JonF

If you're not happy with the standard connector mods, get one of these and you'll never look back. I tried one last sunday and its as close to a SA style trigger you can get on a Glock. http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156277

Any predictions as to whether this level of attendance is going to be the norm or whether it was an anomaly (extra practice before a big match)? The summer hasn't even gotten going yet and we're already packing 10 lbs of doodoo in a 5 lb bag there! lol Great array of courses today: large, small, speed, memory, and the 3-shot count stage all made you exercise differing skills and strategies. Lots of fun fellas! I'll have to learn the palm in a future match; i wasn't sure if it was a RO type duty to score the stage.

I did order some 15 Rounders from g&r.... 27 a piece is a great deal!

I ended up ordering a plain 9L and will just replace the sights with Warren's and a burwell trigger job. No sense spending so much to get the pro to have to replace the pro specific stuff anyways (and the pro is currently oos at most dealers and distributors).

Damn impressive!

Oh really? I never knew what those were. I thought maybe it was for the gas to finally vent during recoil.

Lube holes?

+3!

I have one with the case feeder and love it. Out of the box, its ready to go, but you may need to tweak some things from time to time, namely lubing the grease zerks and the advance pawls. I greased mine after the first 1000 rounds but havent since and it still feels tight 7K rounds later. After some use with mine over the past 9 months, i've gotten a good handle on its quirks. - have extra springs. Sometimes they just get worn or stretched during handling. - use a new dryer sheet to reduce static on the powder measure. wipe it around on the hopper and anyplace powder travels. - if you feel undue resistance through the handle, dont force it, you can break a pawl (which are also designed to break to spare the press, but it sucks to break sone since it puts you out of commission.) Having an extra just in case you ever need it (like the springs) is a good idea. - lube 9mm brass, without it its harder than some much larger/longer brass. - 9mm cases are small and some times certain brass doesn't eject cleanly via the ejecter nub. This is usually timing thin with your stroke if you are ripping at the handle at warp speed. Finess it a bit and they'll pop out cleanly--develop a good rhythm and feel for for ejecting completed cartridges and simultaneously seating primers. - fully seat your primers. If you don't, you'll know it and the shell plate will jam up due to the protrusion. This is probably the case for any press. - bulged fired primers can be a PITA to slip in the shell plate depending on how bad they are protruding. Not sure which guns do this but you know it instantnly when the shell teeters on the lumpy primer. - locktite all the little allen screws on the powder measure linkage. - tighten your shell plate bolt well - raise the ram 2 inches to disengage the pawls fully, insert a block of wood between the frame and under the ram and set it down. Insert a small allen wrench down the spent primer tube to lock the shell plate and give the main bolt a good tightening (if you just barely tighten it, it will work loose). My pre-flight check before a loading session is: - make sure powder measure linkage screws (thumb and allen) are tight and linkage is lubed. - make sure there are no powder bits clogging up the shell plate above or below. - Shell plate bolt is tight. - lube primer slide with a shot of Hornady One Shot dry lube and verify no powder bits are blocking. - lube EZ ejecter nub and spring channel with a shot of One Shot. Some additional suggestions for reloading are to get some sort of powder check die like the Powder Cop or Lockout Die. For a new reloader, its a nice indicator that your powder charge is neither a squib nor a double. Get the hornady micrometer insert for the powder measure rotor if you are goign to reload a bunch of different calibers. For more than 2, it makes it more cost effective since you can just dial back in the value you recorded rather than buying separate metering inserts or *gasp* re-adjusting the stock nut and bolt one! Inertial pullers suck a**, get a cam-lock one if you ever think you'll pull down bullets. The powder drain insert is a nice handy tool for emptying your measure but one slip and you have 1/4lb of powder on the floor. Ask me how i know. :/ Thats all i got for now i think. I'm not too far from you, give me a shout if you have any questions.

Slav, its a newer, alternative method of cleaning that forgoes the vibratory tumbler and granules, and supplants them with a rotating tumbler filled with a few pounds of small steel sticks, water and maybe a mild detergent. It purportedly gets brass cleaner than the dry method in a fraction of a time and the media lasts a long time. The only downside is the components are more expensive up front (but amortized over time, probably costs less per cleaning) and extra steps (rinsing, separating, drying).

I'm in.

Load hotter. Same thing happens with my CZ when i load them on the mild side. Low recoil=short stroking. Upping my charge ensures healthy and reliable ejection.

Cheyenne Mountain in the Trenton area carries a few Savage rifles. Are you looking to just check one out or do you want to take one home (any dealer can likely order one provided they are available)?

I have a 38 super taurus 1911 that i got on closeout... i've not put a single round through it yet. Care to share some of that ammo stash you got?

I've been keeping the few bottles of powder in a 50 cal ammo can... i guess this is a bad idea then according to the federal guidance?

My one and only experience with wolf ammo in an AR and a stuck shell was due to over-expansion (or under contraction), not dirt. Not knowing what to do, I took the rifle back home and found the "field method" you guys described worked. Wondering what could have caused this issue, i was examining the shell and it appeared somewhat swelled (but not like overpressure. Attempting to re-chamber that shell provided resistance and extraction required another bump so it was definitely an ammo issue. My AR experience is limited so i'm not sure if this is something that could just as easily happen to brass but i understand that the steel alloys that are used for wold ammo don't have the same expansion/contraction curves that brass does so it may be more susceptible to this condition and others.

"state dept"? does that meant the heat and scrutiny from the feds has blown over (or was this a state thing)? why wasn't the atf the interjecting body (or is that the same thing)?

Yeah, i called S&W customer support and they verified there is no factory combo like this. As Vlad stated, you'd have to get the dealer to swap out for you or pin them if possible (which would be silly considering S&W has both 10rd and 15rd mags available separately).

I want to get one of these for production class, however, they only seem to bundle the gun with 17 rd mags. They make the "L" model in a CA Compliant package direct from the factory, bot not the Pro. I mean, S&W has both 10rd and 15rd mags for the M&P9, but they just don't seem to do a bundle.

What has been the price history of these guns? I take it from the comments here that the price has skyrocketed since their introduction?

You generally need to get a scope fairly high off the upper receiver to get good cheek weld ergo's without smashing your face down uncomfortably onto the buttstock. The means using say a 1/2" riser even with high rings unless they are some ultra high tactical rings or a 1-piece base made for the AR like the burris PEPR. Also, if your scope is rather long, you may also need a riser than cantilevers over the barrel a bit to get the scope far enough forward. Having the rear of the scopes' eyepiece roughly flush with the end of the receiver/charging handle is a good neutral place to start with. This will ensure you can get the proper eye relief without craning your neck too far back or forward. This also depends on whether you have a A2 stock or a carbine stock pinned anyplace other than fully extended. If its in a mid position, you may need to mount it even further forward.

butler creek is making a 22 version of the uplula loader called the baby lula. it fits these 22lr single stack mags and some of the smaller 25 and 32 cal centerfires so there are options if you absolutely assistance loading. http://maglula.com/PistolMagLoaders/BabyUpLULA22LRto380ACPnarrowbodymags.aspx

Steph's fixin' to wrassle with some d00dz!

Should you decide you like the CZ (and they can be rented at ShoreShot if i'm not mistaken), also consider the CZ-85B model at the same price point. It is identical to the 75 in all ways except it lacks a firing pin block in the action which translates to a much smoother and lighter trigger pull. Otherwise, its the same, uses the same mags, parts, accessories, etc, they just like to distinguish the model number since this feature is absent.

I've had one of these before and if the chiappa mags are the same thickness as a normal 1911 mag, then no, they'll never possibly work. A ruger/buckmark mag is like half the thickness so that alone wouldn't go.