so far so good.  one copper union needed to be tweaked a touch tighter, and cold water dielectric union also needed to be tightened a bit on the nipple, but other than that we're good as gold finally.

I guess in about 5 years I'll consider replacing the anode again.

late night report:
no more leaks
pressure is stable like a rock
nice new parts in place so no more fears of catastrophic failures

overall, it was a good day.

Nice Job, good work. Like the straps on the expansion tank. Can't tell you how many times I've seen guys put them in sideways, right off the tee.

Thanks. I'm no pro but i've been dealing with the plumbing in mine and mom's house now for 20-something years, so I might not be fast but I get it done.

And when experts ( @deerslayer ) speak, I listen.

I'm still a big proponent of copper piping, but I do see the big cost savings that PEX gives my clients on materials and install time.  The only PEX I have found reliable is PEX-a, and I've always used Uponor / Wirsboro.  I know Viega is also good, but I only have Uponor tools.   I have seen so many failures of PEX C brass fittings (and sometimes PEX B crimp rings too) that I avoid all metal fittings myself.  I'm curious, why do you use bronze fittings on heating systems?  Will the plastic fittings fail quicker with the constant heat of a heating system?  

 

 

To answer your question yes radiant heat systems with Pex will and do fail faster.

 

https://www.classaction.org/pex-plumbing-lawsuit

 

A number of manufacturers, including Uponor, Viega, Nibco and Zurn, have already been sued over their PEX piping products. While some of these cases have settled or are still moving forward, attorneys are turning their attention to other brands to determine whether failure of the PEX tubing is an industry-wide problem.

 

 

Notice they are all being sued or have been sued. Copper stands the test of time.

 

 

On a side note I just scrapped my copper. Sgt Copper picked up from us and paid more than any scrap yard. $2.73/lb and didn’t argue over what was #1 and what was #2. Brass was $1.88/lb. Brought in enough to buy a HCAR in .30-06 from OOW. Or a SCAR-17 and a SCAR-16.

You need a PRV with bypass. If PRV doesn't have bypass you definitely need an expansion tank. Ideally both.
 
 
I won't use PEX and never will.
 
 
Lastly Watts is Made in China Garbage.
 
 
Like Weil-McClain Watts is living off it's past name. Today both are Made in China Junk.
 
 
 

Weil McLain is trash!

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so far so good.  one copper union needed to be tweaked a touch tighter, and cold water dielectric union also needed to be tightened a bit on the nipple, but other than that we're good as gold finally.
I guess in about 5 years I'll consider replacing the anode again.

Do it every 2 years.

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I'm still a big proponent of copper piping, but I do see the big cost savings that PEX gives my clients on materials and install time.  The only PEX I have found reliable is PEX-a, and I've always used Uponor / Wirsboro.  I know Viega is also good, but I only have Uponor tools.  
I have seen so many failures of PEX C brass fittings (and sometimes PEX B crimp rings too) that I avoid all metal fittings myself.  I'm curious, why do you use bronze fittings on heating systems?  Will the plastic fittings fail quicker with the constant heat of a heating system?  

They're approved for hydronic heating. But I still don't trust them, especially if someone cranks up the aquastat above 180°. I prefer copper, it's always my first choice. But it's difficult to not use pex in today's market. There are some things I like better about Viega over Wirsbo. With Wirsbo it's a bitch to work with on cold days, and you have a minimum distance between fittings. With Viega I throw the jaws on my pro press, the rings are built into the fitting, and it works in any temperature. It's also twice as fast, and the quality is excellent. Plus my local supply house carries it, and they don't stock Wirsbo. I have no problem with using either brand, but the closest place that carries it by me, is an additional 20 min drive.

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 To answer your question yes radiant heat systems with Pex will and do fail faster.
 
https://www.classaction.org/pex-plumbing-lawsuit
 
A number of manufacturers, including Uponor, Viega, Nibco and Zurn, have already been sued over their PEX piping products. While some of these cases have settled or are still moving forward, attorneys are turning their attention to other brands to determine whether failure of the PEX tubing is an industry-wide problem.
 
 
Notice they are all being sued or have been sued. Copper stands the test of time.
 
 
On a side note I just scrapped my copper. Sgt Copper picked up from us and paid more than any scrap yard. $2.73/lb and didn’t argue over what was #1 and what was #2. Brass was $1.88/lb. Brought in enough to buy a HCAR in .30-06 from OOW. Or a SCAR-17 and a SCAR-16.

I like using Onyx for radiant, over pex. It's way easier to work with.

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I like using Onyx for radiant, over pex. It's way easier to work with.

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Agreed.

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*bump*

I'm overdue to replace the anode at a 2 year mark.  Guess I should order some parts and do that.

I can report, since my last post over 2 years ago, I haven't even given the water heater and water pressure a second thought.  Other than having to reset the pressure tank once recently, (noticed static pressure going from the usual 60 to 80psi on the gauge which now live permanently on the water tank) I've had no issues.  I guess we'll see what happens when I order the anode and replace it.

 

On 4/25/2018 at 2:08 PM, DeerSlayer said:

Weil McLain is trash!


 

So who makes a good boiler?  Need to change one at my parents house.

would like standing pilot, no need for all the electronics and potential failures in those super efficent units

I think it’s 140,000 btu — natural gas

4 hours ago, Heavyopp said:

So who makes a good boiler?  Need to change one at my parents house.

would like standing pilot, no need for all the electronics and potential failures in those super efficent units

I think it’s 140,000 btu — natural gas

I use Weil-McLain cast iron boilers, don't care for their wall hung mod-cons. Weil-McLain CG series for hot water, EG series for steam. No more standing pilot available (Have to get that .5 of efficiency) Do a heat loss for the house- 140,000 sounds high unless a really, really big house. Slant-Fin has free app, not too hard to use. 

If hot water system, size the boiler to the heat loss, if steam size to the radiation.

5 hours ago, Brisco said:

I use Weil-McLain cast iron boilers, don't care for their wall hung mod-cons. Weil-McLain CG series for hot water, EG series for steam. No more standing pilot available (Have to get that .5 of efficiency) Do a heat loss for the house- 140,000 sounds high unless a really, really big house. Slant-Fin has free app, not too hard to use. 

If hot water system, size the boiler to the heat loss, if steam size to the radiation.

It is a bigger boiler than needed but it’s an older home with a “gravity system” I think it refered to — all big 2” water pipes in the basement pitched towards the boiler — all one zone with no real way to split it up

was told to stay high in the btu department due to the quantity of water in the system/pipes

no more standing pilot?  That sucks

11 hours ago, Heavyopp said:

It is a bigger boiler than needed but it’s an older home with a “gravity system” I think it refered to — all big 2” water pipes in the basement pitched towards the boiler — all one zone with no real way to split it up

was told to stay high in the btu department due to the quantity of water in the system/pipes

no more standing pilot?  That sucks

Big isn't necessarily better.   Even with all that water, it will still short cycle if it's too big.  

I installed my 90k btu wall hanger and in 8 years, the induction fan failed.  It sips fuel and electric.  That said, you have to design for high efficiency with a hydronic mixer(or closely space tees), a primary and secondary loop.   Since you're not going to re-pipe, conventional it is.

I would definitely do a heat loss calculation.  It doesn't take that long and you'll get the right size which will be more efficient and long lasting.

 

Our old Weil-MacLain boiler started to leak in late summer (it feeds the hot water tank, so it's never really off), and the contractor we went with recommended replacing with a Slant-Fin.   From the internet research I did, I couldn't see a clear winner on quality, so that was fine with me.

The Weil-MacLain was old.  It was already decades old when we bought the house. I didn't get a chance to look for a manufacture date before it was hauled away, but we noticed the team that removed it actually posed for selfies with it in our driveway, so apparently even they thought it was remarkably old.

Externally, the Slant Fin looks remarkably like the Weil.  Not sure who copied who, but apparently the patents have expired and the cloning has commenced--though I'm sure there are more subtle differences inside.  The efficiency rating is exactly the same as the old boiler--we didn't opt to pay for a higher efficiency unit since we'll be joining the exodus from NJ in just 2 or 3 years.  No issues with the Slant Fin, but then we're only a few weeks into the heating season...