raz-0

S&W had issues with front sights falling out. If your M&P is form before then, getting the sight out isn't hard. If your M&P was made after then, you are going to have to put some force into it. I would never attempt to do sights without a vise... again. This is from doing sights on way more than just my M&P. In general, sights are in there pretty good.

The teuller drill is about understanding how deep the doo-doo you are standing in is once an assailant is within a certain range. From a citizen's point of view, it should make two things very clear. 1) That you need something in the way of hand to hand training dealing with weapon retention and 2) that in situations where you aren't just turned into a victim with very little warning, you have to be alert to escalation. If you have a realistic concept of how dangerous someone within about 21' is to you, yeah it is useless. If not, it is useful. If you are not sure, it is useful.

There used to be. At least searching via the official search over the years, I came up with at least three revisions of the statute without any peep about the legislature voting on anything. Fills you with a sense of confidence.

If you haven't wished for such a thing, you don't need one. I find the uplula useless, but that's because i don't find magazines hard to load and the only ones I have that are finger shredding sharp, it doesn't work with. I do have a maglula for my ar mags. Mostly for unloading partial mags, which it does speed up a lot.

Maybe someday. There are issues with it like not enough dirt for the berms and about a foot of water in one corner when it rains hard. Don't expect an eighth stage at the OB match any time soon.

I like mine a lot.

I have seen it before. 1) It is so awesome they keep on changing it. That means either the current product doesn't work, or the product that was so frikin awesome was flawed. What you cna buy now isn't what is shown in the video. 2) It doesn't do both well. Honestly, some dude stuck his name on it because he probably thought it compromised better than the other 15 compromises he's encountered. It's simply a 2-point sling that you can sort of use like a hasty sling. I've got slings that do that. I will say that wrapping your sling around your neck is a pretty crappy way to transition. It's doable, but slower than a single point, and if things go badly you are scrambling for the quick release while getting choked by a piece of webbing strong enough to decapitate you before snapping under load, which kind of sucks. If you don't land the transition exactly right, depending on how things fit, it can cause issues with being able to get a reasonable sight picture. Not so bad with a red dot, more annoying with irons, but really a PITA with a magnifying optic. 2 points are always pretty reasonable at holding the gun at a port arms like storage position as long as you attach them at both ends of the gun. Move the mount points in and that can get sketchy, or you introduce issues with stability and/or transitions. Then theres stability. a 2 point offers some help here when used as a hasty sling. However, it depends on your build. You can wind up with the sling pulling quite tight across an artery and introducing reticle movement form your pulse that you wouldn't get without the sling. Also, when you employ something like the m1907 as a hasty sling, you usually leave your head out of it, so you are JUST dealing with the pulse issue. With the modern 2-point slings, you are also putting your neck in the loop. So when you tension up, you can actually start yanking your head around with movement from your offside arm. As long as your neck doesn't leave the loop, they are ok at retention. Single points are good at transitions, good at retention, do absolutely nothing for stability and are mediocre at storage of the weapon. Slings like the no pulse, ching sling, qucik cuff, and a few others actually add a third vector of tension for more stability, they have varying usefulness for storage mode, and although the ching style is arguably the best at facilitating some stability while freeing you up somewhat for transitions. They are all pretty much useless for retention. Keep in mind I am saying that ALL slings are a compromise and pretty much suck. If you can even remotely articulate a reason why one sucks less for you, it probably IS better for your uses. Just don't expect that advantage to hold up if you change use patterns. for the shooting I do, the no pulse, ching, and quick cuff are out of the question. My choice of compromise is a quality convertible 2point/1point sling which I sue primarily in single point mode. I find that with altering my technique from what I learned as a kid with nra hi-power type instruction to a more modern squared up technique that employs supination of the off hand, I can get pretty close to the stability of a hasty sling using a bladed stance. But that's from my particular perspective from shooting 2-gun and 3-gun. If I had to run a check point stnading around all day, my answer would probably be different. Shooting hi-power, DEFINITELY different.

Your reasoning is crap. Bad ammo is bad ammo because it has things like squibs, overcharges, double charges, bullets that set back and other fun stuff. No gun will run on squibs. No gun will tolerate double charges. You prove nothing about your gun's reliability by running crap through your gun. The ammo is unreliable because of a problem with the ammo. It's not like there's a magic gun that puts missing powder back in, fixes bullet setback, checks for double charges and other such things.

It's three years actually. I had the fun of dealing with that. I had some significant planned and unplanned expenses for a period of three years and thought I was doing pretty good by just not dipping into my savings. The state assumed they would be helping themselves to my savings because I ahdn't made a deposit or withdrawal for three years. Nice, isn't it?

My take on it is you either can have a sling good at stabilization, or you can have a sling good at retention and transition to secondary weapons. I have yet to find one that is good for both.

Well I'll disagree with your disagreeing. See I can either determine a case is out of spec when I'm shooting and it causes a malfunction, or I can case gauge it. I HAVE run into cases that don't gauge nicely without a small base die. They might chamber fine, but I'd rather be able to do qc while throwing away the minimum number of rounds.

Yes, most of their ammo sales are not loss leader sales, just very little margin. I believe they have issues getting inventory right now, especially as being a large chain, they aren't likely to turn to alternate vendors short term. Inventory not keeping up with demand isn't a really good reason to refuse to do business with a company unless you just like to run around filled with self-rightous indignation for the kicks. *shrug*

One thing to keep in mind. He said that he chose 21' not because it's what they had to work with but because that was the distance they trained with their pistols. AFAIK, the 21' distance was chosen at some point because it covered a vast majority of violent confrontations in police encounters. Given the design of most US buildings, the distances involved in traffic stops, etc. I could imagine that 21 feet or less covers a whole heck of a lot of incidents. This is the interview I am going off of: As for using it for self-defense legalities, who is doing that? I haven't seen the 21-foot rule in any statutory law. It sounds like he experimented to determine something and came up with a pretty good jumping off point. 21 feet is round where it starts to get pretty frikin hard from a holster.

YES! You probably won't get in trouble with a normal one on a loose 5.56 chamber, but a small base will work with most everything without significantly impacting brass life (assuming youa ren't going down the road of annealing your cases). I'm getting near my second round of reloading, and if my brass attrition is consistent, all my original brass will be gone in less firings than I'd worry about. Also forgot about savings. I can reload nice accurate 55gr polymer tipped bullets in processed once fired lake city I throw away over a charge of TAC and appropriate small rifle primers bought when I hit cabelas for approximately $440.00 per thousand. You can do a case of 77gr SMK ammo for about $530 per thousand. And that's being lazy. If you can manage to keep enough brass to average 3000 loadings out of 1000 initial pieces of brass (i.e. average 3 loadings per case, load some more, some less due to loss), You can shave $100 off those prices. Lazy method with cheap 55gr bulk bullets, it's about $350 the lazy way, and $250 if you average 3 loadings per case. Wolf is $210, but it's significantly better ammo than wolf and kinder to your barrel, extractor, and ejector. (DIY ammo is about MOA out of my gun, current production wolf 55gr is between 2-2.5 moa form the same gun/shooter/optic combo. Velocity is similar, but mine seems to generate slightly more gas which drives the comp better IMO, but it's close).

Can you save a lot reloading .223? yes. It is time consuming though. Especially the initial brass preparation if you are starting with brass that has crimped primers. Short of spending the cash on a super 1050 set up for .223, I'm not sure much beats batch reloading on my turret where I can seat and crimp in quick succession. For blasting ammo, you probably do not need to chamfer and clean the primer pockets like Dan suggests. You definitely don't need to chamfer, just make sure it is trimmed to length. If you are loading flat based bullets, you will WANT to chamfer. To reduce trimming ot length chores, there is the RCBS x-die, which is designed to prevent case growth due to resizing. It works reasonably well. There are a bunch of people who basically go through the initial case prep, Run it through the x-die, and if it is out of spec toss it under the assumption that means they have reloaded it about 5-6 times. The use something like the possum hollow trimmer for trimming quickly, and buy once fired brass to start without a primer crimp or with the crimp already removed. I can't say I've found the optimal setup, but I can say if you are going to batch load there is some gear I have found to be stand out in terms of performance. -RCBS trimmer with 3-way cutter. Without dropping serious cash on a giraud trimmer, or a 1050 with the power case trimmer, I have not seen a faster way to trim and chamfer cases. -hornady lock-n-load powder measure. I haven't found a better powder measure for the money. There are better, but you jump form $62+/- to about $150 with a very small gain in performance. -satern funnels. They are aluminum and brass. Yes you will go WTF?!?!??! $12 for a funnel? I will guarantee you that they are worth every penny over a "static free" plastic funnel. With a stick powder like varget, it cut the time to drop each charge easily in half. For a fine ball powder like BL-C2 or TAC, They are nearly as fast as gravity. (literally, I had to take the reducer for small neck brass out of my powder drop to avoid ahving to wait on the powder measure). I've got a bunch of other .223 reloading gear, but largely it is interchangeable with lots similar stuff from multiple manufacturers. If you are nervous starting out, varget and 55gr bullets are a pretty safe combo. I don't think you can actually fit enough powder in the case to hit max pressure for the bullet. Metering it is a giant PITA, as is trying to gets consistent OAL curshing the powder for a compressed load, but serious over charges are NOT happening with it.

For the sales where the ammo prices are unbelievable, it is usually because they are priced as a loss leader. When they do that, they send a specific quantity of inventory to a given store and when it is gone, it is gone. This isn't some evil plot. Dicks ahs sponsored shooting matches in NJ, and is a pretty convenient place to get shotgun ammo at decent prices. For those alone, I'll keep on buying what I buy from them.

.45 plus steel isn't usually the recommended formula. For a 1911, a 9mm with lighter loads will play the game much better. With .45, by the time you slow down the bullet enough to cut recoil to anything near the 9mm in a 1911 level, you risk intact bullets bouncing back at you. At least static steel. Knockdown steel is a different matter. A lighter .45 bullet loaded on the light end of the scale, in a 5" gun transitions pretyt nicely, has decent recoil, and will definitely still knock stuff down.

Nah, I know plenty of guys who think it is a turd of a movie. I personally think it varies highly in the quality of the execution, is horrifically long and boring, and those two combined makes it feel very meandering and poorly focused. The characters range from beige to unlikable, and even if they WERE likable, you would hate them after being stuck in a waiting room with them prattling on for three hours... four plus if it is on a channel with commercials. I hate watching golf on TV, and I'd rather watch golf than the godfather in a heartbeat. I might have to think about which one I'd prefer if you gave me the choice of a c-span 2 quality filibuster, or the godfather. As for what I'llw ind up watching when I didn't even intend to jsut because I saw it was on... the list is too long. There are tons of good and or fun movies.

It's just a referral site. My question is how long before amazon stomps them for trying to look like amazon and infringing their trademark.

The 5.11 one is an actual product, just not one of theirs The utilikilt. $60 would be a killer price for it too.

Oh I know you got a good deal. I like federal match stuff. I still have a couple 50 round boxes of federl UMB1 sititng around that I snagged for $4.95 a piece, street price when you could still find it was about $14. INSANELY accurate stuff. My bread and butter, accuracy for the money round was federal 711B which nobody stocks around here anymore. I can find Eley, but I prefer federal. I don't go through it that fast, so I also prefer someplace local-ish that I can walk in and buy a brick or two and maybe some other annoying to ship goodies like cleaning rods, targets, etc.

So was it an expensive 2 day krav maga course? because reading between the lines, that's what it sounds like on their website.

One of the members here has one. It's OK. Given the profile, you would think it has tubes along the side for batteries or whatever, but it has a little hatch in the bottom that is a very small space. Maybe a bit bigger than the storage space in a miad grip, but shaped differently. If it was $50 I'd say a very good option for a budget build. At the price, I'd say only if you think it looks awesome. It isn't lighter or more rigid than an ARFX stock.

ar500 vs 5.56 at under 100 yards is dodgy. IT depends on your velocity at 2700-2800 fps out of a 16" barrel using soft points, I've shot 3/8" ar500 without real damage at 50 yards. I've also seen 3/8" autopoppers from MGM get chewed up pretty bad at 75 yards. They are in theory AR500 as well, but MGM's site doesn't say that.

Your dad's stupid. Confirm your suspicions from teenagerdom and move on.