is there any special license that I need to use a muzzleloader other than my firearm license.

Yes u need a ml and rifle permit

ok thanks

 

1 hour ago, revenger said:

ok thanks

 

Ml season is almost as good as bow...  but you need to buy the permits for ML...AND have a NJ rifle permit...5 bucks as i recall...foe the rifle permit....

 

You can hunt all Jan..on ML...as i recall...

 

The compendium had the data... 45 or better...

 

I hunted with a 54....  45 too light..and 50cal 45 sabots suck 

1 hour ago, USRifle30Cal said:

Ml season is almost as good as bow...  but you need to buy the permits for ML...AND have a NJ rifle permit...5 bucks as i recall...foe the rifle permit....

 

You can hunt all Jan..on ML...as i recall...

 

The compendium had the data... 45 or better...

 

I hunted with a 54....  45 too light..and 50cal 45 sabots suck 

Not necessarily.  Every zone is different. I hunt 23 & 19. 23 is tight. No guns in January. Where as 19 is muzzy and shotgun in January. 

Believe the rifle permit is $10 or 11$ now. And the muzzleloader permits are zone specific. 28$ per permit per zone and another 28$ for a buck tag.  

As for sabots they don't suck. Once you find the right powder and bullet combo they are deadly.  

8 hours ago, DaddyNick said:

Not necessarily.  Every zone is different. I hunt 23 & 19. 23 is tight. No guns in January. Where as 19 is muzzy and shotgun in January. 

Believe the rifle permit is $10 or 11$ now. And the muzzleloader permits are zone specific. 28$ per permit per zone and another 28$ for a buck tag.  

As for sabots they don't suck. Once you find the right powder and bullet combo they are deadly.  

I found the sabots in my sidelocks percs and flints not to be so accurate.

 

I always had luck with a straight up patched round ball

 

But then again i never shot inlines or whatever new fancy stuff

8 hours ago, USRifle30Cal said:

I found the sabots in my sidelocks percs and flints not to be so accurate.

 

I always had luck with a straight up patched round ball

 

But then again i never shot inlines or whatever new fancy stuff

I failed to mention the barrel twist rate has a lot to do with which bullet to use.  The older traditional sidelock guns have a slower twist in the barrels.  Some are 1:48" and some 1:60 or 66".  The newer guns and most inlines are 1:35 or even 1:28".  Sabots fly better with a faster twist barrel.  I have 2 traditional bp guns and they shoot round ball and full size maxi hunters bullets good to 50-75 yards. Iron sights so I'm not shooting far. The twist in those is 1:48". 

When the weather is crappy/wet I bring out the stainless/synthetic T/C Encore and it likes a 240gr bullet in a sabot.  It's barrel twist is 1:28".  Rifle like accuracy. Leupold scope on it.  

Thanks for all the replies 

I've only used T/C's Maxi-Ball in my 1:48 twist Renegade. Buffalo Bullets worked as well when I could get them, but the 425 gr. Maxi-Ball always gave me the best accuracy, so I've stuck with that.  

 

 

 

I only used T/C maxi balls cast my own.  Miss muzzloader hunting have not ever since i started the business back in 2003.

My half-stock .50 cal Lyman Trade Rifle with 1/48 twist loves 370 grain T/C Maxi-Balls w/ 72 grains of FFFg real Goex underneath.

Here's what I've done at 50 yards offhand with primitive, non-adjustable open iron sights during a regular monthly competition at Old Bridge R&P Black Powder league, 89 x 100-4X.  As you can see I'm guilty of minor "vertical stringing" due to heart beat.  The one in upper right is a called flier.  Those Maxi's have a habit of "twinning"  themselves as you can see here on this B-19 50 Yard International Target.  Bicentennial quarter for size.  Notice how sharply cut the bullet holes are.  I earned my NRA Distinguished Expert in Muzzleloading Rifle with this rifle & Maxi combo.

Here's what a single 370 grain Maxi can do to a 290 pound hog with a headshot at 22 yards.  He dropped where he was hit!