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We have rendered him speechless. Stunned, even.

If given the opportunity to Taze/Stun Zeke then I think the line would be out the door

who wouldn't ! lol

Most mounts have torque specs for screws... usually inch/pounds. The way you don't strip the threads is using a torque driver, to the right spec. Put blue Loctite on the threads, torque, then good to go. Don't do red, blue is good enough for most firearm purposes.

You purchased it out of state, regardless of where. You followed the laws of the state you purchased it in. You are GTG! Just remember, when you cross the border into the Communist PRNJ, it is considered a handgun and all rules for transport and deviations apply. God I hate this F@#king state!

Loctite doesn't work on metal-to-plastic. It's only for metal-to-metal. If you need metal-to-plastic, you can use a drop of CA glue (crazy glue) That's what is used on my RC helicopters and cars if it's really needed. Otherwise, the friction from the plastic on the screw should be enough to hold it. Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

Wow

Oh my! Are there tickets? This I gotta see!

This is what I use. Works very well. Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T09Pzb96D2MHD Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Loctite is a brand of adhesives... and there are multiple types. The black 380 Loctite bonds metal and polymer. Commonly used on the "castle nut" on the KelTec SUB-2000.

I assume we're talking about the slab floor in the basement. Is this just a hairline crack with no visible movement? If so, leave it alone. Concrete cracks when it expands and contracts. This is why large areas of concrete have grooves cut into them after the concrete is cured - to give the slab a place to crack that won't look bad. It's not a problem and any attempt to fix it will make it look worse. If it bothers you, put some resilient type of floor down - VCT, carpet, vinyl, etc. Anything hard like epoxy will just crack there too.

That looks like it would be uncomfortable to shoot with after a while.

Do it fast. Irma will be Cat5

John took a tree down for me and did a really good job.

I very recently purchased this torque wrench. I plan to use it this weekend when I mount my scope to my new Ruger Precision Rifle. I am confident I will be happy with this torque wrench. Ironically, I have used ft/lbs torque wrenches for automotive work for the last 40+ years but never owned an inch/lbs one. Better late than never. It will also help if I ever buy an RMR for my Glock 34 MOS.

None. KYMS. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

https://www.facebook.com/JerseysUrbanAxeMen/ Ask for John 201-874-1222 great company. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Local SPCA... too many dogs in shelters to not recommend at least stopping by.

Translation " HE would like to taze me"...

Well, now I've heard it all. World is definitely ending

Both.....torque it to spec... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the help Zeke.

Blue loctite gel

That's another thing people don't do much anymore, roll their lawns. Back when I had my own landscaping company I used to roll problem lawns when they got soft after the winter thaw to even out the heaving from freezing. It also flattens mole tunnels. I would also roll a new lawn after the seed was put down. The guy I work for now doesn't do that. If you have high spots you should probably shave them off with a spade and a landscapers rake. If the high spots are really bad, like mounds of dirt or construction vehicle tire tracks, a box scraper will do the trick. Conversely, if you have low spots, fill them in with top soil.

We have been using Jonathan Green (local NJ seed grower) Ultra which is a mix of tall fescues, Kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye. It's an attractive all purpose seed mix for cool season growth, drought resistance and can handle moderate foot traffic. If you have lots of kids (or parties) in your back yard then JG Original may be a better choice for the back yard. If you want to be super lazy, you can order the seed on Amazon. Many landscape nurseries and local lawn and garden shops carry JG products. To find a supplier near you, use their store locator. http://www.jonathangreen.com/jonathan-green-store-locator.html Something I forgot to mention earlier in the thread. Don't forget to scalp your lawn before you begin the seed preparation process. If you are seeding the whole lawn, scalp the whole lawn. If you are spot seeding, just scalp the area to be seeded. Set the mow height the lowest you can without having the blade(s) hit the ground or surface roots. It's going to be another 4 to 6 weeks before you can cut your grass after seeding. Plus, the clippings help the soil retain water and add nutrients.

That is a terribly written article on so many levels. A big issue that I see is the unrealistic expectation of what a stun gun can do vs what a Taser can do, and how many different ways even a Taser can be ineffective. A stun gun relies solely on pain compliance - It does not feel much different then a hard pinch, a "Dead Leg" type punch, or a bad charlie horse cramp. It does not knock you unconscious for minutes like on TV or movies. It just hurts and as soon as you break contact from the stun gun, which is as easy as getting 1/8" of distance between your skin and the device, the pain stops immediately. If you have a determined attacker, all you are doing with it is pissing them off. A Taser is a different animal and has the ability to completely incapacitate an individual for a very short time if deployed correctly - but there are a lot of considerations that need to be taken into account to use one successfully. AND just like a stun gun, once the device finishes its cycle, there are no lasting effects and the target is free to continue their aggressive actions with no after effects. Everyone is clamoring for these devices but they just don't know what they are, how they work, any of their shortcomings, or the required TTPs you need to use one of these successfully. And, at the end of the day, if you look at our self defense laws - any time you would be justified to use one you would most likely be better served with a handgun.

You know, I have to laugh... these things are so very common... for god's sake, they're even for sale on Amazon!! The fact that this is even a big enough deal in NJ to merit state police and AG recommendations - and newspaper coverage - just goes to show you how this state really has it's head up it's ass. My big concern - (and some other poster made this wise point, it's not my original thought) - is that somehow NJ will find a way to use this against us. Well, lady, sure you've got a restraining order and a crazy ex, but you don't need a gun and a concealed carry license --- because NOW, you can get a stun gun instead! That will meet your needs! People like Sweeney and Weinberg will undoubtedly find some way to slither away from this good thing... and somehow turn it into a bad thing! Bank on it. I may be newer to some of these issues than the rest of you, but even I can envision that already!

When I get tired of picking up brass I will just shoot .22 rimfire -- usually only lasts a few range sessions I will never sell my reloading equipment -- I had it in storage for a decade as my kids where growing up and life got in the way During an ammo recession is when you'll appreciate being able to roll your own -- just stock up on components now while they are cheap and available

For the longest time, 1:8" wasn't that popular. People would pick 1:7" or 1:9". My Spikes upper, which they installed an AA piston kit, is 1:8"... and I haven't found a load it hasn't liked (had function issues with UMC .223... but was the buffer combination I was using; ran fine with a standard buffer). My FDE build was based off an 18" 1:8" barrel.

My AR is a 20" 1:9 chrome lined. I typically shoot 55gr, so I can't speak to heavier rounds, but I will say it's much more accurate than I am. I'd wager that depending on the level of competition you're doing, the build you're looking at will suffice. It's easy to go down a rabbit hole and just spend tons of money, but you eventually reach a point of diminishing returns. I'd think that loading your own ammo, and experimenting with what loads the particular rifle does best with will yield greater results in the long run Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I'm gonna toot my horn. 6mm AR 107SMK BC 0.547 @ 2715fps drops -171.4" @ 800yd.

Are we seriously debating this? We teach our kids this before kindergarten: "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should." On a different note - if you are going to any kind of rally/protest/march/etc... and you see KKK or swastikas, that's a clue to about face and go home. All your presence does is add credence to those awful people. Standing shoulder to shoulder with a brown shirt or a white sheet will never ever help our cause.

Factory recommended ammo for my Savage 10FCP-K (bolt gun) with 24" 1:9 .223Rem barrel is 69 grain Federal Gold Medal Match SMK BTHP (GM223M). Despite what all the charts say about twist vs grain, the gun does like em plenty. I've shot 75gr match ammo through it as well, and it liked that too. Back when I got the gun, I didn't do enough homework on twist rates, and when I researched further well after getting the rifle, I was disappointed Savage went with 1:9. For a bolt rifle that is supposed to be very accurate, it doesn't make much sense why they chose a 1:9 when a 1:8 or 1:7 would have made much more sense for the most common match ammos out there IMO. However, in practice, with good, high quality ammo, it has not seemed to make a difference, or at least a substantial enough difference that it shows with my shooting skill level. My ARs have 1:7 and 1:8 barrels, though I don't shoot much high end ammo through them. If I were starting fresh with any .223 gun, I'd probably try for 1:8 for the most versatility.

First, no don't build a 1:12 .223 gun. Second, if you want to build a .223 for accuracy, it usually means you want to shoot heavier rounds, not lighter. Heavier round mean higher BCs, which means less wind drift over distance. If you are reloading for volume, yeah the light varmint bullets are cheap. However, if you aren't, they aren't so easy to find commercially. 77gr SMK/nosler based rounds cna be had regularly, and sometimes at pretty good price per round for accurate ammo. I personally like 1:8 barrels, it covers pretty much every useful bullet for .223/5.56

Faster twist with lighter bullets is a no-no in the 223 platform. My heavy barrel is 1;9 as I shoot only 50-68 grains in it. Actually changing from 68 BTHP w/Varget to 52 BTHP with TAC.