raz-0

You can bitch and moan that someone isn't suing someone for you so you don't have to, but first you might want to ask what grounds would you be suing? I don't see a lot of opportunity to litigate against a state imposing additional regulatory burden on something federally regulated.

Here's the thing. If you make a deal, you have to go up and say that the officer had cause to pull you over. With speeding, the officer has to have a means of measuring it, and saying that that means is wrong may complicate the officer's life. With the signal, you have to give sufficient warning. You say you let it blink 4 times, he says he saw 3 and you didn't give the 200 foot margin or whatever is required, you plea and state he had cause, nothing gets complicated.

HE's explanation is good. bullets are not laser beams. silverado's graphic is conceptually near, except the 25 yard zero dot is gray, and doesn't appear to actually move on the target over distance, which is wrong. Plugging it in now, the 300 yard dot is wrong too as at 25 yards, you are still fighting sight offset and it would only be about an inch high. It's more or less right for 50 and 100 yard zeros though. IMO MV over 3200? Maybe 100 yard zero. MV under 3200, use a 50 yard zero. 50

The aero mounts are nice and light. and these days come win a variety of ring sizes. Great value for the money, and a great mount for the weight. I too give them a thumbs up. That being said, they do not have as much extension as an AD recon-X. This means that nose to charging handle won't work for a number of scopes. They'll pair great with a trijicon accupower 1-8x though. That doesn't need as much eye relief as the vortex razor HD.

IMO the right one to get is the recon-x. It's one of, if not THE, longest cntilevel on the market. WHich means you can get a nose to chargin handle cheek weld with most any optic you purchase. Don't like that, you can mount the scope further back in the rings and bring the mount back an notch. Also has two QD latches, so it's more secure. http://www.americandefensemanufacturing.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=8

I concur with shane45. I have ad mounts on most of my optics. A little heavy but work well and all my pic rail looks new. I think larue has a clever design, but it can chew up your rails.

Not steel core. Bi-metal jacket, copper washed steel jacket, zinc plated steel jacket etc. For a period back around maybe 2003-2004, wolf was steel cased copper jacketed. Currently, the ONLY steel cased ammo not using bullets that are a fire hazard for indoor ranges that I know of are the hornady steel match, and winchester forged brands. Cheap fucktards being what they are, I wouldn't risk my business and insurance policy by trusting they won't buy one box of that stuff and just dump in the cheapest shit they can find.

Tons of things. We just don’t insist on convincing each other they are wrong for the most part.

Something we actually agree on. Given the QC problems I have witnessed first hand with that stuff, sometimes no ammo is better ammo.

So all the steak aficionados in here... got a question. First time at a steakhouse, what do you order and how do you order it? I went for a tomahawk at a local place not having had one before and under the assumption that it's just combining a porterhouse with the flavor of a bone on steak and a little extra fat. I got a thing that was incredibly fatty, full of silver, and the "rare" was barely blue by my take. So, keep it simple, go for boring cuts and medium rare until you know that can do that right at least?

There's a map, It doesn't cover the whole town, but I'll bet it covers everything zoned for retail.

Same reticle as in the accupower except with windage dots. I have moa, moa It's pretty usable as a FFP reticle. I will warn you off green. I got that because I got a great deal on a barely used scope but it blends with nature a bit too easily, and it eats batteries quickly. The windage dots would be a good thing TM IMO.

meopta meostar R2 1-6x Not under $500. basically an a4 style reticle with a red dot in the middle.

Man I regret not buying a mateba when they were everwhere for $490. NOw they are over $1000 when you cna find them.

Given what's out there, I can't see anyone blowing anything out of the water. Vortex gets mentioned because they really did shake up the industry. It'd be hard trick to upset the status quo as much as they did. There's what the big dollar guys are doing. What is there vs the ~$1k quality entries isn't big enough to be huge news. The only things I can see as possible other than marketing BS is. 1) An affordable 1-10x scope, or even a 1-10x with good behavior comparatively to the decent 1-6 and 1-8 scopes at a reasonable but expensive price. Right now MArch has a 1-10x, but it's in their hunting line for a reason. Also, 8x is pushing it for usefulness. 10x unless FFP and with NO trade offs isn't going to be desirable for a lot of the LVD market. 2) Lghtness. THe grey ghost precision/ kruger KC6 carbon fiber scope shaves some weight and actually beats the weight of swaraovski. But they barely shipped any, and now they are not to be found. If Bushnell brings something liek that in set up well at 1-6x for $1299 msrp with a decent reticle and illumination, the LVD market will notice. Those are the biggest splashes I can imagine, and they still aren't going to be huge news. Probably not any bigger than bushnell shaving a couple hundred off their tactical elite 1-8x and making the various reticle sku properties less ambiguous would. I suspected the 1.1x thing might be moot. They all aren't true 1x if you are under several yards distance, buit the vortex razor and the trijicon accupower 1-8 do a real convincing job until you get to room scale distances. Even then it's pretty minor. The price of them definitely is not moot though. S&B aint cheap. Their new 1-8 short dot even claims to have a close quarters mode for true 1x at room scale distances. But it's also $4000.

Your humblebragging failed. Move it past 50 yards. Your standard paper plate is either 8 or 10 inches. Lets call it 8. At 50 yards that 16MOA you can bounce around and actually stick to your statement. A good comp with some decent technique you can basically double tap a 50 yard target and keep it to about 4"-5" spread. At 300 yards, that 16MOA of bouncing around is a 50" plate. The largest target you'll get at that range in competition is 18"x30" cut it down to what you get with a decent comp and you are now looking at 30". That's the difference between a minor correction to POA vs a major one. And that's assuming that you are using you are just using good form to get that minute of paper plate performance at 50. If you are plugging in your brain and eyeballs to only pull the trigger when you pass over the target, you are cutting it down form what the platform will do. From me testing out my new 3 gun upper and a new trigger, offhand, one sight picture and rocking the trigger as fast as possible, I was putting three shots into the above 4.5" area running sub 0.2 second splits. I own guns without good comps, they do not permit the same. Also without a timer, your definition of "fast" may be lacking. I can run a prepped and coated ALG trigger faster than I can run a pot luck mil-spec trigger, and I can run GOOD triggers faster than the ALG. For competition this all adds up over the course of a match form negligible to meaningful quantities of time.

It's long enough ago that my memory may be getting fuzzy on the details, but IIRC the short dot wasn't a true 1x, and was selling at an MSRP near $3k well the swarovski z6i was hitting the market. OR at least that's when a bunch of dudes with free samples were trying to convince the 3 gun market they needed something overpriced and not at the bleeding edge of capabilities. Also IIRC the initial iteration did not have locking turrets, but had turrets, and some other really not quite getting it stuff. It was hard trying to sell it as the right thing (tm) in 2008. It's definitely not the right thing now, although the current best of breed short dot is their 1.1-8x.

They have been on my list of things to maybe get. I've run into a lot of people quite happy with them. First question for trusting a gun store is do they have it in stock or would they have to order it. If they have to order it don't trust anything they say other than ' sure, let me look up the price and see if I can get any'.

This. Pretty much all 10/22 aftermarket barrels are bentz chambers as well, so makes it even worse. Also if going for accuracy, stick to subsonic in the 10/22. I have replkaced said pin with a synthetic buffer similar to what Parker posted. I recommend them over the coated steel ones as the coated steel ones can shred the coating faster than the all polymer ones give up the ghost.

Here's the thing with LPV scopes: Just because is says 1-4 on the side or 1-6 on the side or 1-8 on the side doesn't make them good or bad. If you are comparing the speed and usability of a LPV scope to a red dot, and feeling like you aren't having your cake and eating it too, you are likely not looking at a high quality LPV scope. Keep in mind, there are a number of high priced LPV scopes that get the formula wrong too. When the LPV market was entirely 1-4x scopes, nobody was doing it REALLY right. IMO the best scope optically for LPV use is the vortex razor HD 1-6x. It's got good clarity and the most forgiving eye box of all the LPV scopes I have run into. It's got mil/mil or moa/moa reticles vs adjustments, capped turrets that can't be knocked out of adjustment, every other poistion off, etc. US Optics produced a 1-6 that was virutally as good, but the vortex was cheaper, lighter, and had a better reticle. (dunno about the new $1300 US optics 1-6, never met one to date). Then you have the nearly as good scopes, which are still good enough, but you might find them to be a questionable value. The trijicon accupower 1-8, the sig tango 6, the bushnell 1-8. Swarovski z6i, etc. vortex viper PST GENII 1-6x, etc., primary arms platinum 1-8, trijicon v-cog 1-6, burris XTRII 1-8, etc. TONS of options here, but you are still paying ~$1k for the those that are breathing down the neck of the vortex razor, or make different trade offs. Then you have the affordable stuff like the vortex strike eagle and the $300 primary arms and such. Read the reviews and user feedback. Most of the ones people say nice things about are a genuinely good value for dollar, but you are heavily in trade off territory, and where they trade off are daylight visible dot and how much eye box you have to work in at any given power. You are essentially giving up ease of using the scope like a red dot with all of them. Then you have the cheap shit, and the $300 stuff from brands trying to look similar to the known brands and are just shady. Avoid those. The delta between the PA 1-4x scope and something like the vortex razor HD II 1-6x is WAY, WAY bigger than the difference between a PA micro red dot and an aimpoint micro H2. Things to value in a dot - how much light you lose to the AR coating, -how small is the dot and how uniform is it. -power efficiency. -toughness of the whole package. AT this point the holosun, bushnell and PA dots are giving up a little on the last one, and a more significant chunk on the first one. That's it. For LPVs, you care about -is the reticle useful without turning knobs. -is the reticle useful at all powers -is it daylight visible -does it have a red dot comperable dot. - is there lens distortion. - how big is the eyebox at 1x - is the eye relief consistent across the zoom range. -is it built well. -are adjustments repeatable. -how much zoom range. -is the galss good? A crystal clear 1-6 is going to beat a mediocre 1-8 for being able to see things far away. And frankly a lot of that stuff is hugely variable even at a premium price point. My purchase of an LPV was less buy once cry once, and more buy a couple times, finally just suck it up and save the cash for a good one. For me it was a toss up between the razor HD II 1-6 and the accupower 1-8x. I went with the accupower because I found a good deal on one first and because I'm hitting that point where all the good technique in the world isn't going to make up for my eyesight. The trijicon was damn near as forgiving at 1x as the vortex, but was a bit more constrained on the eyebox and thus head position at 4x and greater. It bought a 34mm tube to the party and thus more light gathering and a slightly brighter view to the table as well as a FFP reticle meaning holdovers are right from 1x-8x unlike the razor. It's daylight visible with fresh batteries, but it's also quite usable with no illumination. The 34mm tube means reduced mounting options, but it requires somewhat shorter eye relief than the razor meaning more mounts work well for it. Oddly enough despite the bulk, it is like 0.1 oz lighter than the razor. IMO there's no reason to pay more than about $1100 for a good LPV. Both the razor and trijicon 1-8 hit that price very regularly. The trijicon occasionally hits $1000 on sale. The bushnell elite tactical 1-8 hits that range too, and is good glass, but IMO not quite as nice as those other two options. You can also shop used. Good optics tend to have good warranties and healthy secondary markets. Then there's tier 2 where $700 is the hard limit. You aren't likely to find a deal this good. on the above, so the vortex viper pst 1-6x is nice here, burris RT6 is nice enough. There might be others, Under $400? Either of the vortex strike eagle offerings. Maybe the non platinum primary arms. Everything else is either just a clone of the vortex or the PA scope with less quality warranty and usualy worse reticles. You may also be able to find the grandady of 1x LVD's with a dot used. That would be the meopta k-dot. Not a great reticle, but good glass and solid build. As for price vs durability, my first true 1x was the millet 1-4x dmr. An early version where the adjustment nub was opposite where they placed it later. Optics weren't great, but reticle was usable and to get a cat tail to fit, I took a grinder to the adjustment nubbin. Got nice and hot but still worked just fine and still does to this day. Just with the crappy eye relief and eye box, I can shoot a dot better than that thing. It's also now super ugly.

My $0.02. Feel free to not take my advice. If your front BUIS is attached to the rail, you are probably wasting your time unless it is VERY, VERY rigid. Anything offset is going to kind of suck for longer ranges, and if it is not longer ranges, just canting the gun and sighting down the forearm will take you pretty far. My guns using them are flip ups integral to the gas block. They are the least wrong of the solutions accessible for a DIY build. My rear of choice is the arms 40 LP. Magpul pro is the same logic, and I'd buy one of them if I didn't already own all that I need in arms 40lp flavor.

What the fuck does appreciation in value matter? Shit has a replacement cost. IF they aren't covering replacement cost for firearms, you are going to be FUBAR anyway as they claim depreciation. Which is the primary problem with homeowners' riders. Most won't write over $10k, most don't cover optics in it, and most are current market value, not replacement cost. The ones I have seen talked about most are armscare, collectibles insurance service, and Eastern. If you compete, and your primary concern is theft while on the road, CIS seems to be the least fucked, but it seems nothing fully covers you under all the circumstances you might face when traveling with your gear. armscare is not priced well. So it's worth giving the other two a call. If you collect knives, CIS does that too.

What QPQ/melonite? Msot things on guns are not hardened too much, you want the ductility/elasticity/springiness. Whatever you want to call it. The temp on the molten salt bath process is about right for the hardness you want in a firearm. Knife? Total shit. What you don't want are parts that are too thin. I believe the shock of the quench after the bath can get them. some form of nitrocarburizing has been used by H&K, IMI, S&W, Glock, etc. It's not scary. Jsut don't do the small parts. As a note, as much as I'm not a fan of DLC or Ionbond for the whole gun, that stuff is THE SHIT for screws and sights. The screws are just pretty. The sights though stay like new black FOREVER it seems. At least on my gun, the finish is finally starting to wear at the muzzle end of the slide form draws, but the rear sight blade is like new after years of use, the same number of draws and someting in the neighborhood of 50k rounds. Which beats the snot out of the factory finish which usually starts getting shiny in spots in under a year.

Like I said it is decent. You CAN use an adjustable 2 point sling as a hasty sling (as is commonly understood) provided your sling mount is out front.

Probably because S&B went form being reliably brass cased with a copper jacketed bullet to having that, plus gilding metal jackets, plus steel jacketed bullets that were plated to look like gilding metal. Trying to determine which was which was a huge PITA. I stopped bothering shopping for S&B because of it myself.