I have a two foot bump overhang of second floor over first floor. There is "soffit" siding that is the underside of it for aesthetic reasons I supoose. I want to pull down that soffit and spray foam that overhang there is virtually nothing keeping the cold from entering hiuse via the overhang. I've spent a long time figuring out how I can get those sofdit pieces off without mangling my siding. If you know anything about siding there is a science to the order you install things and special skill (bending trim and aluninim etc)

Yes i could just yank it down and smush it back up but I've seen one Neigbor do his and it looks awful the reassembly. I'm extremely handy and will do the soray foam myself. I just want an expert to button it all back up for me

So I'm lookimg for a guy who has that know how to get some quick cash. PM me if you got any recommendations. I'm zero for 3 calling siding guys out of the blue they said it's not wirrh their time.

 

This Over hang has nothing to do with roof venting at all. If i had known the insulatiom in that area was gonna be so poor i wouldnr have even opted for an overhang. I'm surprised my toilet never froze the toilet is partiallly in that bump overhang area.

I might know a thing or two, will pm this eve.

For what it's worth, have you considered just putting up clear plywood sheeting and painting to match?   You could drop in a few high-hats while you're at it for exterior lighting if you don't have it already.

 

Also, be sure that you only use closed cell foam, open cell shouldn't be used for exterior applications.    The foam will generally only expand about 2 inches, then fill the remaining void with fiberglass.  Flash and batt will get you a good vapor seal and R-value.

Shingles N Things out of Wayne...if I can't do it myself, they're the only ones I let near my house to do work. Tell them Joe and Greta from Lincoln Park referred you.

 

Phone:(862) 248-2104 

For what it's worth, have you considered just putting up clear plywood sheeting and painting to match? You could drop in a few high-hats while you're at it for exterior lighting if you don't have it already.

 

Also, be sure that you only use closed cell foam, open cell shouldn't be used for exterior applications. The foam will generally only expand about 2 inches, then fill the remaining void with fiberglass. Flash and batt will get you a good vapor seal and R-value.

My first thiught was just plywood like you suggest. If I do that with say 1/2 inch plywood I am still stuck with 1/2 inch bulging proud of the siding underneath. I'd want it trimmed out look nice somehow. I feel Ike the edge would be exposed to weather on the edge

My first thiught was just plywood like you suggest. If I do that with say 1/2 inch plywood I am still stuck with 1/2 inch bulging proud of the siding underneath. I'd want it trimmed out look nice somehow. I feel Ike the edge would be exposed to weather on the edge

 

You'd want to use 3/16 plywood and just put up some flashing. I'd have to see it to understand your issues.   For what it's worth, I have a 3 foot cantilever and initially the contractor was only going to put batts in and I paid extra to get weather seal to spray the overhang before adding in the batts.  There is zero cold air infiltration and the floor there isn't any colder than the rest of the house. My entire roof is done that way as well.

Cut the soffit in the middle. Yank the 2 pieces separate. Mangle reduction.

And the west coast of FL.

Cut the soffit in the middle. Yank the 2 pieces separate. Mangle reduction.

Holy shit I never thought about that. If indeed they are all just slid in piece by piece on the "track" piece of trim (that's the one I'm worried about bending if I YANK the sofit squares down). Then really I'm just sacrificing one to be able to slide/rotate other ones out. I will post a pic.

 

http://interior.kichikennel.com/soffit-lighting/exterior-soffit-lighting-led/

 

Okay so mine looks very similar to that. You see how the sofit pieces are held up by the trim on both sides? There is no way I can yank that down without me mangling the trim pieces. My trim is rigid aluminum, not vinyl. I swear I looked at the ends of each side and I can't find where he ended the run so I can undo the jigsaw puzzle. Hence I need someone who knows the trick. When I put it back together I want it looking not like it was tampered. (I'd stare at it from the deck all day)

Cut every piece.

Break eggs to make omelettes

On the topic of siding I'm getting mine done soon. Not sure which thickness to get. The medium .043 or the heavy duty .045. Anyone have any info on that?

On the topic of siding I'm getting mine done soon. Not sure which thickness to get. The medium .043 or the heavy duty .045. Anyone have any info on that?

Its all about the workmanship. Shoddy work can ruin the best of products just as good will make lesser products look just fine. Not that thinner is a lesser product, a thin product with more profile/bends in it will be stiffer than a thicker pc that is flat.The only dif it makes is to the worker cutting with his snips. Get what makes you comfortable so theres no regrets.

Its all about the workmanship. Shoddy work can ruin the best of products just as good will make lesser products look just fine. Not that thinner is a lesser product, a thin product with more profile/bends in it will be stiffer than a thicker pc that is flat.The only dif it makes is to the worker cutting with his snips. Get what makes you comfortable so theres no regrets.

thanks,

im using a very reputable company to do the work. the salesman basically said the same thing didnt push the heavy but said its just a little sturdier and gave the price on both. i might go with the heavy just because theres not that much of a price difference in the end but not sure yet.

On the topic of siding I'm getting mine done soon. Not sure which thickness to get. The medium .043 or the heavy duty .045. Anyone have any info on that?

 

I would also note that thinner siding tends to show imperfections of the substrate more acutely.   If you've got an older house that was built without a level and a square, get the thicker stuff.  If your house is plumb and square, you're not going to see much of a difference.   You would also want thicker stuff if you're house is subject to a lot of wind.  A shore house for example.

I would also note that thinner siding tends to show imperfections of the substrate more acutely.   If you've got an older house that was built without a level and a square, get the thicker stuff.  If your house is plumb and square, you're not going to see much of a difference.   You would also want thicker stuff if you're house is subject to a lot of wind.  A shore house for example.

thanks,

no wind but its an older house so ill go with the thicker.

I have a two foot bump overhang of second floor over first floor. There is "soffit" siding that is the underside of it for aesthetic reasons I supoose. I want to pull down that soffit and spray foam that overhang there is virtually nothing keeping the cold from entering hiuse via the overhang. I've spent a long time figuring out how I can get those sofdit pieces off without mangling my siding. If you know anything about siding there is a science to the order you install things and special skill (bending trim and aluninim etc)

Yes i could just yank it down and smush it back up but I've seen one Neigbor do his and it looks awful the reassembly. I'm extremely handy and will do the soray foam myself. I just want an expert to button it all back up for me

So I'm lookimg for a guy who has that know how to get some quick cash. PM me if you got any recommendations. I'm zero for 3 calling siding guys out of the blue they said it's not wirrh their time.

 

This Over hang has nothing to do with roof venting at all. If i had known the insulatiom in that area was gonna be so poor i wouldnr have even opted for an overhang. I'm surprised my toilet never froze the toilet is partiallly in that bump overhang area.

Barms,

I read thru the posts, and one thing wasn't quite clear. The pic you posted was of aluminum soffit, and these days there's lots of it done in vinyl. If yours is vinyl, you might like to know there's a tool called a siding zipper that you can use to disconnect pieces from each other in the middle of a run. It makes for much easier removal and replacement, and by popping out a section near the end, but not right at the end, you can just loosen and slide much of the rest back and forth.

 

I do home renovations and have done at least few dozen siding jobs over the years, as well as a fair amount of repair work. So I have an idea of what you are dealing with.

If you haven't already decided what you are doing, let me know, I'd be happy to share more info as well as possibly doing this work WITH you for a lot less that just hiring a company. I'm "semi-retired" and don't have the crew I used to, I stick primarily to smaller jobs these days. As what you have here would likely benefit from having a guy on the ground and another up on the staging or ladder, since you seem to have a clue about using tools and your brain, we could knock this out in a reasonable time.

 

If you have already figured out your plans, I'll just say good luck, and I'll bow out.

No zip tool needed. The soffit pieces are vinyl. The trim that holds the sofit "floating" is aluminum. No scaffold needed it only 8 feet higher than my deck.

You are about an hour from me, I'm in union county by 22. If your able to plan this for late May, I'd be glad to try to work out something with you. 

I'm a short dude, only 5'7", so I'd still need to find a way up instead of hopping as high as I can. ;-)