GRIZ

You really don't "need" a muzzle break.

Ship UPS or Fedex ground and be sure you have ORM-D labels you can get free on the internet. There is a new label replacing ORM-D after the end of December I think.

I can't see any problem with transporting in trunk locked. However this is one case I would advise having empty magazines. IIRC you can have 10 in the gun on the range, 7 elsewhere. Hate to see you get in trobule if you miscount and have 8 in a magazine.

Registrations on cop's personal cars have some secret coding? All cops don't have a shield in the window.

Jail time for multiple offenses or causing a serious accident as I understand it. Cameras can't play any favorites wherever you are.

Glock will sell 380s directly to a LE agency or an individual LEO if approved by a supervisor last I knew. May be cool to have but they are built on 9mm/40 frames so you're not really gaining anything in regards to size.

Last I knew things like failing to yield, illegal uturn, and passing on the right could get you a year in prison in Germany in addition to the fine. That's a way to insure respect. Here all we have is fines and license suspension.

AFAIK straw purchases only apply to real firearms under Federal law. As long as you both have a FID and complete a COE I don't see anything wrong with this.

I think Lyman is the best. Gives you plenty of data for lead bullets and jacketed bullets from different manufacturers.

No place in the law that says that. When someone notices all the children with their eyes shot out by Red Ryder's during drivebys they might do something. The only thing that produces more casualities among the children is the drive by bayonetings.

No mag capacity with BB guns. I don't know why. Don't look for any common sense in NJ gun laws.

What you say about driving in the left lane is so true and seems to be most common in the NY/NJ area. If you're doing 65 and the guy behind you starts closing in at 70, you take it up to 70, he wants to take it to 71, you go 75 and he wants 76. If you wind up going 100 he wants to go 101. You pull over and let him pass and then winds up doing 70 again. He just can't have anyone in front of him.

D How do we determine which guys can drive 80 safely? Don't compare Germany to any place in the US when it comes to getting a drivers license. If you're starting from scratch you have to take a medical eye test and take a first aid course. The written test is no piece of cake and I understand about 1/3 of the people taking it fail the first time. You also need to take several levels of driving schools. These aren't a drive 15 mph over some closed course. The more advanced ones require high speed manuevering and braking on a closed course. I watched one of these schools being conducted at the airport in Munich about 15 years ago. By the time you get your license it may have cost you over 1000 Euros and you've already demonstrated you can handle a car at 80 mph.

I think an Accustrut will take that down to 4" or less. I don't think you'll see much, if any, return from that other stuff you have planned. Bedding the action won't do anything as the problem is the barrel. If you want I can meet you at CJRPC and give you my opinion if you are really shooting up to the rifle's full potential.

If you can do without "the look" you can get a reasonably priced upper with nothing on the end of the barrel from several sources. IMO the AR doesn't need a compensator and most have one for "the look".

I bought 2 S&W Model 10s, mechanically excellent cosmetically very good, for $125 each last year. Also bought a 1944 Walther PP in 32, nickle plated and had the Nazi markings buffed out so no collector value for $150. It has some pitting and is a bit ugly up close but looks good 5' away. These were private sales and that's where you find the best bargains. I also got a post war commercial 1934 Beretta from Cheyenne Mountain a few months ago for $200.

You mean shoots better than you are capable of? What size groups do you shoot at 100 yds?

Well Bob here is where we agree to disagree. Yes, forging is generally stronger than casting. However, the side plate design of the S&W frame means that there is only a complete frame on one side of the gun unlike the Ruger which totally encloses the cylinder. Ruger frames are not only investment cast but also use some type of nodular casting technology. Nodular casting sets up the stress lines in the metal so they are more dispersed than in a forged part. How strong is nodular casting? Most crankshafts in cars have been made this way since at least the 60s. Yes racers use forged crankshafts which are stronger but they are confined to the dimenisonal limits of the engine. If you thicken up that topstrap and other parts of the frame you can have that frame stronger than a forged part. Another incident helped form my opinion of Ruger's strength. I helped test guns for adoption by the US Border Patrol back in the early 80s. S&W submitted the Model 66 and Ruger the Security Six (frame design basically the same as GP100 and Redhawk). S&W were tested first as they were th low bidder. The test required 10,000 rd of full magnums without any major issues. The S&Ws developed problems like timing, forcing cone cracking, flame cutting, frame stretching, and one gun blew up its cylinder at 400 rds. The longest one lasted was 1500 rds. The Rugers went the 10,000 magnums with no problems. We wanted to see how much farther they would go and one developed a timing issue at 13-14K rds IIRC. The rest of the guns hit 20,000 rds and they wouldn't give us any more ammo. I own both and shoot both and will say you can't go wrong whichever you choose.

All that plus more magnification makes it easier to find holes in the target.

I wouldn't worry about an adjustable gas block to "save the receiver". I've seen Mini 14s with well over 50,000 rds through them that needed a barrel because the bullets were keyholing. Besides if you're concerned with maintaining reliability I would not screw with the gas system. Its your money and you spend it the way you please but it seems you're planning on spending way too much accurizing a Mini 14 that I don't think you're going to see a lot of return for our mods. Add a few hundred to what you plan on spending and you can get an inexpensive AR or 223 bolt gun for accuracy. What size groups does your Mini 14 shoot?

I've had at least one Mini 14 around since they were introduced about 40 years ago. What size group does it fire from a cold barrel? If its 4 inches or less you're not going to get much better than that. I seriously doubt that adding a few iounces at the end of the barrel will do anything to improve accuracy. If it did everyone would be doing it. If you want to do something to improve accuracy with our Mini 14 get something like the Accustrut. Bolts on and it makes your Mini look more like a M14 (kind of cool I guess). You also need to accept the Mini 14 for what it is, a modern M1 carbine with a better cartridge not a battle rifle.

He needs to if your FFL here will accept the gun here. Your FFL has to log where he got the gun from. If a FFL in TX sends ir the FFL here can use the FFL in TX as source of the gun. Copy of drivers licence is best. Passport doesn't have his address.

Can't see why the Ruger would not be approved for games. Where did you get that info?

I've carried a PPK or PPK/S for about 40 years but have been carrying a new BG 380 lately. I'll decide which is better after the new wears off the BG.

Either one is a winner. Trigger better in a 686, GP100 more durable. If you're really concerned about "what fits your hand" get the GP100 as it doesn't have a grip frame like the 686 allowing much more variety in the type of grips you use.