I  used these last week, and they worked perfect. Regular CW just wouldn't  time the brake.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G2M392K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

12 bux for only 4?

 

 

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"Comes with (4) crush washers with four different thicknesses each offsets un-torqued part with 90 degree increment.
One of these washer is guaranteed to deliver the right orientation positioning with the correct torque value"

 

Saves a lot of sanding/grinding. Worth it in my opinion.

I've never felt comfortable over torquing a barrel more then a few degrees to time a muzzle brake. Especially since its just gonna be pinned anyway. What I came up with is a 1/2" nut and bolt and two washers. After seeing about how much it needs to go, put the head of the bolt in my vice with a washer,drop the crush washer on, another washer and run the bolt down on it. Pre-crush the crush washer what I think is close and try to time the brake again. Repeat till you get it were you need it. 

"Comes with (4) crush washers with four different thicknesses each offsets un-torqued part with 90 degree increment.

One of these washer is guaranteed to deliver the right orientation positioning with the correct torque value"

 

Saves a lot of sanding/grinding. Worth it in my opinion.

So you may up ruining one of them to get the right fit? I don't recall ever paying that much for them. But then again, quite a few brakes supply at least one. Good luck. [emoji1303]

 

 

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Get shims.

I  used these last week, and they worked perfect. Regular CW just wouldn't time.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G2M392K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

What was the issue with using regular Crush washers?

 

I have used these before when they came with a 22lr brake.

"Comes with (4) crush washers with four different thicknesses each offsets un-torqued part with 90 degree increment.

One of these washer is guaranteed to deliver the right orientation positioning with the correct torque value"

 

Saves a lot of sanding/grinding. Worth it in my opinion.

Sanding and grinding what?

I've never felt comfortable over torquing a barrel more then a few degrees to time a muzzle brake. Especially since its just gonna be pinned anyway. What I came up with is a 1/2" nut and bolt and two washers. After seeing about how much it needs to go, put the head of the bolt in my vice with a washer,drop the crush washer on, another washer and run the bolt down on it. Pre-crush the crush washer what I think is close and try to time the brake again. Repeat till you get it were you need it. 

 

FYI crush washers are all made out of different material, Iv had some that crush very easy and some that made me SMH as to what they are made of.

 

A simple solution is to put on the crush washer and hit it with a bit of heat (Torch) , only takes a second and it will crush without using much force.

 

Also remember cold weather makes a crush washer a bit more ridged.

What's your procedure to time the brake?

not sure i understand the question...  

 

I use a very long wrench requires very little pressure on my part due to leverage.

Get it close then you can just nudge it till timed.

(Hope thats what you were asking)

not sure i understand the question...

 

I use a very long wrench requires very little pressure on my part due to leverage.

Get it close then you can just nudge it till timed.

(Hope thats what you were asking)

You don't say, 'One Mississippi, two Mississippi, three Mississippi' as you turn the brake?

Lol.... [emoji12]

 

 

 

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I hum LOL

I never considered it a procedure..    Put on brake... use wrench and time it

You can crush the washers 3/4 of a full turn. What's the big deal here? 

 

ETA: For the mathematically challenged people, that is 1/32" of crushing.

I hum LOL

Steve, Ya can't time them if you don't count your Mississippis...lmao.

 

 

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You can crush the washers 3/4 of a full turn. What's the big deal here?

 

ETA: For the mathematically challenged people, that is 1/32" of crushing.

Iv never encountered a brake that could not be timed with a crush washer unless it specifically directed to use shims

When you say time, I assume that you are trying to match up the up position on the brake with the up position on the barrel AND tighten it to the correct torque. How do you know when it is oriented correctly?

When you say time, I assume that you are trying to match up the up position on the brake with the up position on the barrel AND tighten it to the correct torque. How do you know when it is oriented correctly?

Manufacturer usually tells you if it's not evident by looking at it.

 

 

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What barrel has an up position marked on it? I've seen markings on the brakes.

What barrel has an up position marked on it? I've seen markings on the brakes.

Bruh I'd like to see you try and install an ar barrel upside down

 

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There is up and straight up. How do you know that the up on the brake is exactly up to the topmost point on the barrel. I.e. it's not canted. Would this cause the barrel to recoil slightly to the side if off, or am I over thinking this?

By eyesight. If you're concerned that the muzzle blast will twist the rifle, (I don't think it does on a 223), install it canted to the opposite side of the rifling, ie AK-47s.

 

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What barrel has an up position marked on it? I've seen markings on the brakes.

 

Ummm... Im not really sure where this is going. If you cant tell the 12oclock position on a barrel then you should not be working on it.   Its very obvious

 

There is up and straight up. How do you know that the up on the brake is exactly up to the topmost point on the barrel. I.e. it's not canted. Would this cause the barrel to recoil slightly to the side if off, or am I over thinking this?

You are WAYYYYYYY overthinking this....    i would say the majority of muzzle devices are not 100% absolute 12oclock position if someone used a scientific measuring device that would be used when building a space station.   Your eyes are your best tool. just install what you think is the closest to center and look down the barrel. You can also stretch a tight string dead center of the barrel to the tip of the brake if you dont trust your eyes.

 

By eyesight. If you're concerned that the muzzle blast will twist the rifle, (I don't think it does on a 223), install it canted to the opposite side of the rifling, ie AK-47s.

 

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if it were off by a degree or 2 it would hardly make any difference.

 

Manufacturer usually tells you if it's not evident by looking at it.

 

 

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Correct...

 

 

Great.. now everyones going to want 1oclock timed brakes.

What time is it?

It's break time!