JonF

First off, not mine. i found this .45 recently in some range pickups, or more specificially, my resizing die found it and stopped the press dead in its tracks--there was no way it was going to iron out that lump! Thats a pretty damn nice pot belly its got going on, even more impressive that it didn't rupture. This isn't your standard Glocked brass, is it? I'm guessing its gotta be an OOB, no? Whoever touched this one off better count thier lucky stars they still have functional fingers ans/or gun.

The trigger breaks in the stock OEM position, not all the way back against the trigger guard like the Apex.

You're welcome to try mine out; i have the extended reach option and overtravel stop on mine and i can't say enough good about it.

No, he uses all stock parts and one advantage is that using stock springs, no light strikes! Reset is a function of the trigger bar snapping off the sear and so you cna either tweak it yourself or get the RAM to enhance it. Cost breakdown are on his website (burwellguns.com). a proper gunsmith job is totally worth it compared to drop in parts. Frankly, a DIY job is worth what you paid for it, nothing. All you cna do is polish parts and light recontouring if you're bold. Dan totally recuts the sear and striker for better geometry and individually tunes it per gun so you dont end up with that Apex "slop". I've tried both back to back and it truly is night and day like apex is over stock! He just leaves a little more front ramp on the sear so it breaks sooner. The contour will be more stock-like than apex-like which is heavily recontoured to give a light pull but breaks wayyyy back..

I love them! I must have 3 or so around here: one in the range bag, one in the cleaning kit and a specialty kit for something else. Nothing else can touch it for the compactness and utility of it.

I looked into getting one for storing some ammo and other junk. The problem is that all the ones on craigslist are absolutely beat to hell and they STILL want boucoup dollarbucks for the rusty, dented POS's that they are. I don't know about storing guns in them but is probably better than those Stack-On locking cabinets.

It does cost a little more in the end but the difference is night and day. And for those of us with "banana hands" (and that includes you, me and Dan himself, lol), his long reach mod coupled with the overtravel stop is amazing.

Oh, so you did end up sendig it to Burwell? Which services did you get?

N/M, its all sold out anyways. lol

Anyone know what the retail equivalent is (if any)?

I have this one. it uses the top of the door leaving more space on the shelf for other stuff. For me its easier to grab one off this rack since the shelf is so damn miniscule. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/rack-em-the-holster-pistol-rack.aspx?a=506918

I was like until i saw your comment. My 16" barrel with TTO comp bakes my 15" tube, i can only imagine the pain if the tube actually overlapped the ports. You have quite the addition...i mean, collection going.

Totally.

Same here. I've picked up Speer, Blazer and a ton of that "NT" (non-toxic) primed Win and Fed brass.

+1, excellent guidance.

depends... Is the ammo loose bulk or boxed? Is it a steel or plastic can? If plastic, just toss em in. If steel and loose bulk (and you plan on storing long term), you might want to take some sort of precaution to ensure there is no chance of corrosion. Ammo rattling around in the can can wear away teh paint and if that happens, a galvanic reaction can happen between teh steel and brass and lead to corrosion. 2, 1-gallon ziplock freezer bags will hold all the loose ammo you can stuff into it. If its factory boxed, just make sure there is no rust already on the steel and dont store it on a surface where moisture is or can be present (ie, directly basement concrete floor).

I have the same issue and have culled about 500 of these damn things over time. From what i've read around the net, it wont make a difference in the load (it especially wont increase your pressure). Even still, i'll just use mine for practice or a match where velocity/power factor doesn't matter and i can just leave the brass for someone like zoid to gather up.

Understandibly, but thats why you go to ammoengine.com, slickguns.com and gun-deals.com. All those sights scour the online retailers and give tyou the results in one page. You dont even have to wait for sale emails from the retailers using those engines.

They're definitely a little warm! Not +P+ or anything, but probably a touch over most of the warmer factory loads.

fairly great? Is that like those funny oxymorons like somewhat awesome, Military intelligence or pretty ugly? While it could be in part to the OAL, there's no disputing the fact that WSF is at the veritable BOTTOM of the scale of suitable handgun powders. Hodgdon lists it as 36 overall and not only is it way past all the typical fast handgun powders, its sitting next to the slow burning, big gas, comp'd gun powders. It's true that a lot of things will work (and work good enough), but do they work well enough when better alternatives exist? True, recoil of 9mm is not much to begin with, and if one can train to handle the different factors of ergonomics of the gun itself, you can certainly train for its recoil impulse but... its still that slowwwwww impulse. The faster powders are nice in that the impulse is over and done with quickly and you're back on target. Sure you can train all around that kind of thing but when you're talking games (and being competitive as i know you are), isn't optimizing things in the every possible way important? Many powders are versatile, but i think the most important goal regarding the power factor (at least in terms of the topic of 9mm minor) are achieving a good load to meet minor that shoots well out of the gun (in terms of accuracy and function). I can load mouse fart clays and N320 loads too but the brass barely dribbles out of the gun and occasionally stovepipes (and that's not that far below the USPSA minor floor so the range we speak of is pretty narrow). Plus, i find it more effective and efficient to load and train with one load only. And besides, who cares about +p+? Are you still using that 4-hole Lee? I highly advocate the use of some sort of AP press with at least 5 stations (and i don't even care which color). I use the RCBS lockout on my LnL and don;t ever worry about squib/doubles/partials anymore, it handles them all. Voluminous powders are good for the beginner for the very safeguard you mention but at some level, should not really be a deciding factor for powder selection given the mechanical safeguards we have at our disposal these days. Bummer! A chrono is definitely and invaluable, and frankly, essential tool. Especially when we're loading so close to the threshold. I've heard similar stories recently to yours where folks have upped thier charges to gain a sufficient buffer, even in spite of introducing additional recoil. Add in the temp swings, gun differences, chrono differences and all that tolerance stacks up against you sending you min/sub-minor and your scores in the crapper. I try to maintain a 5PF buffer over the designated floors with the few loads i shoot in matches and i hope thats enough!

I dislike that article for the mere fact that the comment quoted was taken totally out of context. I appreciate Hickok45's candor and honesty, but even TTAG is doing the typical media spin. Hickok is in no way going to give up as the article (or at least title) would lead you to believe; just a bunch of sensationalism. :/

Amongst other "deal" sights, i always check www.slickguns.com

1.155 is pretty generous! What will your SIG accept? My CZ (known for short chambers) needs a 1.090 OAL with the MG 124gr JHP's. My M&P, OTOH, will accept them much longer but to cater to them both, thats where i seat them. The up side is that with the short length, i can load them pretty light and still make good minor velocities!

Dan, some powders are temp sensitive in that they change velocity when the ambient temp gets colder or warmer from when you initially chrono'd them. Some powders get faster when the temps heat up and some get faster when the temps get colder. The latter is "inverse sensitive" as the velocity delta is inversely proportional to the temperature delta. Its not good or bad, just something else you need to consider when you're developing a load for your needs in your part of the country.

Nope, not kidding at all. I;ve personally tried and tested N320, clays, WSF and Titegroup in various 9mm minor loads and the recoil is noticeably stronger with WSF (even moreso than titegroup). Its so far down on the burn rate chart below all the other typical faster burning 9mm pistol powders, its just not an optimal powder for that caliber. Its just too slow burning and has that slow powder slow and heavy recoil feel. If you're truly trying to optimize your loads for games, its just not the powder to use for that caliber.