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Short answer: Yes Long answer: Depends. There are some hand guard systems that require removal of the front sight base (FSB); to include if you want to add a low profile gas block for a longer rail. If your muzzle device is pinned, it makes it near impossible. Some other systems require removal of the Delta ring (many actually). Again if the muzzle device is welded on, it makes it impossible (because of the above reason, whether we're talking about a default FSB or low profile gas block). So, if you are looking to add something like the Daniel Defense rails that have a proprietary delta ring, then get the work done PRIOR to permanently attaching anything on the end. With that said though, there are many good options that don't require dis-assembly-- and there are many that do require dis-assembly. Uppers these days though come in a myriad of different styles-- whether its barrel length or type of hand guards (including long ones, competition, tactical, etc). Just do your homework as you are, and it should be apparent what you'll need to get done. ETA: There are free float options that use the default delta ring assembly, and do not require removal of the FSB/gas block. On that short list (and off the top of my head), the Omega X series by Daniel Defense does just that.

Its not a matter of taking the bullet square, its a matter of that stance being the most efficient in getting what you need to get done (which is to shoot and move). That strong stance has to do with having a strong core (which any athlete can understand why its so important), and not necessarily taking a shot. Ever try running a race with weight shifted dramatically to one side or crab-running/walking? Truth is that unless you're made out of something harder then the bullets, they aren't going to deflect off (bone doesn't count, as it has already penetrated). Of course squaring up against a punch isn't recommended, as physics dictate that the body is capable of deflecting the transferred energy (like most martial arts); however, as noted, bullets won't deflect. Just think about it. Stand up and turn side ways. Then try to run in a straight line (that zig-zag/serpentine stuff is a joke), and tell me how stable of a position that is-- a lot of people would probably be tripping over them self.

Yea, that argument is more of the one about primal instincts in relations to how emotion(s) is tracked through our more "animalistic" tendencies. Trying to "bristle our hairs" to appear bigger can cause a type of intimidation. I'm skeptical though as I'm not a huge believer in certain biosocial conceptions of contemporary humans (like that one). Might work against bears, but humans who have a bit more processing power [in the brain] and knowledge about society and its tendencies? Cue the Indiana Jones scene... ETA: Because I wanted to watch it again

The whole "blading" thing is an interesting discussion. A lot of that argument comes from the perspective of those wearing body armor... and so it makes sense. To be in a bladed position with body armor would neglect the fact that the person would have their two strongest plates facing away from the possible danger (and with the sides where there are normally smaller plates and far less denser mass vulnerable). Still, being squared up to the target, even without armor, would seem to make more sense as being hit on the sides, seems to me, could be more catastrophic. Also, being squared up towards the threats (purposely plural in this context) would allow for a person to better drive their system towards engaging and stopping the threats. Of course this boils down to a person's shooting technique; but its a given that shooting from a bladed stance makes it more difficult to consistently and effectively/efficiently engage multiple threats... so, yea.

The KNS anti-rotation pins are kind of pointless too IMO. But if you want the cool factor, I can't tell you how to spend your money. I personally think the standard mil-spec trigger is fine. If your purpose was [semi] precision, then I'd agree that a dressed up trig job is required. But for BG-sized targets it does the job just fine. I also agree that the BCE is well worth the money. Had the chance to shoot a 7.62 along with my bud's 5.56, both with the BCE, and it made a world of difference (in both cases). Regarding stocks and barrel lengths... that's all your preference, and no matter what anybody tells you is "good" and/or "bad," you have to make that conclusion for yourself. I too find the full-sized A2-type stocks very unwieldy, especially from a standing position. But I also think pinning a collapsible stock is illogical, and a waste of money. I got a Sully stock, and its been better then great for me (and its rock solid-- and it looks pretty good too). As for barrel length... well, we can argue ballistics all day, but for most of our purposes the difference between 14.5 and 16 is negligible. You can easily shoot at distances of 200-300 yards just fine (with the longest range I go only being 200 in NJ anyway). If you had to consistently engage 300yd+, then yea, I'd say a 16'' (or 18'' for that matter) would be better suited. Good luck with the purchase. I do praise you for doing your homework and putting yourself out there, even if you do get flamed on here and there . In the end, you will definitely get far more for your money as opposed to buying something overpriced.

Maks: I run a Troy Medieval brake. It gets the job done, though the side concussion is expected. It was on that same rifle of mine you put some rounds down range with a few Sundays ago.

I read this earlier, and I too was a bit disturbed (though relieved that authorities are refusing... currently). I wonder though, would this list include all of the politicians and law enforcement authorities who also keep a firearm on their persons and/or household?

For those not paying attention, "The Walking Dead" season 1 will be coming out on DVD/Blu Ray next Tues, 8 March. I for one will be making it a priority to pick it up sometime that day. From what I saw, it will include a good amount of extra materials. Which, taking in account that it was only six episodes so far, there better be a fair deal of extra content to make the purchase worthwhile. So, yea, go get it, and then we can go crazy with these discussions again

What Robert posted is correct. A direct link, as I know you can be lazy, Ray : http://www.archives.gov/st-louis/military-personnel/

Yea, I assumed it was one of those configurations. Personally, I don't see the big deal about the MK12 config package from BCM (though its a nice touch that it comes with a BCG/bolt, as most uppers do not, and most be bought separately). I really want to do an SPR-type rifle, and instead was looking at one of the 18'' uppers from BCM, such as: http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-SS410-18-Rifle-Length-Upper-Receiver-Group-p/bcm-urg-18%20ss410%20vtrx13.htm Essentially the same thing as the MK12 variants, as its SS410 & 1x8 barrel, rifle length gas system. I would even consider just pinning a thread protector on to the end instead of a muzzle device.

Looks really good, Dan. Even with it being your first, looks like you did your homework on what to get and avoid-- good stuff. All these ARs lately... makes me really want to consider working on an old project again. Now, only if BCM would get some more stock in

An MK12 upper is going to cost you a premium regardless of where you look. I have to ask though, which Noveske upper are you talking about? Because in stock configurations, Noveske doesn't sell an MK12-style upper. They do have some pretty nice 18'' SPR uppers, but I wasn't aware they had an MK12 configuration readily available.

I echo the same sentiment as Shane and Recessed. Figure out what you want to do with it, and then practice the basics of said concept. Once you got that figured out, it'll become glaringly obvious if you need anything more (or if you don't).

Its a good idea, but clear polymer is known to be significantly weaker then other polymers. This is why Magpul never made a clear magazine for wide release, and why certain shades of polymer (regarding their magazines) are avoided by people who use their magazines every day (I believe the FDE polymer is the weakest). ETA: Wait, you're talking about those small windows. My bad. Even then, something like that seems capable of breaking eventually. Why not just get rid of a piece that can break and still fulfill the original intent? I personally like the idea of the small "vents" on the tubes. I can't put my finger on why, but it just seems like a good idea that, as long as structural integrity isn't compromised, is a good idea.

Works for me. And yea, my huge concern, along with Shane, was the trigger issue. But from a holistic perspective, the fact that Kel Tec went ahead and really listened to the feedback shows that Kel Tec, moving forward, might continue this trend in listening and utilizing feedback (something that a lot of the industry seems to be remiss of). Looks like I might not hold out for v.2 (as they have done a v.2!), and put in a preorder...

Many congrats!

How can it be based on anything, Ray, if the whole argument is subjective?

Ken, for some people, it might be about them being paranoid. But for others, myself included, its about the fact that our vehicles [in the case of a decal] could be at higher risk for break-ins. And it is definitely an issue, not just an assumption; for example the unit I was with, after a rash of incidents, requested that all indicators of our military and firearms affiliation be removed from our vehicles for our own benefit. This was compiled from information that Army CID and local authorities had concluded from their investigations after my unit and other units in Colorado reported something like 60 break-ins in a month alone. So, ultimately, why paint a bulls-eye on my back for the BGs? Especially in a state with as many people who are willing to take that extra mile to see if there is something in your vehicle. I don't see it as "hiding," but instead as a deterrence from being a victim.

The veil of consumerism. Give people enough BS, and they will drown themselves in picayunishness-- oft being ignorant of the coming issues. Or maybe its just easier to get through life being a sheep; I wouldn't know.

There are also drop-in railed handguards that aren't free-float, and, because of this, are relatively cheaper. A good example could be the Daniel Defense EZ CAR: https://danieldefense.com/rail-systems/ez-car.html (not "cheap" per se, but cheaper than the Omega series). Troy also makes a similar product I believe, as does Midwest Industries (For reference: Catalog of non-FF handguards, as sold by Bravo Company USA) You could also consider the Magpul MOE handguards. This line of products also has a specific mounting system (and even a light-mounting package). Pretty solid stuff, plus pretty cost efficient.

Stickle is pointing you in the best direction I believe. There are picatinny rail adapters that attach to the front sight base that are pretty solid (like the ones linked from ds arms). My only issue with that though is how do you activate the light? Last we met in person, you didn't have massively long arms! A tape switch could be considered, sure, but I, and others, don't have much faith in tape switches.

I'm another person who believes that less people who know is better. Not that I'm not proud-- but I just don't trust that there aren't those who would use that sort of information to their advantage.

If anything, just paint it! But yea, I love my Sully as well. Worth every penny.

Happy Birthday!

Very nice-- and welcome, I'll be looking forward to those upcoming classes