raz-0

Im pretty sure Jerry will blow the curve with whatever he shoots. I still argue he killed revolver.

Yeah, that'll grow the sport.

It's a double edged sword. Fixing stuff in practiscore is painful. Fixing it in the export files is fast. Fixing it in ezwinscore is only marginally painful. If practiscore adds the ability to merge shooters that might change some, but even then something like what happened with the import of OB's shooters last month would have taken forever to fix. Fixing it in the flat export files took half an hour.

http://cjuspsa.coffeecup.com/forms/CJ_10132013_Form/ Feel free to share the link. Vlad needs to find the password for the site again.

It looked the same to me. Which is why I suggested what I did. I've encountered drag from odd geometry due to cheap ass DIY "trigger jobs", and in some instances, you could get the drag to disappear by applying a little lateral pressure on some components. But it was not an intermittent thing.

As far as I can tell, the regulations on it come down to storage and transport, and that is a function of quantity.

Four sevens designs their circuits well. That's the reason for the burst mode. It's limited to avoid thermal issues while permitting them to not get slammed in the marketing wars. The latest emitters are insanely efficient. 4sevens lists all their lights by OTF ansi lumens, in fact that were part of the group of flashlight makers that pushed for there to be an ANSI standard. As for the surefire die hards, I got my first one in 1996. EDC from then until 2003. Tried a bunch of lights, and have been EDCing a 4sevens quark QP2L (or at least that is what it would be called now) from the second batch they ever shipped out in 2009. IMO surefire is absurdly overpriced, especially for anything that might be vaguely considered EDC pocket carry. They also neglected UI and features for too long making absurdly priced lights that do absurd things and beating vendors to death over MAP rather than letting vendors protect their market position with reasonable prices. While they do still offer something desirable in weapon light, everything pocket-able is not a stand out on price, features, UI, etc.

Also made of a more expensive material (granted, less of it), with a more expensive finish, and chew up tooling faster. Not saying $90 is similar margin and as fair pricing as their lower, but there are increased costs to to consider in pricing.

I'm guessing that your trigger geometry is changing based on loose pin openings or a flexing lower, and that the force applied to the trigger group is different when using the bolt release than when under normal operation.

No really, you generally shoot them because you are in reasonable fear of your life. Preferably before they have caused you significant harm. Since bad acting can't actually kill me, I wouldn't worry about it. However, assuming you bought this, the woman could reasonably be considered a potentially lethal hazard to everyone present. Not to mention being in a locale where you can use deadly force to prevent the rape, murder, maiming or crippling of another individual. I would argue that she was escalating rapidly from a situation that did not justify the degree of force used. Theoretically. Like I said, bad acting isn't fatal.

So the barrel nut is cylindrical, and the forearm just tightens down on it like the old troy or the sampson rail but without any interference with the geometry? Just a friction fit on a polished surface. That's what I get form looking for installation info. I think the problem is it was engineered stupid, I don't see how you can make that not happen without babying the gun or going with stickygrips idea, which would likely not work well if you ever needed to disassemble and reassemble. Every other smooth barrel nut I have seen that lets you not worry about clocking the nut to the gas tube has a channel machined in it to lock into. Hmm it's made by seekins, and now seekins sells the sar gen2. Whic shickingly enough doesn't use the same barrel nut design.Notice it no longer clamps onto a smooth nut. http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=SKN%2DSAR&PhotoNumber=9 grr edited that into the wrong thread first time around.

Yes. It is in theory on. This is based on the assumption that there is actually sufficient time to get all the prep work done. I have exactly one stage in and 2 volunteers to design this month. I'm really tempted to put in a crap stage you have to assemble on the clock. edited to remove a wrong window edit. grr

http://home.comcast.net/~k2a/Brownells1911.html It's an interesting read. I found it helped me to make the Kuunhausen book less opaque.

Hmm, really? You are an optimist. I'm prety sure the only goal was to replace the 900 number for the least cost possible.

had some cash left on a gift card, so an otis BONE is on the way. I'll post a comparison of that vs the CAT-M4 tool when I get it.

I've seen it happen, but I'm not sure that it actually has anything to do with age. Age certainly isn't the only factor. I like turbo charged 4 bangers, and I only do quality dino juice now and I stick to 3500 mile intervals. Last one got only synthetic after the first few oil changes, and it burned through oil way faster once I did. The current one, I saw lots of forum posts where people were blowing through oil and getting some smoke on hard acceleration with synthetic, so I didn't do the synthetic switch over. The car is none the worse for it so far. Classic style or synthetic, none of them stand up to small turbos for long, and everything in NJ is severe duty cycle.

No, we have them. They just need to be manually fixed as the nooks didn't like some of the input for some reason, so there is no getting clean data out of them. We can't submit classifiers until we fix it though.

Sorry no. The rainier has coiled roll pins. That means they are under tension and shouldn't move from where you put them, even if you disassemble and reassemble. The simple split roll pin is essneitally disposable. The coiled ones are stronger as well. Given that the ambi desing means less beefy parts, having more leverage on one side than it was designed for is not a good plan either. Tolerances look way tighter on the real one as well.

Tell her she is a big girl and it shouldn't be significantly different than the 20ga because the gun is heavier and to give it a try once. Her issue is a matter of perception, a stock won't fix that. Heck, just tell her you epoxied a mercury recoil reducer into the stock and that's why it is that much heavier than a 20ga. See if that gets her over the hump. It's not going to knock her on her ass.

unicorn sparkles? What you want doesn't exist. Unless you mean some kind of high temp paint rather than lube. Also your quoted articles are not relevant. Hot .223 ammo (m193, m855) kills a barrel in two ways. Gas port erosion and throat erosion. This is due to the gas flame cutting the steel. Even chrome lined barrels will succumb to this, just slower than most. 4150 as a substrate deals with it better. When I got into the DIY AR stuff, chrome lined barrels were of limited availability, quality ones doubly so. Most built stainless or parkerized CMV barrels. For a budget build, a CMV barrel would get it done. All the lube in the world won't prevent it, and a carbine length gas system jsut makes the gas port erosion happen faster. The thing that really tells me to not buy something like this $150 barrel is that it is blued. Bluing is cheap if you skip good surface prep to make it pretty or don't hot blue. Parkerizing is pretty easy form a labor standpoint, and give corrosion protection. And Oxyante 7 is not cheap compared to parkerizing? A 5 gallon can of the stuff is $135. Good manganese parkerzing solution is about $160 a gallon. When the vendor is choosing a lower quality finish, a lower lower quality steel, and for the $150 price it is in theory a fluted barrel which requires more machining time (and the skill/cnc setup to keep it symmetric so POI doesn't shift badly as the barrel heats up). Ask yourself how much they care about quality. Ask yourself if you will essentially be throwing away $150. Ask yourself why they lied to you about the cost of the finish. I'm assuming you bought it since you have a gallery up, so hopefully it is ok, but like I said. I wouldn't buy one. Myself, it's 4150 that's been melonited, 4150 CMV chrome lined, or a good stainless steel.

It's low grade cmv that is blued. It'll be very susceptible to rust, and the gas port and throat will flame cut faster than 4150. No where near the durability of chrome lined. It's cheap, but not cheap enough to justify the shortcomings IMO.

There were issues with the form data, so uspsa numbers need fixing. Until they are fixed, ezwinscore can't update classifications. Everyone comes in from practiscore as u regardless of what is actually entered.

Nuked in deference to not making Jon's life harder.

They were at the back of the giant packs of zombies cause they were slower and thus hidden?

http://www.magnumresearch.com/Baby-Desert-Eagle-Magazines/Magnum-Research-Baby-Desert-Eagle-9mm-15-RDPolymer-Base.asp