JonF

Whenever i see these dueling trees advertized, they split em up categorically into 22 only, centerfire pistol, then ceterfire rifle all according to the abuse they can withstand. I'm primarily interested in one that can be used with pistols in either typical non-magnum centerfire calibers *and* rimfire. The problem is whether a 22 will turn the heavy plates of a the centerfire model? Anyone have one and have tried it out in various calibers?

Bummer. Although, even if i could have this, it would just end up increase my jam rate from 1 rd per mag to 2.5 rds per mag. http://www.cmcgov.com/store/pc/Advantage-Arms-Factory-25-ROUND-22LR-Magazine-for-Glock-LE-17-22-and-LE-19-23-IN-STOCK-228p1204.htm

Hey Raz, whats the deal with the Hornady blems? is it just cosmetic or will you get an unusable one from time to time?

Ahh, the classic "hook up some chains, lay back and get a run on it!" method of shrub removal. I remember my grampa doing that with some small bushes on his farm with an old ford truck. lol

Here's another data point and although its a touch more money for the "case", the cost per bullet is less. HORNADY BP 22 CAL 55GR FMJBT W/C BULLETS $429.97/6000 FREE S/H USPS http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=8444&dir=278|281|1081|1141

Thats classic! Total presumptuous pompous a** with an overinflated sense of entitlement. "Please activate my account 'Radek' when you get a chance." States like there's no question that he would be reinstated. I love it! Reminds me of one msg he sent me with "questions" about something i had posted about. He actually asked me to prepare a report based on a list of 5 bulleted items for his consideration. WTF, i'm not your **** and i sure as hell ain't doing your damn homework.

Free pee-pee touch? ****, why didn't you say so in the first place!

Ok, i'll bite.. which shop?

I recently used this handy guide developed by Jack Weigand and hosted by Brownells to tune my new STI Spartan from a stock 5-ish lbs to a crisp 2lb, 12 oz with only tuning the tension of the sear spring. This guide goes into other detail of how to tune various aspects of the gun, but in the section titled "Sear Spring Prep", he details the steps anyone can perform to fine tune the pull weight of your trigger to you liking. If your trigger break is already fairly crisp and clean, this modification will help pull the weight down to any particular weight you dictate with the amount of tweaking you can do. You will need 1 particular tool that isn't common and that's a trigger pull weight scale so you can measure the tension of the various legs of the sear spring. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull?source=CJ

Getting someone else to do my homework: Priceless!

Do they sell just uppers?

Welcome, neighbor!

Meh, i think you give him too much credit. He was merely an ignorant prick who was rude and callous to all alike. He might have gotten lucky a few times when blindly lobbing his insults, but generally his indifference didn't seem to be really strategically directed. I just don't understand why Ray has such a hard-on for bringing this douche back. There's something else at work here... On a positive note, the guy would buy damn near anything! He was where old guns went to die.

I've had a few of these and they've always been a bit more difficult to load the OEM mags with it than thier own mags. Because of that, and even though they claim to work with the OEM mags, I think they're more geared to loading thier own mags which i exclusively use since they load easy as pie.

This list actually illustrates an excellent point: while we gun owners perpetually argue over which platform is best for whatever arbitrary reasons, top quality talent can use, adapt and win with damn near <b>anything</b>. Nitpicking things like bore axis, grip angle, muzzle balance, etc is nothing more than just a scapegoat for poor training and bad shooting. The Beretta in #1 position is a surprising, yet refreshing reminder of this.

Did it feel like a weaker charge? i've had that happen with a few guns when my reloads are scraping the bottom of the power factor envelope.

Welcome Lawrence, good to see you around here. Hope to see you at some fun shoots again.

There are some rules of thumb to guide you, but sometimes its a trial and error thing to see what your gun likes and where. Dry films are good in places where you want some minor lubrication, but don't want any liquid present to collect dirt/debris. Wet lubes are good for several varied purposes: 1. areas where you need penetrating properties where you can't lube directly (ie. sealed, rotating, and hard to reach assemblies). 2. areas where a thick grease would bind up the mechanics due to viscosity or temperature sensitivities. 3. you need some lubrication, but not a lot. 4. quick lube/large coverage via spray can. 5. convenience of all-in-one cleaner/lube/protectant. 6. its cheap and abundant. Greases are for certain types of mechanical assemblies that experience higher levels of friction and have the ability to take a heavier lube without affecting its operation due to higher viscosity or temperature. Sliding assemblies like slide rails are the most common areas where a grease might be used. Some guns will run with a heavy grease (ie. glocks with loose, minimalistic rail tolereances) and some will need a thinner formula (tight full frame length rail guns like CZ's, 1911's and such).

I had Bill do two AR triggers for me too. Both were the same 4# with speed hammer mods. One was light, crisp 4# break and dropped in perfectly. The other was also light but had a bit of grit to it so not as crisp and required filing a few thousandths off the trigger travel weld before it would even fit into the receiver and clear the safety. Both triggers/parts kits and receivers were the same brands so the consistency could be better even if its not exactly hand fitted to your gun at the time the parts are modified. Still though, its a cheap alternative for a simple single-stage trigger job compared to a typical drop in kit from Giselle or such.

Which Buckmark did you get? In case you haven't seen this, google "Heggis flip" for a free 2lb trigger job.

Slip 2000 EWL is an oil, but its benefit is that its thick and doesn't migrate or evaporate like a lot of other oils do so it behaves more like a grease. I've tried Militec and its slick but evaporates quickly (but that's part of the design i believe). I've tried Eezox and its awesome for preserving older guns or raw steel, but its very light and migrates too easily. Slip seems to be just heavy enough to stick like grease, but still flow like oiland so it won't jam up in tight tolerances or in the cold. This has the benefit of staying put on guns that have various surfaces where the lube isn't fully contained like the bolt carrier rails where a thin lube is easily lost. Then on pistols with full slide to frame rails like a 1911, CZ and Sig's, a grease tends to be too viscous and can dampen the recoil so much that you get jams in the cold weather, an oil like this will stay fluid and keep running. I switched to using this stuff on those types of things while still using grease on other looser fit guns like my M&P9 or anything that wont see cold weather use. Its no wonder-lube, but nothing is and nor is it any substitute for regular maintenance.

I have an 8x8", 1/2" thick AR500 brinell plate from Wideners that has taken thousands upon thousands of shots of everything from 22 to 308 with most being 223 and 308 from 100 to 200 yards (and even a few shots at 50) and it doesn't have so much as a scrape on it. Conversely, i have some 3/8" AR500 also from Wideners that i've hit with M193 .223 at 50 yards which put a very slight, almost imperceptable depression but no enough to warrant replacement. I thing the 1/2" stuff is the way to go for full size rifle calibers or anything with enough velocity.

They're open till 10p, every night except monday and sunday. Tuesday is the forums' "social night" and friday is always interesting with some people bringing dates in the evening.

Thanks mikey, but i need a non ramped 38 super or 9mm gun for the breech and hood to line up.

A 30cal barrel from Numrich that is supposed to be a drop in part (or at least advertised as such). I had the same issue with a 1911 tokarev barrel from JG that i sent back. i had to remove quite a bit of material to get the thing to lock up, and it did eventually do it but the slide was still so far to the rear, you couldn't engage the thumb safety.