raz-0

ATF accepted blind pinning as well. SO drill and tap a hole and drill into the threaded part of the barrel some. Put ina grub screw, and cover with silver solder or a blob of weld and file it down to match the profile. Brownells has some pretty trick silver solder paste that's not cheap, but is pretty easy to apply and qualifies. I can say form experience there are high tech adhesives that SHOULD count. A friend used it on a set screw style smith comp that he ahd stripped the screw holes on. Getting it back off required mangling the comp. It was somewhere between the process needed to remove an armilite AWB blind pinned muzzle brake, and removing a silver soldered comp. Less dremeling than the former, less heat than the latter, but a huge PITA.

fobus vs. the cz 75b. Boil pot of water. put fobus holster in pot of water in such a manner that it does not rest on the bottom. Let sit for 5 minutes. Using something to protect your hands remove the holster, and insert your gun. let cool. If it is still tight, repeat but bump up the soak time. When done, disassemble and clean your gun in a manner appropriate for a gun exposed to lots of moisture. You will either get a more usable holster by the end, or have trashed it. (usually you wind up with something you can use for a while but has a shortened life span). P.S. Fobus sucks. Buy something good. But the above should get you through the wait for an order to be filled by any of the good brands if you can't find one in stock someplace.

There's only two reasons to break in a barrel. The chamber is cut badly, or the rifling is cut badly, and you need to "smooth" something out through wear. To do that, you can either shoot a lot of wasted ammo through the gun, or you can pursue some form of lapping. If your barrel is chrome lined, you aren't going to smooth anything out anytime soon with just shooting. If you run lapping compound through it you might get through the chrome in a timely manner, but you will ahve ruined the barrel by doing so. So chrome lined = just shoot it. If it is not chrome lined, just shoot it. If your gun has an accuracy problem, then you troubleshoot. If you can narrow that accuracy problem down to the barrel, you might try lapping it before you replace it with a barrel that isn't messed up. This can save you some money, on the other hand, it can also do absolutely nothing. About the only category of rifle where I have seen consistent positive results from lapping (i.e. the majority of people doing it see improvement) are lever guns, and it has to do with the level of QC on what are cheaper guns plus how and when they make all the cuts and attach bits to get the barrel bands on and magazine tubes attached. The manufacturing process often deforms the inside of the barrel some, and lapping cna smooth out a lump and make things better. The only other place I see it do anything useful are if you are a high end precision shooter. Hence things like the tubb finish fire system. It's useful to him because he shoots out a LOT of barrels. He's in the business of perfect practice makes perfect. He doesn't care if he shaves 10% off the life of a barrel as long as it means he doesn't waste time on less perfect practice because his barrel hasn't settled into the sweet spot it will shoot to for the longest period. (hint: folks like that will retire a barrel with 10% of accurate life left on it for the sake of consistency too).

I've seen people have issues with slower ammo and mid-length gas systems on a 14.5" barrel. Cold weather likely makes things worse. IMO for 1" extra length, you get more velocity and less potential hassles. So, that's what I recommend. I put the 14.5" + midlength gas system in the same boat as 18" barrels and rifle length gas systems. It works for a lot of people, SHOULD work all the time, but there's a reason companies like noveske make their 18" with a mid length gas system. For me, I tend to value accuracy, soft recoil impulse, handiness, and reliability. The 14.5" when you have to have a pinned stock might be the deal if you want minimal overall length, but for me just isn't worth it. The 18" barrels, there's more room for ambivalence in my worldview on what a rifle should be. But when talking a non-NFA carbine, if I lived where collapsible stocks were legal, I'd not care about 1" of barrel length for a muzzle device ont he compact scale even less. Most of my assessment is subjective. The objective bit is you are moving a bit farther form asking for issues balancing your gas system, and you get other benefits for it. One of the reasons I like the ARFX stock is that with the normal pad it is a-2 length. With the x-long pad, it is over a-2 length, without any pad it is a-1 length. So it is reasonably adaptable to different sized shooters and stances. Most of my preference for a fixed stock is that you can't have a proper collapsible stock in NJ, and with a rifle buffer system, you disturb your sight picture less. As for the stock trigger, One of the main reasons for avoiding them IMHO is QC. The nicest mil-spec triggers I have felt are usable. About 6 lbs pull with a smooth pre-travel and a bit of overtravel with some creep in them. The worst however are REALLY bad. Like the one I got on my ar-10. Pull was over 12 lbs. Creep for days, and the trigger pull felt like you were dragging a can of chunky soup down a gravel driveway with your trigger finger. BAD. Can mil-spec triggers be fixed? yes, but usually not without messing with either springs, which can cause light strikes on hard primers, and/or reshaping or polishing mating surfaces, which can go through the surface hardening. Most reputable aftermarket triggers at this point are through hardened, good quality steel that is EDM wire cut, and the spring choices are made by people who know more than I do about balancing things out so they work right. So I give them money and avoid wasting expensive ammo dealing with hassles form a cheap trigger. I also have a personal preference for 2-stage triggers, but thats me. If doing a DIY build, I recommend trying what comes int he lower parts kit before buying a better trigger. However, if I am paying someone else to build it, I'd pay for something better. I listed the Giselle trigger above as a compromise of not too pricey with good QC and decent feel. I know what I like, and that's not what I would buy myself though. The SSA isn't my first choice. It's just a not too expensive conservative choice that I don't feel bad recommending over the pot luck prize in a LPK. As for the battle comp, everyone seems to say it isn't bad. But there are definitely more effective comps out there for less money. An effective comp is a good thing in my world, so I skip the battlecomp. It's a decent choice if your measurement of compromise includes quiet, price, and comp effectiveness, just not my cup of tea. My main point was that one should know why they want it, and what youa re compromising on, not that it is crap. Anti walk pins are a good thing IMO. I have ones that will rotate, but not walk out. They have little e-clips. Unfortunately simple basic anti-walk pins aren't as available as they used to be unless you get them with your trigger kit. The KNS pins are anti-walk and readily available, if pricier than necessary because they also prevent rotation and thus are more complicated in design than a pin with a groove in it.

Stage didn't suck, the shooters did. I count myself among them. NONE of those shouts should have been hard to get Cs or better on, yet somehow we made it so. Being familliar with the pit, it's about 30 yards to the end of the berm. If you were at the front of the box, you were probably between 26-28 as a rough guess. BAH! Sacrilege! Ok, it did suck some. I share an office with the designer (I did pit 7 at the 3 gun), and we discussed it in depth after the fact. In retrospect forcing brokeback proone both strong side and weak side was probably a bad idea and it would have been better to make a single really low port facing the back berm with constrained space that would have forced an uncomfortable position at the end, but not a transition form side to side. Also, when we found more braces just before the match started, we should have taken the time to brace the walss for the starting port better.

I did woodbridge in 2001 when I moved there, and did handgun permits several times thereafter. The whole shebang at the start was 6 weeks give or take a day. The subsequent permits were 4-6. Last permit was around dec 2008, and I no longer live there.

Just to correct/expand on some of slav's stuff. 1) yes there are stands. No it's not "any" distance. Too close and they will cause you to hit the floor or ceiling even when you don't miss if you are the right height. IIRC we ahve markings out for them up to 21 or 25 feet. 2) Yes, the outdoor range is rented month by month. Yes, the developer was in court with the town. Bad news is he won over a year ago, and can build residential units on it. "Good" news is that the federal govenrment odnated the adjacent lots to old bridge in an attempt to stick the township with costs associated with the land. "Bad" news is that OB did a study of the contamination, and the ground is polluted badly. "Good" news is that between that, the recession, and having to clean up the dirt form being a shooting range, the land owner has not yet chosen to develop anything on it. Also, if he wants to build an access road to the land, he either has to be granted an easement on the old bridge owned property, and they don't like him. Build it on the side we already have an access "road", which has a natural gas pipeline running the length, or get an easement from one of the other residential developments already built on the other sides (i.e. knock down someone else's construction). 3) pit/range availability. Weekdays the outdoors is deserted. Weekends it is pretty busy. The indoors is empty most hours during the week. We are in the process of trying to make it more clear what is accessible when, but it is a work in progress during people's copious free time. I don't think you will see anything for running targets out and back on the indoor range ever. This is due to the age of the range, and building code at the time. It allowed the place to be built short, and with a slope to it. Because of this, installing anything below the armored baffles means you would effectively make it so nobody could move freely down range. Between that and the expense, it is unlikely to happen. The OBRPC indoor range does not allow centerfire rifle. Not sure you are referring to access to the outdoor range or not, just trying to be clear.

How does the state based layer prevent that? Knowing people in NJ who have had to deal with that crap, I can tell you it doesn't.

OK, my $0.02 on the original build list. SPikes billet upper and lower are as good as any other, but WHY? Once you take out looking cool, the only reason for a billet upper is precision, and you get that by having it be more rigid and being machined to tight tolerances with true faces and concentric openings. Which is all well and good, but you then pair it with a 14.5" barrel. Which basically means an m-4 style fake. Which has to be 16" long in the end anyway. The only reason for a billet lower is... well to look cool, or for a really nice match to your billet upper. Yeah, you can get a flared mag well, but an arredondo mag well has a bigger opening than any of the billet lowers I have run into. So do you want light, or accurate. For light, I'd go with a good forged upper and lower with tension screw from any good manufacturer (firebird are good and reasonably priced, but there are many out there). For accurate, I'd go for any of the tons of matched billet uppers and lowers. For a compromise, whcih is what I actually did for my own, I'd get a decent forged lower with a tension screw, and I'd get something like the rainier arms billet upper. It's almost as light as a forged upper, but it is very well machined and not insanely priced. Then there's the barrel. Why 14.5"? You lose velocity and accuracy. Most 14.5" barrels are cut like an m-4, which means the grenade launcher cut, which is something nobody persuing accuracy would do to a barrel. So why not just a light 16" barrel? Additionally, with a 16" you can go for a mid-length gas system, whcih will help mellow out recoil This will help with accuracy and speed on follow up shots. Battlecomp 1.5 - the emphasis on these are making the noise go forward rather than being a comp. In my experience, unless you are near walls, it doesn't matter that much and I'd jsut get a comp. If you want something short on your 16" to keep overall length short, the nordic components tactical comp is short and pretty damn effective for it's size. It's also only $35. Piston system - just don't bother. The biggest problem with the AR platform for reliability is the fact that the dust cover doesn't close itself, and crap can get in. I've shot a lot of wolf through my gun, which isn't very clean, and 1200 rounds without a cleaning caused no issue, and wasn't even that hard to de-crapify after the fact. Spikes MP tested bolt assembly. It's GTG if you believe spikes is actually doing what they say regarding testing. There's a giant pissing contest over that form various makers right now. but a HPT/MPI bolt carrier group is a good thing. Mil-spec trigger. Good god no. Just no. If you were building a bargain basement gun sure. Something like the Geissele Super Semi-Automatic is a good reliable trigger for the money. Pinned CTR stock. I'm not a fan of pinning collapsible stocks. Because at that point you have a fixed stock, and if I'm going to ahve a fixed stock anyway, I have to ask what I am compromising on. First, I could just go with a rifle length tube and buffer. What would I get for this? 1 - no messing around with buffer weight guessing. The rifle length buffer is heavier than the carbines, and will absorb a harsh gas impulse. The spring is less beefy and longer, which means a more gradual return to battery. Go midlength gas system and rifle length buffer assembly, and you ahve a NJ compliant carbine with a rifle like recoil impulse. Wieght with arfx stock and rifle assembly is about 19.02 ounces. A ctr with carbine H2 assembly is 18.36 ounces. It's very close in weight. The only reason I'd even consider a pinned stock is if I were going to seriously commit to practicing with a sling and wanted to use something like the magpul ASAP. 7" lite rail. Go midlength on the gas system, and get a midlenght or full length rail. I recommend full length. If you brace it in a port, you want to be able to avoid burying yourself in the port, and you want to not use the abrrel to brace the rifle, but the free floated forearm. This reasoning is why you see a mess of dissipator style builds, and a lot of backup iron front sights are set up to be mounted on a forearm rather than on a gas block. BCM gunfighter medium chagring handle. Big yes on this. An awesome part worth every penny. MIAD grip is good, so are others. If you have big hands, MIAD is probably the best fit when set up right, and has decent storage that stays securely closed.

Also, all old bridge matches are open to the public. So if you want to actually shoot an event, you don't have to be a member, you can just show up with your gear and entry fee. Most disciplines don't have an issue with you observing, but you need to bring ear and eye protection. Part of the reason why OBRPC makes people participate and observe is that we are a competition heavy club. If you don't like participating, you are going to find a lot of prime time on the ranges taken up by competition. The outdoor range is largely booked for a good chunk of Saturday and Sunday, and the indoor range is booked several nights a week. The outdoor range on weekdays, and late nights at the indoors are pretty vacant though. You'll be lucky to ever see more than 4 or 5 people max.

Ugh.. When I said you can get an ar-10 that will hold MOA out to 100 yards at the end, I meant 1000 yards. If only I was typing what I thought I was typing, I'd get a lot more done in a day.

I took them myself. When I said I was doing their galleries, I meant from click to display. I was surprised how useful my 10-17 fisheye lens was for something that is regarded by many as a gimmick. It really let me stick the camera in places I couldn't otherwise.

Honestly, it ddepends on the gun and what you ahd done to it. You can make a VERY accurate ar-10. But out of the box, cheaper bolt actions will beat them. Take for example my ar-10 A4 vs my CZ-550 varmint out of the box. AR-10: 1-11 twist rate on a 20" H-BAR contour barrel with a recoil check, 8lb gritty creepy trigger. Best I could do wiht it was about 2 moa at 100 yards and was fighting it all the way. With decent ammo, I could pick off clays fairly quickly at 100 yards as it stays on target pretty well. Got it for $900 ($1077 adjusted for inflation to the year of the cz purchase). CZ-550: 1-12 twist rate on a 26" barrel, pillar bedded, single set trigget that breaks at 5.5lbs normal, 2lb set, has a fair amount of non-gritty creep in the normal mode. "free floated" barrel was not really free floated. About 1 MOA out of the box. Cost me about $725 delivered. AR-10 modifications: accuracy speaks adjustable butt pad, JP-rifles trigger which has to use heavy springs to not have light strikes, but is a nice clean crips 5lbs with little pre-travel or overtravel. new grips. Total outlay, about $275. Shoots basically the same, but is slightly less hassle to do so. It NEEDS a float tube if I want more out of it. That's probably going to run me about $400 all said and done. It also needs a different trigger more suited to the needs of the AR-10. Which basically means either a RRA 2-stage modified by someone who knows what they are doing for about $160, or a knight's 2-stage for about $320. I believe timney has a new one that deals with hammer mass in what looks like a sane manner. It's about $250. CZ-550: redid the pillar bedding and also bedded it with dev-con steelbed. Adjusted the factory trigger, and get 3.5lbs normal mode, and 9oz set mode. Barrel is now actually free floated. Now groups about .75 MOA, and I'm definitely the limiting factor there. Total cost, about $50. If you go for a AR pattern .308, I'd go with DPMS, it is the best bang for the buck in that area. Stay away form their sportical though as you really do want it free floated. If you want more than that, I'd just get one custom built. You can get an ar-10 that will hold MOA out to about 1000 yards. Of course you need to start with an ar-10, and add about $5000 to it in gunsmithing and parts. There are only a couple gunsmiths that will do it with any kind of guarantee, and you will have to WAIT. A lot. You want a bad ass 100 yard bolt-action, you can buy ready buiilt guns form a dozen manufacturers or smiths, and likely save 1-2 thousand on the price tag. [ET]

The only one I know is doing it are the world class steel folks. I know because I'm doing their galleries. Downrange photography that isn't the same thing over and over and over again is a huge PITA. We recently put on a pro-am match, which was actually pretty good for getting some more interesting shots. gallery is here: http://www.worldclasssteel.com/gallery/2009EastCoastPro-Am