GRIZ

Sorry about the gender thing. Happy to have been of help. You have any question about how either is supposed to be oriented call Ruger Customer Service.

I agree with your last two sentences. I said that before. You finally said what I've been saying all along when you say, "...don't care if the brake costs $10...".

I say you want to doubt Ruger because you are questioning what their test criteria is. Could be Ruger's is a better test. We can't be sure. I would think Ruger has a lot more resources to employ. I already explained why Ruger can make a better product for less money. The brake either reduces recoil to a certain degree or it doesn't. Yes one spends a lot of money if they seriously get into long range shooting. I'm very aware of that. $100 more in the total cost is small. However, I don't think that's what Lambo's intent is. I think the Ruger brake will work fine for her. Even if you're not sure it will work as well as one costing more.

Reduction of momentum and peak force are the only way I know to do this. You can compute free recoil energy. Measure before and after installing the brake. There's a formula for computing free recoil energy but there's no way to plug in a factor for reduction unless you test momentum and peak force. I feel confident Ruger tested this "properly". The fact the Ruger product was designed for a specific rifle makes it able to engineer their surpressors to be more effective. Aftermarket brakes "might" be caliber specific. Ruger's are rifle specific. I understand what you're saying. I don't doubt the testing by Precision Rifle. I don't doubt the testing by Ruger. You want to doubt Ruger. Even if the Ruger would be half as effective as they claim it would still be a bargain compared to what other are asking. If it performs the same as the least effective the Ruger is still half the price with no gunsmithing costs. I tried to find a review where they actually tested the Ruger brake. Couldn't find one. But I did find several people who shot a Ruger rifle with and without a the Ruger brake. They all said they didn't think Ruger was lying about the recoil reduction. I realize many have spent several hundred dollars on brakes and find it hard to believe a factory can do better for $60.

Lambo, I did a little homework for you. The brake made by Ruger will cost you $60. Their flash surppressor $20. I called Ruger Customer Service and asked all the pertinent questions. You can install them yourself, no gunsmith needed. You need to get the correct thread size. You just need to pay attention to where the ports in each are facing and adjust by using the lock washer. The brakes and surpressors Ruger sells are made specifically for Ruger rifles and are made by them. Not subcontracted. Recoil reduction is 57-58%. Compare this to those tested in the link Shane45 posted. The best brake listed reduces recoil by 44%. That costs $185. The least effective reduces recoil by 18% and costs $116. Most of those listed require gunsmith installation so that's going to cost more. I don't think Ruger is lying about the recoil reduction as there is no need to. The aftermarket brakes are a one size fits all. Rugers are made specifically for their rifles. Because of this they can be more effective and a DIY installation. Spend $60 for something that's almost a third more effective than something over 3X the price. Seems like a no brainer to me. Spend another $20 for the flash surrpressor while you're at it.

You probably can save some money by finding your own insurance. The mortgage lender really doesn't care too much the cost as you're paying it. I've never let the lender get insurance for me. When I bought the house I paid the first year premium up front. My agent sent proof of insurance to lender. The lender then calculates the monthly payment and puts the insurance into escrow along with the taxes. When it comes time for renewal the agent sends the bill to lender ahead of time and the lender pays the next year premium. If you're a veteran USAA is a good deal. I've been using them for everything for about 30 years. No one ever beat their price or service.

Page 1 of the Combat Engineer FM used to list Combat Engineer combat missions as mobility, countermobility, and survivability. It then added "when not involved in engineering missions, engineers will fight as infantry".

Okay, I agree with above.

I would consider parts offered my the manufacturer "decent".

You're wrong on this. A General Discharge can be under honorable conditions or other than honorable. A General Discharge is given when the service member is being released from their obligation due to a variety of reasons. Some honorable some other than honorable. Some examples of General under honorable conditions: Medical conditions not related to military service Poor performance often due to a medical condition General under other than honorable conditions: Servicemember has become a general screwup Repeated misbehavior for minor offenses (Article 15s) In practice some servicemembers who really should be discharged under other than honorable are often given a General under honorable to get rid of them. There is a requirement for the servicemember to acknowledge that a General under Honorable Conditions may result in some prejudice later in life. One keeps just about all veterans benefits with a General under Honorable Conditions. Wanting to give someone a General under Other than Honorable entitles the servicemember appeal rights and loss of many veteran benefits. A General under Honorable Conditions might be offered to expedite getting the guy out of the service. All servicemembers in the Army discharged under other than honorable are reduced to E1. This guy wasn't.

People buy too many things for rifles because they "look good".

A General Discharge can be Honorable or Other Than Honorable. It seems this guy was wasn't all there in the head Please don't play the PTSD card. That's way overplayed IMO.

The ammo restriction still covers several boxes of handgun ammo. I don't think he fired 100 or 200 rds. I agree he could have done more damage if he just drove to the airport. He could have used a "AK 47" and 100 rd drums. BTW they just showed on Fox the flight was Anchorage to Minneapolis to FL. I forgot there are exemptions for some foreign air carriers to travel directly from and to US cities. Intetesting, Gov Scott talked to Trump but not Obama. I guess Obama can't be bothered. Maybe he's playing golf somewhere. Fox also said the perpetrator was given a General Discharge from the Alaska National Guard in August 2016. That would indicate there's something wrong with this guy.

Firearms are prohibited in nonsecure areas of airports in FL. The only exception is if you're traveling with the gun and it's unloaded and in your checked luggage. There is current legislation in FL to change this and allow people with a CCW to carry in the non secure area of airports. Absent any state law, there is no Federal law prohibiting a person carrying legally from carrying in a non secure area of the airport. Federal jurisdiction at airports is in the secure area only. This guy apparently was flying from Anchorage to FL. It was an Air Canada flight which had to make a stop in Canada. Foreign carriers are not permitted to fly passengers directly from one US destination to another.

Ruger has brakes starting at $45. Look on their website for accessories.

BTW, as far as what to feed your rifle, I shoot mostly 7.62 NATO spec ammo in my Savage. My rifle shoots 3/4" groups or smaller with just about NATO spec ammo. That includes the Lithuanian or Turkish ZQI. I got a bunch of ZQI for abput 40 cents a round and the brass is as good as most for reloading. That settles down to about 2" groups +/- at 300 yards, the farthest I've shot it. You can shoot smaller groups with a slightly heavier bullet (168 or 172) but how much accuracy do you want. It's fun to experiment with different loads. I have a 150 gr soft point load which duplicates the NATO load if I wanted to hunt with the rifle. Remember you don't have to pin or weld any muzzle device you put on that rifle.

No magazine over 15 rds. The mags are the same as an AR IIRC. Other than that you can put anything you want on that rifle All the evil features if you want. They only apply to semi autos with detachable magazines. Ruger makes flash hider and muzzle brakes starting from $19.95 up. I would prefer a flash hider (only $19.95) as you will get a bit of flash from that 20 inch barrel in dim light. I don't consider recoil an issue with a 10 lb bolt gun in 7.62 NATO. Brakes help more with a semiauto as you can be shooting it faster. I don't know you will perceive the recoil. I would fire it first and see what you think of the recoil. If you're okay with it get a flash hider. If not get a brake.

He might but that would have more points to argue than a law passed by Congress. An EO would be subject to more scrutiny by courts than a law passed by Congress.

That's a very negative view and not a very realistic one. NJ could file a lawsuit. Anyone can file a lawsuit. It getting somewhere is another issue. There are 22 Federal judges assigned to the District of NJ. There are also 2 vacancies. Those will be filled by Trump. There are 10 judges appointed by Carter, Clinton or Obama. The rest have been appointed by G.W. Bush and Reagan. There will be 2 by Trump. That will make 14 appointed by Republicans. The Chief Judge was appointed by G.W. Bush. AFAIK it's the Chief Judge who decides who gets what case. Odds are any case will be assigned to a Republican appointee. There are already a variety of licenses issued by other states that are recognized in NJ. Requesting an injunction to prevent implementation of the reciprocity probably won't go anywhere. The blood running in the streets argument won't work. Is the blood running in the streets in the other 49 states. Out of state active and retired LEOS have been carrying under LEOSA for some time. Ain't no blood in the streets. Comparison to the overtime law isn't the same. There is no cost to anyone for a reciprocity law. The comity clause in the Constitution pretty much supports any reciprocity law.

A state can't challenge a federal law just because they don't like it.

Do you have a 4" 357 revolver? Best all around handgun IMO. Your budget can buy you a GP100 or 686. Learn to shoot a DA revolver well and everything else is easy.

When I was working maybe 70-80,000 miles a year. Since retiring about 20,000.

Painting any magazines is a bad idea. Paint chips can interfere with the gun's function. If you must have color coordinated magazines the dye option is better. Never did it don't know about durability. I'd try one magazine before I do them all.

The water should never be near ammunition or powder. FWIW fixed ammunition, factory or reloads is pretty waterproof as it is. There are countless times I've left dome ammo in my pocket and it went through the wash, rinse, and spin cycles in the wash. Would I load it in a gun for serious social purposes? No, but I would take it to the next practice session and it all would work fine. After using the WD40 as I described above I often use Brake Kleen or Gunscrubber to blast all the WD40 off. If you do so you need to be aware this can damage some plastics. The only plastic I can say won't be damaged is in a Glock. I went to a seminar by Glock and the factory rep recommended Gunscrubber.

Why would anyone use salt to clean corrosive residue? That's like washing your car with mud to get it clean. The guy using vinegar and salt is an idiot. Nothing, I mean nothing, cleans corrosive salts better than...water. This is not just GRIZ's opinion. The US Army Ordnance Board came to this after testing before WW2. Hot water works better as the heat speeds up the dissolving of the corrosive salts. A bit of soap or detergent keeps the salts in suspension. Windex, household ammonia,or any of the other popular myths are no better than water. Hoppes #9 or GI bore cleaner will remove corrosive salts. Once again not as good as water. If I'm doing a complete clean on a semi auto that has fired corrosive ammo I first use hot water. I follow with dousing the parts with WD40. This is what WD40 is for, displacing any water that may be in the nooks and crannies. Follow with a conventional clean using your favorite solvent and lube.