I'll try to keep this short.  So I just bought an aimpoint t-1 off another forum member.  It was a good price and in excellent condition.  It came with an absolute cowitness mount and I prefer a lower 1/3 so naturally I go to switch it out.  Unfortunately my dumbass strips one of the screw holes on the aimpoint a day after buying it.  

 

I contacted aimpoint, got an rma in a day, and sent the sight out asap.  On the 5th day, I had a new (presumably a refurb, but thats fine with me) aimpoint t-1 waiting for me at my door.  Thats including the weekend!

 

I'm pretty amazed by the speed and service from the manufacturer and honestly, if you are on the fence about spending the dough, just do it.  

How'd you manage to strip the screw hole?  Lol.

Over tightening the screw. Apparently the dlscrew is steel and the base is aluminium

 

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I've not needed Aimpoint CS yet (knock on wood) but I haven't heard anything other than what you describe from those that have.

I've heard similar great things about them.

I was fully ready to pay as it was my fault and I let them know as such but they took care of it

 

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http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/718023/wheeler-engineering-fat-firearm-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Gunsmithing+-+Tools%2C+Jigs+%26+Fixtures-_-Wheeler+Engineering-_-718023&gclid=CICU7eX78swCFVNZhgodvtsMFg

That link doesn't open, Nick...

I don't know if I need that. I think I was just a little overzealous putting the screws in. I put some loctite and hand tightened them last night. Should be gtg

 

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Opens for me.........

 

 

Basically an inch pound torque wrench.........

 

 

 

 

Well, if you stripped the last out, and now you just hand tightened them with loctite..... I would think you do....or a better judge of what 'tight' is. Sorry not being a douche but....well maybe it appears I am but that is not my intent..... from your manual (or I think it is):

 

To make sure that the Shaft is firmly tightened, screw the Shaft

(11) clockwise until a light resistance can be encountered.

After that, screw another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. WARNING! Do not

over tighten

 

So I had a guy locally that I used to ride with, he had a nice K75RT and he was doing an oil change......I happened to be doing my 1100rt as well and I was searching for torque specs for the drain plug......he looks at me laughs and says in a germanish accent "guduntight"..... I was like I'll find it........as he is tightening his up, I hear a soft click and his eyes widen..... he stripped out his drain hole. So much for guduntight......

 

There are torque specs for a reason.... and there is a difference between a dry spec and if lube is applied.

 

YMMV but I would search some more for a torque spec and follow it. If you choose not to do that and follow the manual.....

 

Try this.....tighten it by hand till it binds, then with your finger tips and finger tips only tighten the 1/4 turn.... you get less force from finger tips as opposed to a full hand on a driver........

 

Just my .02

 

Maybe I didn't make myself clear. I tightened the screw woth star key until resistance was felt, then turned until screw didn't want to continue, about a 1/4 turn.

 

I've used screws before, but like I said, in my haste, I just tried to put it on too tight. Torque wrenches and drivers have their place, but I don't feel I need it for this application. Thanks though

 

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Weird - took out the 'ads' and replaced it with www and it worked...

Universal torque spec:  tighten it 'til it loosens, than back up a quarter turn.     

I've used Aimpoint's CS a couple times and every time, they've gone above and beyond.  I had a bad T1 that wouldn't stay on during recoil and it wasn't a loose battery.  The other time, the windage knob didn't work on a PRO.  Both times, I couldn't tell if they fixed or replaced but I had the optics back with extraordinary speed.