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Need to remove rail problem

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I want to remove and replace a rail on my AR-15. The original rail, free float, has several star type screws, not hex,  located on the exterior of the rail. They are in so tight I cannot budge them. Any suggestions? I will strip the head if I apply any more force

Probably locktited. Take a torch and heat them for a few seconds to melt the locktite.

 

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I want to remove and replace a rail on my AR-15. The original rail, free float, has several star type screws, not hex,  located on the exterior of the rail. They are in so tight I cannot budge them. Any suggestions? I will strip the head if I apply any more force

Follow Mikeyjones directions. I had the same issue with mine.

Put the driver in the screw and tap it with a hammer. Tap it solid. See if that loosens anything up for you.

 

If not, use heat, applied judiciously and no longer than needed.

If you don't want to use a torch use a soldering iron and hold it on screw for a minute or so. Then try to loosen

Glockncolts has the right idea. Careful with that torch, too broad a heat source. Hair dryers or commercial heating irons are safer. If Blue 242 or red 271 was used need to heat to 482F and remove when hot.  This should only be necessary if too much was used. 

What kind of rail is it? I've never seen anything shipped with red. And I've always been able to remove blue with hand strength.

 

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I would use a heat gun, it's easy to overheat with a torch. Don't forget the hand guard is most likely aluminum not steel.

Heat gun might produce enough heat. A dryer will not.

 

If you don't go full retard with a torch, you should be ok.

 

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The other possibility is that it is rusted in which a sufficient application of a penetrating oil could also help

On a torx screw where the tightness is measured in in/lb???

Yes

No auto mechanics in here? You need to use an impact driver

This is what I'm talking about

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

I use that for the Phillips screws on my brake disks... I can't imagine you would need that for torx, there should be enough contact area. Some heat and muscle should get the screw out with out stripping anything. Not to mention you need to pound on that impact driver for it to be effective.

 

Also, I'm pretty sure the bits are of a larger then normal size. I recall them being pretty beefy. Might be hard to find a torx bit that fits into the impact wrench.

It's good for ALL screws, if you have a good one like a name brand one you don't need to hit it hard at all for it to work. Everyone makes 3/8" drive torx bit sets, even seen them at home depot. 

 

Not saying heating it won't work but if you don't heat it properly you will just soften the screws and strip them out anyway. 

 

Besides, why heat it and mess up the paint? 

Haha!wow I didnt realize there was a 3/8 drive under the socket/bit adapter.

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