7 minutes ago, DeerSlayer said:

St12 is correct. They have an 8 and 12 for potable water. 5 and 10 are for heating systems. Again long week lol.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Is all good man.  Thanks!

4 minutes ago, DeerSlayer said:

Following their sizing chart to your house/system size. I always go slightly larger if I'm not 100% sure.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

 

 

chart says 80gal and 60psi needs a 3.2gal tank at 150F max water temp.  I'm 75gal on my water tank and 110F water temp.  ST8 is 3.2gal and ST12 is 4.4gal.  It's only $6 more so if it makes any sense to go bigger, I can.

Here is one of my water heater installs on my Barbers town house. This is how the tank should be installed. Notice I have it supported with a threaded rod hanger. That's important if it ever ruptured down the road, it wouldn't break off.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Do you have New Jersey American water as your water company?  They've been surging water through to clean out the systems....

Just now, Krdshrk said:

Do you have New Jersey American water as your water company?  They've been surging water through to clean out the systems....

I do.  They claim there's nothing going on of course.  

Just now, sota said:

I do.  They claim there's nothing going on of course.  

They've had radio ads going and I even got a robo call last week that they're pushing water through and bleeding hydrants and stuff to clean out their system...

Do you have New Jersey American water as your water company?  They've been surging water through to clean out the systems....

Regardless, his pressure reducing valve should stop that surging from entering his house.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Go with the 12, just make sure you match the tank pressure in it, to your house pressure, that's important.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ok so at this point it looks like:

I'm installing a pressure tank (ST12, unless you say otherwise.)
Having the water peeps come out and replace the pressure valve, for safety's sake
install a bib connection to plug in the pressure gauge I have, just to make keeping an eye on things easier.

I just have to cut in to the cold line and T off of it.  Wish I'd known about that a couple weeks ago, when I had to do exactly that to replace the idiot vampire tap on the hot side for the house humidifier.  I would have done the cold side as well since I had the water shut off.

Ok so at this point it looks like: I'm installing a pressure tank (ST12, unless you say otherwise.)

Having the water peeps come out and replace the pressure valve, for safety's sake

install a bib connection to plug in the pressure gauge I have, just to make keeping an eye on things easier.

I just have to cut in to the cold line and T off of it.  Wish I'd known about that a couple weeks ago, when I had to do exactly that to replace the idiot vampire tap on the hot side for the house humidifier.  I would have done the cold side as well since I had the water shut off.

 

Usually the water company will make you have a plumber change the pressure reducing valve. That falls under our scope of work. Unless the water company has a master plumbing license attached to their company...  

 

Lol @ vampire tap... yeah bro saddle valves are illegal in NJ. They're for unskilled hacks.

 

Yep install a tee between the tank and cold valve. Try to run it about a minimum of 12" away. And secure it with some type of hangar. Pretty easy. If you can solder you're home free.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I think I can handle it. As an additional item, can I fix this easily? Specifically the tank side fitting.

I heart @DeerSlayer jus talked to my guy. Granted most our stuff is hydronic radiant, and on demand. Lol, other then my house and some small Reno jobs we never come across stand alone water heaters. On demand no need bladder ( yes I know what an expansion tank is) . Love me some learning!

Yeah I think I can handle it. [emoji3] As an additional item, can I fix this easily? Specifically the tank side fitting.

Yeah remove that heat trap nipple from the tank, and replace it with a new one.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

looks like that nipple is just part #229-50053-02 (superseded 229-32762-18).

thinking if I'm in here doing all this other work, I should probably change the anode too?  pn:224-47782-07

 

and where should I go to get the needed parts specific to the heater?

I heart [mention=7008]DeerSlayer[/mention] jus talked to my guy. Granted most our stuff is hydronic radiant, and on demand. Lol, other then my house and some small Reno jobs we never come across stand alone water heaters. On demand no need bladder ( yes I know what an expansion tank is) . Love me some learning!

I put them on on demand tank less units aslo. I've had them blow relief valves without one. Depending on the temp it's set to.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

looks like that nipple is just part #229-50053-02 (superseded 229-32762-18).
thinking if I'm in here doing all this other work, I should probably change the anode too?  pn:224-47782-07
 
and where should I go to get the needed parts specific to the heater?

Any 1" heat trap nipple should work. Doesn't matter what brand. Plumbing supply house should have them, and an annode rod. Bring your model and serial number off the water heater with you. What brand? Looks like the AO smith paint color in the picture?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It's a Bradford White MI75S6BN

It's a Bradford White MI75S6BN

All my suppliers carry bradford.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

any of 'em near berkeley heights that I can name drop you at?  

Also thinking of mounting the tank on the wall behind the water heater. Redoing some of the plumbing and teeing off near the cold inlet.  There's a couple other fixes I want to do like unions that weren't done originally.

also just noticed my cold water inlet has corrosion on it to. fuck.

2 hours ago, sota said:

so you're thinking the pressure regulator at the house inlet is the cause?

Yep

Residential should be at 50psi or so. 

Depending if you have sprinkler system it may have to be increased. 

any of 'em near berkeley heights that I can name drop you at? [emoji3] 

I've never been to Berkeley Heights in my life lol...

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

 

Blackman supply in Clinton, is the closest place I know of down that way. Any Ferguson should have it as well. I think there's one in Edison, and Flemington.

also just noticed my cold water inlet has corrosion on it to. fuck.

Get dielectric unions. That's what's causing the issue. Galvanic corrosion, sometimes their necessary. Depending on how many old telephone grounds, are attached to your plumbing throughout the house...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Also thinking of mounting the tank on the wall behind the water heater. Redoing some of the plumbing and teeing off near the cold inlet.  There's a couple other fixes I want to do like unions that weren't done originally.

Mount it anywhere, as long as it's supported. They actually make a pretty nice wall mount strap kit for them. Supply house.com lists them.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

supply house is where I was looking at the tank as well.  might just put in an order through them for a bunch of the bigger bits, and get the rest at home sleasbo.

Is there any reason NOT to use a dielectric union right at the water heater nipples themselves?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0009873-1-FIP-x-3-4-Solder-LF3002-Dielectric-Union-Lead-Free

 

10 hours ago, sota said:

Is there any reason NOT to use a dielectric union right at the water heater nipples themselves?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0009873-1-FIP-x-3-4-Solder-LF3002-Dielectric-Union-Lead-Free

 

No

Cool. then I have a plan. now to just see if I can figure out the last couple bits (3/4" pipe and fittings) and I'll just order everything from supplyhouse.  even their pipe is cheaper in lengths under 10', and the same at 10'.

Is there any reason NOT to use a dielectric union right at the water heater nipples themselves?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0009873-1-FIP-x-3-4-Solder-LF3002-Dielectric-Union-Lead-Free

 

Only if you have extremely acidic water. I've seen them get attacked by it, and start to close up from the inside. They'll probably be fine if you have city water. They probably treat it for pH issues most likely. It also makes changing the tank down the road much easier. I usually use some plumbing grease on the threads of the union, so they come apart ten years down the road.

 

I'll put it to you this way, I have them on my water heater in my own house for a reason.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

 

 

You're a good man, Charlie Brown.

Thanks!`

21 minutes ago, sota said:

You're a good man, Charlie Brown.

Thanks!`

Go on demand while you’re at it!