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If you are doing a build form scratch, with the TRX, you got the tube, the barrel nut, and the barrel nut wrench for like $175. Now, you get the tube. As far as I can tell you now need to get a factory barrel nut, and a barrel nut wrench, and it is like $185. Hore hassle, less stuff, for a higher price. Not that they are out of line with other products on the market, but their product used to be a nicer package and better value for the dollar. Now they are priced slightly more than about 5 other tubes with similar weight and construction. They don't suck, they just went from a great dela to an average product in one go unless there's something non-obvious about the alphas.

6+1. That 1 isn't in the magazine, it is in the chamber, so how is it magazine capacity? Heck, the AWB limited magazine capacity to 10, and it wasn't like everyone was selling 9 round magazines. Choate makes a +2, and nordic components makes one. Nordic costs more, but is WAAAAYYYY nicer. It is also 3 parts, so if you leave NJ, you jsut buy the middle bit and a spring and you can have whatever capacity you want. Also you cna get different end caps is you are going to run a longer follower to prevent binding (I'm running an S&J hardware type 2 follower). The least obvious part is popping the little doohickey that is under the forend cap out of the magazine tube because it doesn't look like it is meant to come out. You just take some needle nose pliers and pry it up a little on one side, a little on the other until you have wiggled it out. The hardest part is trimming the magazine spring that comes with it to the proper length. There's osme trial and error, but mostly it's jsut very hard spring steel and PITA to actually clip. It took me about 20-30 minutes being careful and figuring stuff out. If I did it again it's probably be about 10, and 8 of that would be messing with the spring and applying some anti vibration compound ot the threads for peace of mind. Noridc stuff is here: http://shop.nordiccomp.com/NC-Shotgun-Accessories_c4.htm Choate tube is here: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/172175/choate-magazine-tube-extension-with-sling-swivel-clamp-mossberg-930-12-gauge-2-round-parkerized aimpro tri rail is here: http://aimprotactical.com/aimpro_tactical_930_tri-rail_forend.htm

See, that's the issue for me, I don't think most reviews need to be 10-15 minutes long. Learn to edit and get to the point. Heck, I've seen videos on how to assemble an AR-15 form parts that are shorter than a lot of reviews on AR-15s.

Did you crank down the screws hard? I've put mine on and taken it off probably a dozen times, and I've had no issues with the helicoils, but I also actually follow the instructions on how much to tighten it. I'm interested in how the alpha mounts and how reliable it is to stay in place and not rotte without the screws backing out. I like the TRX rails, but I'm not sure I dig the alphas being simpler, requiring parts it doesn't ship with, and costing more. Should the need arise for a new one, I might move to the apex forearm.

It may be a matter of perspective. I've lived in several towns and have gone through the permit process multiple times. So far, they have all been professional and polite, and generally took about 60 days with one set of pistol permits taking about 38 IIRC. However, I ahve a bunch of friends who I helped through the process. Most of them experienced similar with about 60 days give or take. Two townships all the work was done by the police (no clerks), and the police were total a-holes about it, those took a bit over 90 days. Lots of folks who have had to deal with the worse times and attitudes think 60 days and not being treated like a criminal is "reasonable."

Wow, you are sutpid. See... I'm not form monmouth county, thus I'm not form your town. Thus I can't actually... you know. GO TO YOUR FREAKING TOWN FOR A PERMIT. The only people who could go there iwth a misconsception are people who HAVE TO GO THERE. Guess what, if you have to go there and are unhappy with their performance, not much is going to change that. The only thing you might be able to do is cause some folks to mistakenly think positively of them. If you are paranoid of a public forum, then close the web page and seriously consider not coming back.. It'll keep you safer.

that's because that's what the VPC and brady talking points tell them to do. They want to ban person to person sales, and they think the path to success is to scare joe idiot into believeing you cna just order off a website no questions asked. They also seem to ignore the fact that the federal government can't regulate intrastate commerce. So...

Ask around at a USPSA match, you'll see plenty of worn and shiny glocks.

It's not necessarily good. Amazon warehouses have a pretty solid track record for high churn, firing with "cause" due to abusive workplace practices, OSHA violations, and pretty low wages that will probably leave most of their employees still qualifying for 90% of the government handouts they receive even if they are hired. It's about $12/hr, but good luck being employed for long. nThey seem to take lessons on how to screw over the workers form both wal-mart and best buy.

You want a brutal holster, let some sand get in a leather one. 25 draws tells me the ppq has a pretty delicate finish. I have a gun done in ionbond, which is HARD compared to most other finishes. It took two years, but I'm finally getting holster wear. I've got it on my melonited guns, parkerized guns, Teflon and epoxy coated guns, blued guns, etc. You want maximum life, get a thick nickel boron plating. It'll take a good long time to wear through. Shoot it enough, and everything wears.

Heck, you cna bump it up to 6 rounds and it's legal. That's what I did. Cheapest way to get a light on it is get a +2 tube, and a nordic magazine tube clamp with rail segments. Then you can mount any of your wepon lights, or get a v-tac plastic light mount. Or you can get the aimpro tri-rail and mount any rail mountable light on it. I also have one of those on mine. THe aimpro guys were not that easy to get ahold of to give them my money though.

Ok.. it says PSYCHIATRIC, PSYCHIATRIST, or DOCTOR. That means an MD. Implied in that terminology is one having a condition serious enough to warrant treatment with medication. Your average therapist, you are lucky if htey are a PhD or PsyD, usually they have a degree in social work and some certificates. For Q26, if you were not being treated by someone who could prescribe you DIRECTLY (i.e. not by calling up their buddy who finished big boy med school), not checked into mental hospital, or not treated at a mental hospital on an outpatient basis, the answer is no in my opinion as that is what the question specifically asks. If you are on anti-psychotics, MAOIs, seratonin re-uptake inhibitors, anti-anxiety meds like halcyon, lithium or any crap where your perception of reality goes to hell if you come off it because you think you are all better now, or makes you see/hear things, encourages sucidal ideation, or otherwise makes you not interpret reality well at times BECAUSE you are tkaing it, then you should probably answer yes in my opinion.

Ok, if you don't have word or powerpoint, you can download Open office at http://www.openoffice.org/ If you do use open office and wnat to submit anything, make sure you export the page with the diagram as a pdf file, as there cna be some issues going back and forth between word and OO with these templates. For tmeplates, you cna download them all zipped up at the following URL. http://bloodimage.com/stage_building_examples.zip

One day late? No, that doesn't happen. They have to report the account in delinquency for it to appear on your credit, and they wait way more than one day for that. One day late, will however get your rate for the card jacked, mainly because they are waiting for any excuse to do that. I've missed a couple of payments by the due date, mostly in the early days of electronic payments where things didn't go quite right. Not a one showed up on any credit report ever. But we are talking literally missing the grace period by one or two days. Almost nothing official happens in less than 30 days, including credit reporting.

Hmm new to reloading, and you aren't worried about making ammo for someone else. You are EXACTLY who shouldn't be making ammo for someone else. Did I mention not following the manufacturing laws is a felony?

To sell ammo you reload, you need to be licensed as an ammo manufacturer. If you reload using a persons components, you don't, but you will need liability insurance, and will want to form an llc to protect you from lawsuits To load rifle safely, you need a press, a powder scale, a powder measure, a case trimmer, some case lube, and a case gauge. This plus a loaded, in spec piece of ammo, and you can load safe rifle rounds. You'll probably want some more kit to go for maximum accuracy and for convenience

The deal with sti/sv mags is that they all interchange. At least as much as they work right without a little tlc in the first place. That's mainly do to low volume of production, and tolerances for the molds for the grips and mag dimensions stacking. By and large, I find the 15 round 126 mags with the factory follower to work well. The shorter tubes seem to be more rigid, and thus you are more likely to get one that is in spec. Most of the really bad problems seem to stem from people trying to make the 140s hold 21.

I'll post some tools and templates with some guidance on what works for what. I've been a bit occupied as my kid decided that for his first birthday a raging fever and a visit to the ER was the way to go.

You can engrave a gun, you think all those tacky guns with a buttload of scroll work all come from the factory? You can't deface, obscure, or move the serial number. There are also batfe requirements to have a manufacturer's mark on the gun. So if you wanted to etch something in a blank space on your AR, it really isn't a problem.

Here, I'll explain it. People bash a lot of occupations in general. Cops get it in specific because we know what they do, and we see them out there doing it, kind of like teachers. However, cops get it extra hard because they don't leave us alone. Why don't regular people leave cops alone? Because they don't leave us alone is the short answer. We have specifics to gripe about. When you bust people for speeding, and drive around with a thin blue line sticker on your car, and then lots of you give that car a free pass.. people don't like it, you are screwing with us while taking privilege form your position when none is apportioned by law. You bust us for using cell phones, while half the cruisers have the driver yakking away on theirs. More of that privilege taking. I'm only touching on generalities. I can come up with a lot of real world examples of MUCH, MUCH worse without even having to hit up a news report. Add them in and the bad apples get pretty bad. But I'm jsut trying to illustrate that for a lot of people, bad police behavior is not some general thing, but can be boiled down to specifics. Try to find someone who never had a bad episode dealing with police, and I bet you don't find too many people. The world is full of a-holes. I don't think cops as a population are more than one standard deviation away form the average. The problem is that when they are, they are a-holes with authority and their job is to drive around and try and inflict that combination on you whenever they look not busy enough. So in the end, the bad ones are a-holes with authority whose job description includes seeking you out and subjecting you to it. Ask even a reasonable cop to choose who they are backing with limited information, and they'll choose the a-hole in uniform. That makes the reasonable guy look like one of the a-holes. The rate of a-holes in the world of politicians probably tops every other demographic. They also have authority, but by and large they don't interfere in my personal space trying to prove it. When they make a bad law, you don't worry about the politician showing up, you worry about the cop showing up. Even the reasonable cops will say "hey, that's our job." True, but if you enforce the laws of a-holes, you look like an a-hole. Then there's the matter of degree. When I was a teenager, I know plenty of people who got whacked with a ticket that represented about 1/3 of a weeks worth of full time minimum wage pay. They didn't get away with something that the cop could get away with. That was pretty run of the mill "bad" experience, and in the grand scheme, not too bad. There weren't a lot of folks who could be financially screwed by that. These days, for a similar ticket, you can be looking at about $200, or 2/3 of a week of minimum wage labor. Without going up the severity level (heck sometimes with less points than the speeding ticket) you can hit $500-750 in fines pretty easily for stuff cops get away with. For a LOT of the population, that causes severe financial hardship. From the public's position, that privilege taken by officers not afforded by law is getting to be pretty significant in the grand scheme of things. Sure, you probably think it is a stupid law, but you probably would still enforce it if your superiors said it was going to be key on your performance review. So for the guy that has to figure out how to pay for food this month because you picked him to fill the quota, how do you think you look? Even if you didn't have to, that guy whose side you take blindly did it multiple times, so...

I've done a fair amount of reading on this trying to get a sound answer. Basically, from the science types that try to figure this stuff out, and the answer is that pretty much everything with a .223 is a compromise. The two things you don't want are a very thin walled varmint hollow point, or very thin varmint round with a ballistic tip. At close range they both fragment severely and not into very large chunks, and they do so at < 8" of penetration. They largely seem to be following the FBI guideline of 12" of penetration. Except they don't seem to apply that to larger calibers. On the top of their list for effective up close and far away were the following. 1) Heavy hollow point match bullets - they maintain more energy farther out, and at longer ranges you tend to get at least 2 decent sized chunks creating a permanent wound cavity. One form the lead, and one ormore from the jacket. Up close, You tend to get similar performance although it's usually just a portion of the lead part and a portion of the jacket, usually the base. 2) Heavier bonded soft points. They do most of their damage form expansion and tend to stay in one piece. They tend to fragment into 2 or more larger chunks up close and fast, and at longer ranges they simply expand and create a decent sized wound channel. They come wit the caveat that the soft point can cause the feed ramps to foul and cuase feeding issues without frequent maintenance. (I think this might be a full auto with a carbine gas system and recoil buffer issue. I've been testing out some JSP loads and I'm 500 rounds in on a midlength with rifle buffer, and I'm not even seeing lead on the feed ramps, much less a build up that would cause fouling.) 3) 100% gilding metal varmint rounds. The projectiles produce pretty awesome results. Up close they tent to fragment into the base and however many petals they were skived for (producing 3 or more permanent wound channels), and at range they tend to simply expand well and prod usce a single good wound channel. THe caveat on this one is that they are expensive, and they are light for size, which means you don't get as much energy down range, or as much resistence to wind drift as the above two options. IMO, what research that has been done has somewhat fuzzy results that's not entirely to be trusted for several reasons. Just a couple are that they were all done to recommend generic bullet types, but were done with a limited selection of projectiles form which they expanded the conclusions to fairly wide product categories. The bonded soft point and gilding metal conclusions are probably solid because the offerings are so limited that it appears they would have had to represent most of the available offerings or tack down something that isn't sold to the general public or marketed anywhere. THe hollow tip match conclusion and vamrint conclusion disregard a LOT of bullets on the market, some with markedly different construction from others.

You can get behavior that is kind of like the OP's description if the sear spring isn't installed with all the legs where they belong.

So which of you guys who attended want to jump into designing stages? It's really the other half of fully understanding the game, and it doing it will make you a better USPSA shooter. Anyway, seriously. We always have a need for more stage designers at CJ and old bridge, and we try to mentor a lot for new designers if you need/want it. If you are interested, PM me you email info, and which clubs you are interested in OB or CJ, and we will get you included on the email lists for stage designers.

I don't know that they really do. THey wanted it as an inventory lot, and I don't think the number of extra cars you could park there would be worth the cost of knocking it down.

If looking for designs, do we have some preferred color choices? Also, any templates or guidelines from the shirt makers. I know the dye sub shirts have issues with pure white and thus color correction issues with light colors, but I know they have changed materials a few times since the last I looked at any of this.