JonF

Thanks again!

Nope, cuz i'm not the one trying to sell him a nikon. I'm merely stating there is a *lot* more to a scope to consider than just glass of which none of your original reply seemed to touch on. so now you *have* to use software just to use your reticle? hmm... still nothing a well subtended MOA or MRAD reticle can't handle anyways. Plus it looks quite coarse... how does it handle when you push it out to 1000+ yards? Have you had any issues with obscuring the target? It certainly has the magnification to handle that yardage it would seem.

Scrap, i think you have me confused with someone else as i dont recall ever harping on your scope selection. However, you certainly seem bent on espousing the wonders of that Nikon everywhere you go regardless of anyone's actual needs. Without ever having looked through one myself, i can speak for the eyebox flexibility or optical qualities, but that BDC reticle is a serious detractor. Presuming it will be the same for any caliber or even any .308 load is a tall order and certianly not as flexible as a well subtended MIL or MOA reticle, don't you agree? Does it line up for all your loads perfectly? And your reply (if you reply), i beg of you, PLEASE make it brief! lol

With all due respect to scrap and his fortress of text, glass quality alone is hardly the only factor one should consider for optics. On the contrary, the scope as an entire package is the only way to make a complete and thorough decision. I mean, at a certain point, you almost expect glass quality to be both good enough and comparable that you need to focus (haha, get it) on the other things that set them apart. Reticle design (is it useful enough or is it just another fudd-plex), eye relief (is it critical or variable depending on zoom), clarity throughout the zoom range (upper and lower boundaries can present a problem), turret adaptability and repeatability (see "box text"), turret tactile feel, turret zero and stop, etc...

Second FP is the traditional kind that you find in most lower cost scopes where the reticle stays a constant size in the view port even when you change magnification. or, to put it another way, as you change magnification and the image changes, the size of the reticle also changes in relation to the image so the subtentions don't stay the same and require constant re-calculation in your head for range finding and holdovers. First focal plane is what you find on higher end scopes where the reticle shrinks and grows with the magnification of the scope power. The advantage here is that the reticle is always in the same relationship with the image and so the measurements never change. It does incur a cost but its a great feature if you plan on shooting various distnaces ast varying size targets and change your scope power freqeuenly. You can get away with SFP if you just park your scope at a certain power and memorize all the values or have plenty of time to recalculate on the fly when you change it. Otherwise, FFP is a way more useful implementation.

My vote would go for the Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP Riflescope with EBR-1 Reticle. Its an excellent scope in at that price point with features you want for true long range varminting like the FFP reticle for accurate ranging and a reticle with generous subtentions for max range flexibility out to 1000. But this all depends on the ranges you plan to shoot at. If you are only doing a medium range (couple hundred yards, up to 600), get the 4-16 or for 1-300, get the 2.5-10. I haven't found much below this price point with a decent reticle that i would pay a single penny for.

Any thoughts on releasing them in batches in order to allow folks who may not have internet access at that time of day or that particular day to order? I only say that because you've been way more than fair with your pricing and availability even though demand is through the roof and its very common to read peoples' comments that they missed out on some parts or ammo deal because they "stepped out", "work blocks guns sites", or "blinked".

To clarify, i have a mount, i simply need a light to drop in it. I think i found a couple solutions. The Surefire 6PX Defender in the $85 range and the PA CWL at about $65. On one hand, i'll gladly spend an extra 20 for the extra piece of mind for a well known reliable light when it counts, but he PA is a little brighter (420 for the PA vs 320 for the SF). Perhaps the extra lumens not needed though for merely lighting up your hallway. http://www.surefire.com/illumination/flashlights/6px-defender.html https://www.primaryarms.com/Primary_Arms_Compact_Weapon_Light_p/pawl-3bk.htm

Steve, i can't mount a rail mounted weaponlight like a TLR on this particular gun (Benelli Supernova Tactical) so i need to get a tube body flashlight for my mag tube clamp mount. The upside is that this style gets the light much closer to your support hand so its within easy reach for quick activation without breaking grip.

I think the optimal setup for me is the Elzetta ZFL-M60-LF2C but its $175 and a little over budget. Bummer. http://www.elzetta.com/Webpages/Build%20Your%20Light/LF2C.htm

I want to put a flashlight on my shotgun and am looking at a mag tube mount that will accept a flashlight with a 1" body. The mount i have positions the flashlight at the 9:00 position such that the tailcap will be in proximity (or just forward depending on mounting position) of your thumb so you can easily thumb the switch on without breaking too far away from your grip when the foreend is in the fwd position. I really know nothing about the quality of the myriad of lights out there and the further i read, the more one dives deeper into brand and feature confusion. I do know what my concrete needs are so with that, perhaps someone can make a suggestion? - 200+ lumen quality led serviceable lamp - 1" body - uses CR123 batteries - Simple tail cap switchgear. I want momentary on, click for constant on. No multifunction/strobe/low where you have to cycle through a lot of settings through the tail cap to get the damn thing on while under stress unless it goes on HIGH for the first click. I don't mind multiple levels of brightness, i just want it to straight to high on the first click. - $100 cap (it seems this is certainly do-able but htere are some that cost upwards for $200 for some unfathomable reason) I found some of the commonly recommended ones that i have to rule out but they fail for one reason or another. 4Sevens - bodies too small. Surefire G2X Pro - you have to twist the tail cap instead of clicking for constant on. Streamlight Scorpion X - have to keep clicking to cycle to constant on. Fenix TK15 - no constant on from tailcap.

Making a lo-pro gas block that reuses the same taper pin spacing as a a-frame sight would also make it needlessly long. I suppose it could just use the rear pin, but it seems that most, if not all blocks always use at least 2 fasteners with whatever system they use. Plus a clamp on block uses simple tools to service/replace which is a big plus over having to drill/ream for pins. Combined with what others said, its probably not the best route.

Ohh, nows y'alls are gangin up on me. Just remember, i was tapin targets before y'alls was itchin in yo daddy's britches!

So what you're saying is you want to share my underwear? I'll think about it but whats in it for me?

I just wove a set of longjohns entirely out of handwarmer patches so i'm ready to BBQ myself alive if need be tomorrow.

Ever wonder how all that bulk 22 long rifle rimfire ammo that you hose box after box out of your 10/22 is made? From raw material to finished product, this video shows how CCI does it. Even as a reloader this is quite interesting as the process for loading rimfire is very different and the industrial methods for processing the various steps that they use are not that analogous to our typical home presses. http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=pvK9QlQtrKI This second video deals with quality control and some of the differences in thier lineup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdNkfTS0lOQ

The one with the owl head on it is a telltale sign that its an Iver Johnson. They were cheap revolvers back in the day chambered in the smaller calibers.

Very nice! Is that polished stainless or the nickel coating?

LOL!

Great guy to deal with, very prompt and easy transaction. A+

On my hornady plates, a 9mm case will NOT fit a 223 plate as the groove in the 9mm is too small. OTOH, a 223 shell WILL fit a 9mm shell plate, however, its a VERY SLOPPY fit and therein lies a potential danger: if you have a shell with abnormal resistance extracting from the resizing die, you run the risk of the plate slipping off the rim and leaving a stuck case which is a real shitty situation. Get the proper plates if at all possible.

If the shooting was not at the private club, Please edit the title. MCRPC isn't even on rt 33 so if the map is accurate, it was at the county municipal range for police/fire, etc for official use only.

+1. I can't say for sure what it is, but if you look on the stock right under where the bolt handle sits in the down position, there is some sort of "plate" fastened there with a pair of screws. Perhaps that can be easily detached to reveal a clearance notch for a bent bolt.

Add Ruger to the list of companies to tell them to go pound sand. Ruger, S&W and Cabelas are 3 heavy hitters, financially speaking, in the firearms world and so perhaps that may have some sway.

Nick, i just checked PV and there is only 2 primers in stock: muzzleloader percussoin caps and shotshell primers. Zero centerfire pistol or rifle primers! The panic has officially demolished the reloading community!