So, I've decided to clean my guns at work, which is licenced in my name, (as well as the building and property) so I am legally allowed to posses them there, and even carry, which I do. I have air compressors on site, do you think its a bad thing to shoot air into the trigger assembly, bolt, and other moving parts after scrubbing and shooting some gun scrubber to flush it all out? Is it possible that I am doing more dammage than good? Could I be pushing dirt farther down into it? Or perhaps risking blowing things out of proportion?

You should be fine. If recoil does not tear the gun apart, a little air will not hurt it.

Hey Chad. The problem with spraying gun scrubber is that you could be flushing out grease from critical wear points in the trigger assembly. The air is not a problem. For instance, on a revolver, unless you're removing the side plate to re-lube, you shouldn't spray gun scrubber into the lockwork. On a semi-auto, same thing, you'll have a bone dry hammer, sear, springs, etc. The issue now becomes friction and no rust prevention. If you want, give me a call at High-Calibre 732-363-4537. I'd be happy to give you some cleaning tips. Shooting for 30 years, I guess I've cleaned a few. I'll be in from 1:00 - 5:00. on Friday.

 

Safe Shooting

Mitch

Thanks guys...I might take you up on that mitch. I never thought of flushing out the grease from where it is supposed to be. Very good point. I spray Rem-Oil on the action, trigger assembly and everything else, then hit it with some air again to try and work it into everything, and get rid of any excess. But rem-oil will certainly not replace the grease thats belongs there. Thanks again for the help!

 

Now, how bout cleaning those .22 barrels?!?!?! Ughhhh lead sucks! I scrubbed the BBL with a bore brush, and hoppes #9 over and over and over again, and the patches were not getting any cleaner. They kept coming out gray. I even went to the point of plugging the barrel and filling it with hoppes, I let it sit over night, scrubbed it some more, and still had the same results. I love plinking, but hate the endless cleaning. I actually enjoy cleaning other guns that shoot brass, but the bulk pack lead shots are killing me. Any advice?

I feel your pain. First things first. Got to get the barrel clean. Try switching to a cleaning jag rather that the slotted patch holder. After you brush (Bronze Brush) with the Hoppes #9 which removes lead, use a patch over the jag. It gives you much more surface area getting rubbed by the patch and a much tighter fit. Keep repeating until it comes out clean. I used to use a Lewis Lead Remover for my 44 Mag when I shot cast bullets. Basically it's a rod with a brass patch that you pull through the barrel. Pulls out sheets of lead like crazy. Just checked, not made for a .22.

 

And if all else fails, and you have an extra $ 108.00, you can buy an Outers Foul Out II. I used a Foul Out I about 20 years ago and it works.

It's a reverse electroplating system for gun barrels. You plug the chamber, insert the electrode rod, fill the barrel with either lead or copper solution, and turn it on. It causes an electrochemical reaction which draws the lead off the barrel and plates it on to the electrode rod. When you are done the lead just wipes off the rod. You can get it at MidwayUSA.com. Hopefully you can get it clean with the jag.

 

I switched to the copper-plated .22's years ago. Easier to get out the copper than the lead although you do get both even with the copper plated. CCI MiniMag .22LR is what I use. Just tried some Federal American Eagle which seems pretty clean as well. If at all possible depending on the gun clean from the chamber side to avoid damage to the muzzle crown which can affect accuracy.

 

Oh, by the way, I love gun scrubber also. I use it on barrels and any parts I have removed already. Then I apply a good coating of lubricant/ rust preventative as the scrubber strips all oil. Absolutely keep it away from any plastic or finished wood on the gun.

 

There are so many products out there it's mind boggling. I used Break free CLP for years, never had a problem. Now I'm using Mil-Tec. Light coat of synthetic grease on slide rails and oil on all other moving parts. Like I said there will be a million products and a million opinions about what to use. Use what works for you.

 

Safe shooting

Mitch

Instead of Gun Scrubber, pick up Brake Cleaner from Wal-Mart. It goes for about $2.50 a can and is safe for all metals and Poly frames. I do remove wood grips though. We have used it for personal and club firearms for years with no ill effect.

 

As far as compressed air, unless you have an in-line dryer on the air line, you are shooting moisture into the firearm under high pressure.

Thanks for the tips...I will pick up a jag and the round patches and give it a whirl and post my results. I may just go and spring for the foul-out stuff....sounds like it really works!

 

As for the air... I have an automatic drain on the bottom of the compressors that kick on every 15 mins and stays on for 15 seconds to drain any moisture from the bottom of the tanks, I also have a ingersoll rand refrigerated air dryer (106 cfm) as well as huge quincy moisture filters at each drop point. It comes out pretty dry...my equipment does not like moisture any more than my guns!

Thanks for the tips...I will pick up a jag and the round patches and give it a whirl and post my results. I may just go and spring for the foul-out stuff....sounds like it really works!

 

As for the air... I have an automatic drain on the bottom of the compressors that kick on every 15 mins and stays on for 15 seconds to drain any moisture from the bottom of the tanks, I also have a ingersoll rand refrigerated air dryer (106 cfm) as well as huge quincy moisture filters at each drop point. It comes out pretty dry...my equipment does not like moisture any more than my guns!

 

An auto drain is nice - but will not really reduce the overall qty of moisture already in the air. If there's liquid in the bottom of the air compressor, then that means the air in the compressor is already at 100% relative humidity and the remainder of the water "came out of solution" if you will. Similar to when you put so much sugar in sweet tea that there's a 1/2 inch layer at the bottom that won't dissolve.

 

The IR air dryer is what's really doing the work to dehumidify the air.