frame constructions. It restores the integrity of fireblocks in one and two family construction. Exceeds A5TM-E136 standards for fireblocking residential requirements prescribed by all major-model building codes, and also meets or exceeds requirements of UBC, BOCA, SBC, IRC, NYS and MA codes. Meets UL 1479/ ASTM-E136 standards. 10.3-ounces caulk tube. Non-combustible for residential applications."

Just remember the two greatest dangers to your firearms are rust and politicians.

 

Keep that in mind

Great Stuff makes a fireblocking expanding foam also, might be a little easier to apply. It's not the regular Great Stuff but I found it at the big box stores when I needed it to finish my basement.

Great Stuff makes a fireblocking expanding foam also, might be a little easier to apply. It's not the regular Great Stuff but I found it at the big box stores when I needed it to finish my basement.

When I researched this issue a few years ago I got the impression that that the Great Stuff fireblock foam was just regular Great Stuff that was dyed a bright color so that it was easy for building inspectors to confirm that the penetrations were fireblocked.

Huh, I hadn't heard that. The MSDS between regular vs fireblock do look mostly the same, although with different percentages. There are a few additions/deletions that someone that took more chemistry classes than I did could say if they are important.

Any lumberyard will have fire sealant in a caulking tube. It swells up and fills the void when it gets hot. It's used to seal penetrations around pipe or electrical conduit in fire partition walls.

But I don't think that's what you need. Fire won't jump into your safe through a small opening and if your house is so engulfed in flame that the floor under the safe is ablaze, I don't think your guns are going to fair well, sealant or no sealant.

I'm assuming the opening will be some standardized size for electrical hardware? If so, an electrical strain relief connector will work.

 

A little plumbers/electrial putty will do the trick.  Nothing is going to survive a full on house fire, number one.  Number two, odds of it happening are very low.  You have more important things to worry about in life.  Insure them and more on.  NRA has basic insurance in membership and additional for a nominal fee.  Other than that bury them in the back yard.

The fire caulk you linked to is a residential fire caulk. I'd recommend this instead.

 

http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable-Management/Fire-Stop/3M-Firestop-Putty?gclid=CJGkp92NlMoCFQEuHwod74AMMw

The fire caulk you linked to is a residential fire caulk. I'd recommend this instead.

 

http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable-Management/Fire-Stop/3M-Firestop-Putty?gclid=CJGkp92NlMoCFQEuHwod74AMMw

 

Does this stay flexible over time and what are its advantage over the fire caulk?

Does this stay flexible over time and what are its advantage over the fire caulk?

 

No idea - I would have to read the application instructions.  Generally, commercial fire caulks are designed to expand in fire situations to ensure that they continue to seal the opening preventing the entrance of fire for a specific period of time.

I use the 3M fire caulk in a tube for work all the time. (Plumbing) code requires us to seal all penetrations between floors.

Fire moves by draft. Deer slayer 's fire caulk if non combustible, and prevents air draft

There are no UL fire rated gun safes under about $5K, and probably not many purpose built that actually exist. Gun safe fire ratings are a wing and a prayer quack nonsense. It may help, but don't bet on it. I buy some of them, too, but I know the protection is marginal at best. The "rating" is BS.

Sienfield( sp?)

"You only have so much voice"

Then the series was over