raz-0

Thing is, if that were so they wouldn't have been prohibited under the 94 ban. One thing to keep in mind is that the direct form the side comparisons are about as favorable as you can get for the FSC556. go to e 3/4 front view and you can see hoe much more visible it is. Here's a decently done comparison video form the side. Here's one that is just the FSC556 with and without suppressor, but form 3/4 view. It gives you a good idea how much more flash you see form the front. The FSC mostly jsut keeps the gases from in front of your sights and off the ground. From the side it looks like smaller flash. From the front, it looks like tow big gas jets with an X of sparks. Even from the side, in the video above you can tell there's a massive difference between the FSC and proper flash suppressors.

I haven't seen a review by anyone with the .50 cal, just a .308/338 setup. Their opinion was that for the price you could get a better .338 platform, and for the cost of a conversion, you could field a pretty decent .308 without adding much weight for a trip tot he range. The trigger was the nicest they had experienced in a bullpup, but was not that good compared to many affordable drop in aftermarket triggers for a 700 or savage. Basically that it was a decent gun, but unless a .338 in a bullpup configuration really tickled your fancy, you might have buyers remorse for the whole package.

Might want to get a spare slide stop for your 75b. It used to be covered under warranty. Now it is considered a replaceable wear item. It will crack at some point, which can vary, but I would suggest stocking spares to support a 10k interval at least.

I'm not going to vote because the choices are insufficient. Most of my care in rifle is taken with brass prep. I've tried the whole sorting by weight game, and find it mostly useless. For brass it makes minimal difference, and if you buy a quality bullet these days, there just isn't enough variance for me to care. As for trickling powder, I don't know if it is worth it if you buy in large lots and load in small ones. Most powders tend to like absorbing moisture, so you are better off getting a volumetric measure set up right for your prefered load while the jug is as fresh as possible, and trusting volume to be volume. If you are going to be anal, rather than all the sorting, you really want to spend time controlling neck wall concentrically and thickness, and runout, but that's more expensive than weighing stuff. For pistol, I load progressive, but I'm more anal than most after basically losing a season to ammo vs. chamber problems. My .40 gets push through sized before use, and every finished round gets case gauged.

I don't think their discussion of pressure signs and curves, case wear, etc. are equipment specific, and they go into more detail than most on it for less money. Their load data is just an aggregation of the powder manufacturer's data, so it's convenient, but very conservative. Like I said, you want two sources at least on load data. One of my books is the most god awful piece of editing and typesetting on the planet, but it has lots of interesting stuff on shooting and reloading during major recessions and raw material shortages form someone who was doing such form the 30s to the 70s. Lots of info on reloading berdan primed stuff, how much you could get away with shooting lead in a gas operated semi-auto rifle as long as you make it hard enough, reloading steel cased ammo, and other fun stuff. The lyman manual is good, but for the price, I can buy several manuals and wind up with more info overall, especially with the advent of loading info on the internet form both powder manufacturers AND bullet manufacturers.

No, the locking lugs get fit to the frame correctly, and the link size follows so you get proper lockup. If you fit your lugs to delay unlocking too long, your gun has a problem and is going to get damaged. There's fit right, and there's not fit right. I've never seen anyone talk about messing with a good fit to get a 1911 cycling a certain way. Timing of the gun is controlled by the load, the recoil and main spring, and the angle you put on the firing pin stop.

No, it isn't coincidental. It's part of how you control the timing of the gun, which is in fact part of it's basic function. Yes, the locking lugs bear a great deal of force, but another area subject to significant forces is the impact face of the frame. Shoot a hotter round, you have no choice but to wear things faster, but there is as fast as you have to, and as fast as you can. Playing the spring game can keep it down to as fast as you have to. Right on the first part, which is why you don't want to use mroe spring than you need for a round if you want maximum lifespan of the firearm. However, shoot a hotter round, and what's optimum changes. Yes, once again hotter round = more wear. I never said otherwise. However it will NOT increase recoil. A given bullet X imparts a certain amount of energy. That energy is going into the gun other than what gets turned into heat when the spring compresses, which is negligible. By and large take the same load, and stick a lighter spring under it, and people will tell you the recoil impulse is sharper. Mainly because you get more flip as the push comes suddenly when the light spring gets compressed quickly and the slide smashes into the impact face of the frame. Put a heavier spring in and the recoil impulse tends to get a bit more pushy as the impulse is spread out over the longer period to compress the spring. You tend to get the whole gun moving rather than muzzle flip, but you also risk getting muzzle dip on return to battery. Seriously? Bullet weight and velocity are interelated with pressure like Watts = Volts x Amps. I would guess JMB focused on pressure because copper discs in a test fixture were probably easier to integrate into a QA test for production that the math involved in using a ballistic pendulum to measure velocity. Today, modern timing circuits make it much simpler ot measure velocity. No, you said something between inaccurate and apocryphal, and when called on it replaced it with a more accurate statement. What you described initially would have ot be magic. What you replaced it with is closer to reality. In that I would tend to agree with you. although +P in 9 and .45 isn't that absurd, especially in a modern firearm. 9mm with it's subgun history is very capable of being run much hotter than the factory pistol loadings we have, and moder guns have the toughness to take it in stride given they are usually good to go for ammo that is as abusive as +P 9mm. .45 +P is still so low pressure that given modern metallurgy, you probably aren't pushing things too far. +P+ I feel is just stupid, If the manufacturer needs to go past +P pressures to get the projectile to perform, they need ot work on their projectile.

They are nice little guns. Trigger is so-so. for the price it isn't bad.

Really, so the slide doesn't slow any compressing the recoil spring or main spring eh? Doesn't store up any kinetic energy or anything like that? That's some slick physics magic. JMB figured out the right weight spring for 230gr ball ammo going about 830fps. Change the weight of the bullet, or the velocity of the bullet, and optimum spring weight changes. Also, just because JMB came up with an optimum wieght doesn't mean that is what shipped in any particular gun manufactured today. Also, if you are just going to feed your gun expensive +P+, might as well get a .460 rowland conversion kit and be done with it.

Is this viral ad getting pushed again for the DVD relase or something?

Not from ruger you can't. volquartsen sells a barreled action too. Both will cost you WAY more than buying a 10-22 and throwing the bits you don't want away. Clark and STI also used to make them, and at a more reasonable price, but not any more as far as I can tell.

Let's put it this way. You'll shoot worse than the gun. If you put in the time to be insanely accurate, you already know who will build you a gun with guaranteed accuracy above and beyond a production pistol. Note, it won't be a run of the mill custom pistol. Unless you are prepared to drop some serious cash on a pistol, you will spend a LOT more on the ammo to practice getting good. If you are shopping in the over $4k range, the odds of you spending half on the gun and half on ammo to get decent is pretty low unless you are some kind of phenom. You can get pretty good guns under $800k that will take you pretty far.

http://roseactionsports.com/shotguns.aspx Have had them cut down and thread my shotgun. Turnaround was quick and work was well done. Cutting to lenght, new bead, and threading was $90 including return shipping. I suspect jsut threading is cheaper.

A second for the M&P. If you are looking at the glock and the XD, you should be looking at the M&P as well.

I don't put any of my opinions or affiliations on my car unless required to. You don't need to know me very well to know I'm into guns, but strangers don't need to know jack about me, and my vehicle gets a lot of face time with strangers. Like I siad, this extends well beyond guns.

Personally, for learning I like the lee reloading manual. They have a LOT of good info in the howto half, and it is cheap. You want at least two howtos, and at least two load guides, so you can compare their info. Anyplace they disagree, go online and do some research in forums and on websites to see if you can find a tie breaker or a more detailed explanation to make it make sense.

I really do have to wonder who thought it was a good idea to push things so far that the governments disapproval equals being disappeared down the hider hole for good. If speaking your mind can cause that, you might as well just shoot them if you don't like them. If it passes unamended, I wouldn't be suprized to see a bill to strike it with very little fat attached. Nothing makes for good campaign fodder like saying my opponent supports imprisoning us citizens without due process.

Get used to that pain. Especially as you get to high b levels if you can't stop caring about match points at the classifier. You'll know you didn't kick butt, sandbag a little to try and not screw your average, and get whacked wit the high 50s/low 60s and need 6 decent performances to erase it. A gives you a lot more freedom if you just feel like getting stage points for the match. You should have no problem getting a if you don't slack off. Master will take a lot of free time and some regular live fire practice I suspect.

That's what I said when I got my c card. I actually practiced and junk. Got my b card like 5 months later. The a card took 6 more years. Like I said the b card isn't that hard. Shooting solid b level at matches is much harder, because you need b level movement, and the classifies are pretty much stand and shoots. If you want the card, a timer, some dry fire practice, and Steve Anderson's refinement and repetition will make a huge difference. He breaks down all the classifier skills into easy to practice chunks. If you want to shoot high b level at a match, it'll take more, but it should improve your shooting foundation.

Btw, the lightbulb thing was just defunded. The reality is as we headed into the 60w "ban" even LEDs wouldn't be ready to meet the efficiency goals.

Getting out of c and into b isn't as hard as it seems. B is a huge PITA. You can screw up pretty bad and it still counts so you do a LOT of dragging your average back down. You're aiming for 75 to get out, and everything down to 55 counts.

Polygonal rifling aside, you don't use lead in a DE because the lead will fould the gas port. It's a gas operated pistol.

1lb=7000 grains. It's simple math.

That doesn't assure you that the case hasn't been weakened, just that it hasn't lost any mass. I'm not saying that steel media would cause thinning ina case wall, but it might peent he neck over a bit and increase the likelihood that the normal reloading process can damage it.

Peak was about 750 a month centerfire. average for a long time was 475. Now, it's probably less than 300. It's time, not money.