DirtyDigz

Matt, try shotgunworld: http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/index.php? I bought a hundred Sellior & Bellot slugs last year, I think they were a buck a piece or under. I can't really recommend their 00 buckshot as it smokes like crazy, but the slugs have worked well for me so far (the only slugs I've shot so far).

BTW, a shotgun slug was the only projectile, other than a monster .45-70 510 grain rifle round, that they tested at the "box of truth" that was able to completely penetrate a slab of bullet proof glass: http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot6.htm And the only projectile that completely blew apart a padlock in one shot: http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot5.htm They're powerful at short ranges!

Matt, I am by no means an expert, but here's what I think I "know" on shotgun slugs: If your shotgun is a smooth barrel, then you want a "rifled", aka brenneke or foster slug: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shotgun_slug#Brenneke_Slugs If your shotgun has a rifled barrel, then you want a sabot slug. The "rifling" on brenneke/foster slugs is not to make them spin. Instead, the "rifling" is actually fins on the outside circumference of the slug designed to deform and allow the slug to pass through a choke. My understanding is that you shouldn't run brenneke/foster slugs through anything more restrictive than an "improved cylinder" choke. You might want to ask on a shotgun specific forum to get other opinions/experiences on what chokes people are regularly shooting slugs with. Before I ever shot my first slug with my shotgun, I cut open a slug to see how it would pass the improved cylinder choke. It was more than scary to see that the slug wouldn't go through the choke by hand; in fact it would have taken a hammer to get it to pass: However I was assured by multiple people this is "normal", and that the slug would deform when shot through a choke at full force. I sure was tense the first time I pulled a trigger on a slug through my shotty, but it passed right through no problem and I've been surprised at how accurate they are. Probably shot about 50 slugs since. The only thing I've noticed is that they tend to loosen the choke up in the gun unless I really screw it in tightly beforehand.

Welcome Jake!

Welcome uh....Tosser. You're not British by any chance, are you?

Welcome Keith!

Sent a PM, haven't heard back yet (I'm an impatient f#ck...). What's up?

Started a thread with links/tutorials/resources on building an AR here: http://www.njgunforums.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1237 I'm going to be waiting a while to start mine as I think we're now on the downside of the "Obamamania" price curve.

It passed and it is available (c'mon guys, you've got the internet, you can look shit up now! ) http://www.cars.gov/

#3 - "Pizza Restaurant" - start is by facing up range, holding a pizza box in an "oven" (rectangular cutout in plywood sheet). On start signal, turn to face down range, put pizza box down on table, stay within two taped lines on table, draw with close retention (basically "hip firing", keep elbow close to body and hold gun one-handed in strong hand only) and fire on close target. Switch to preferred gun hold/stance and engage 7 more targets at varying ranges in tactical order from near to far, all while staying between black lines on table #4 - "Gas Station w/baby" - start is holding "baby" (foam doll) in left arm, "gas hose" (vacuum cleaner hose with handle/nozzle) in right hand fueling "car" (large plywood silhouette of car with large cutout for passenger window and small hole for gas tank). On start signal, place baby in "car seat" (cardboard box inside "car), hang "gas hose" back on "pump" (another plywood prop), then crouch at rear of car and fire over "trunk" at two targets. Move left to fire on two more targets through "passenger window", then move left again to fire on last two targets over "hood". Got the scores from the match today and I'm happy to say I wasn't dead last, only eighth out of 9 in class. My worst stage was air marshal, where I missed every target except one and got the worst score in class. My best stage was the pizza restaurant where I scored best in class, after deliberately deciding to slow down and aim better after the previous stage. I was actually surprised I did as well as I did, as this was the first time I had shot my glock after installing XS big dot sights on it.

That link goes to a FN FS2000. Might want to check it.

I generally like the range and their rentals are a good way to get some actual trigger time with guns you're thinking about buying. However, they do have a policy that irks me - they will not sell ammunition to you if you do not have a PA driver's license, or at least they wouldn't last time I went. I wanted to break in my new shotgun, but had only brought 00 buck with me. Turns out 00 buck is too "heavy" for the skeet range (I can understand that, they don't want pellets raining down on neighbors a mile away), and you can only shoot slugs on the "ported" ranges. They wouldn't sell me either slugs or target loads for the skeet range. Luckily my GF's dad who lives in PA was with us, so he bought the ammo and handed it to me. :roll:

No argument there, but I'd counter that it's considerably better protection than the 00 gauge air that's currently surrounding my firearms, and that safe is light enough that I can actually move it without hiring movers when the time comes in the near future to leave NJ.

So here's a bit more: IDPA website:http://www.idpa.com/ Somerset IDPA web site: http://www.somersetidpa.com/Home_Page.html Somerset IPDA rule book: http://www.somersetidpa.com/uploads/IDPARuleBook2005.pdf What you'll need to compete for your first time at Somerset: - A handgun that is legal in one of the IDPA classes (see rulebook) - Sufficient ammunition for the event (to my knowledge ammunition is not sold on site) - A holster that sits mid-line on the strong hand side of your body and meets the IDPA rules (see rulebook). I have a minotaur IWB holster that I had set up for small of back carry. I was able to use it for the match, but had to reposition it to be at my hip. - A magazine carrier that sits on opposite side of your holster. You can have more than one magazine carrier. - $10 entry fee. This included pizza lunch/snacks when I went. - A safety briefing and orientation(arrive early, at least by 11:00 to get the safety briefing). You do *not* have to be a member of the range to compete in IDPA. Description of the facility: The Somerset County Fish and Game Protective Association is a fancy name for an indoor shooting club/range in Bridgewater. You'll need to look for a sign with the street # for the entrance to the club as there is nothing advertising the entrance to the club from the street aside from the street # (and that's the way they want it, one of the R.O.'s told me). There is a kitchen and male and female restrooms and a large lobby with a window view into the range. The range itself is an open, concrete floor indoor space with a steel trap at one end. It is not ported/divided, and there are no target hangers on overhead cables like at a typical target range. Range appeared to be ventilated, air conditioned and heated. Unlike IDPA events at other locations, at Somerset the stages are all indoors, which limits the arc of fire that the stages can be set up for. Description of the competition stages on 6/21: #1 - "Golf Course" - start is by holding a putter, preparing to make a putt on a strip of astroturf down range into a mechanical golf cup. On the start signal, make putt, turn to face down range, draw from holster and engage three targets while walking laterally to right to first cover position in a "bush" (a piece of plywood with leafy twigs stapled to the sides). Shoot from "bush" cover (feet, legs and 50% of torso behind cover) through leaves at two more targets (your choice of shooting out of left side or right side of cover). Move laterally from "bush" cover to "tree trunk" cover (2 plastic barrels stacked on top of each other). Shoot from cover at 2 more targets, again choosing which side of the cover to shoot from. End of stage. If you made the initial putt, 3 seconds deducted from your time. #2 - "Air Marshall" - start is your choice of 4 chairs arranged in a square, facing up range and holding a newspaper. On start signal, drop newspaper, turn to face down range, walk to "bulkhead cover" (plywood doorway with a "curtain" (a towel), representing partition between first class and coach), open curtain, draw and fire from "bulkhead" cover at first target, a terrorist with a "bomb" (red balloon) on his chest. Required 2 headshots on terrorist without popping balloon. Fire at two more "terrorist" targets without hitting their "hostages" (additional targets stapled at 45 degree angle in front of "terrorist" targets). Continue firing at additional "terrorist" targets further and further down range, representing farther and farther away seats. (will edit with more later, gotta run again)

Anyone seen a Lowe's in NJ with this safe *in stock*? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292952-10283-CE12-BK&lpage=none Been looking at all the stores near me and they all show "limited availability" which I'm sure is lowe-esque for "not in stock". $397 is a screaming deal for a 14 gun with a fire rating.

I went and competed. Real short review as I'm running out the door again, I'll embellish with more details later: I had a great time, very friendly people and one of the R.O's (Skip) did a great job of giving me a newbie's orientation. Glad to say I did not commit any gross violations/errors although on the 2nd stage (the "air marshall on an airplane") I missed all but one of about 8 targets. :oops: Slowed down for the last two stages and did much better. I much, much preferred this over a range visit. You can quick draw from holster, rapid fire, mag drops/fast reloads, moving, crouching, shooting from behind cover/slicing the pie, you get to do it all here. This is the kind of "real-world" shooting skills that matter, IMO.

445 Milltown road is where I'm headed also, so if it's the wrong place you'll see at least one other guy in an empty parking lot looking confused. My first time ever at this location or an IDPA match, so can't answer that definitively. I'm participating in the match and my GF may be hanging around to watch.

At least one Glock.

Oh shit...I'm reading the IDPA rulebook tonight and it says: "Only conventional notch and post type sights are permitted for IDPA competition. Sights may include tritium inserts, fiber optic inserts, white dots, etc". I have XS Big dot sights on my glock: Are those illegal for IDPA? Because they sure aren't coming off easily...

Welcome! Another Morris County-er here.

I am.

So after seeing KCI glock magazines for sale almost everywhere: http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/7533_KCI+Magazines+for+Glock/?return=%3ftpl%3Dsearch%26search_val%3Dkci http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/glock-19-15-rd-mags.aspx?a=506891 http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/catalog1/product_info.php/pName/1-kci-glock-19-9mm-15rd-magazine and reading the thread about them on ar15.com: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=13&t=63199&page=1 I figured I'd give them a try. I ordered the 2 mag + carrier set for $25 from Cheaper Than Dirt: http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/MAG252-36.html They arrived tonight and I spent some time loading/unloading the magazines and manually cycling them through my glock. Executive summary: Would not use these for anything except as "toys" for range time; would absolutely not rely on these for HD, nor let novice shooters use them. Detail: Pros - - They do look near identical to glock factory mags, they insert easily into the mag well, positively engage the magazine release and drop free when released. Cons - - The edges on the top "lips" of the metal insert in the magazine are not smoothed like the factory mags. They're almost sharp and leave grooves in the brass of each round - There is extra plastic flashing floating around many edges which needs to be trimmed/sanded off. - Loading them gives me the creeps. Once I loaded the first two rounds, about every other round after that would have a crazy cant/angle to it as I pushed it down to load the next one. A couple of times I had to release the pressure and let the round come back up to the top of the magazine to adjust how it was sitting before I could get the next round in. - Effort to the compress the spring varied wildly from one round to the next. First round goes in easy, next one a little harder, 3rd one a little harder, 4th one suddenly easy, 5th hard, 6th easy, 7 & 8 hard, 9 & 10 easy, etc. Seems to indicate that the follower/round stack is binding up at points. - Load 6 rounds, then shake the magazine. Hear a rattle, Load a 7th round, no rattle. 8th round, rattle. 9th, no rattle. etc. - Manually stripping the rounds out of the magazine using my finger, each round comes up to the top at a slightly different vertical angle. Some come up and sit properly flush against the top of the metal lips (which angles the bullet up in relation to the mag floor plate for correct feeding onto the barrel ramp), others vary from slightly down to parallel with the mag floor plate. This translates into very uneven feeding when manually cycling the rounds through the gun - some feed smoothly, others have a little "click" as the round gets moved into the right angle before heading up the feed ramp, others require a hard shove on the slide to get them to feed. - And finally...the follower does not always engage the slide lock when the last round is cycled out. For some reason, the follower gets hung up below the level necessary to engage the slide lock when it is loaded with rounds and then they're manually cycled out via the slide. However if the magazine is empty and you simply depress the follower with your finger and let it go, it comes back up all the way to the top. Some people are reporting having better reliability with these by replacing the KCI spring with a factory glock spring. I'm not going to bother...back to OEM glock magazines for me. For another $10 or so per mag I won't have to worry about their function.

bulletproofme.com asks for several measurements on shoulders, chest, gut, sitting and standing, etc. and recommends a model/size based on that. Not the same as in in person fitting, but better than guessing at S/M/L.

Unless you're wearing ceramic plate armor, yes, you will be perforated.

http://bulletproofme.com/ If I remember correctly the armor is made by Pro-Max. I paid $675 delivered for Level IIIA "concealable" with trauma plate and 2 carriers (fabric that surrounds the kevlar sheets), one white, one black. Level IIIA will stop most handgun caliber bullets. Rifle bullets, however, will zip right through it. IIIA is about as much protection as you can get and still wear "normal" clothes. Box of Truth did some "non-standard" penetration testing on IIIA armor: http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot16.htm