JonF

Welcome back, buddy!

Fantastic work, Guys!

I've always found the ruger triggers to have a bit of a stacking feel. My SRH has it and my buddies' GP100 has it. Not sure i'd call that smooth. I bought my 686 instead of the GP for this reason alone.

Vlad, loved the new shooter intro. Now, when i run with scissors at home, i never break the 180 rule.

Scorched is right, holy hell! I'm redder than a whore in a confessional!

My CZ has a full length slide to frame rail so the effect of viscosity change is even more pronounced on it. Contrast that with a glock where you could lube it with elmers glue and cornstarch since the rail points are so tiny. lol

I also like to use a grease on certain parts of a firearm, namely areas liek a slide or bolt where a sliding action occurs. My only experience has been with Tetra grease which seems to be a lithium based product. Lately i've not been too happy with its all-season performance. Namely in winter matches where it seems to stiffen up and cause the gun to become sluggish and malfunction. BEcause of this, I had to switch to oil only on some guns just so they will run in colder outdoor temps. I've been eyeing up some Slide Glide lately in 1 or two viscosities, but would like to know how it compares?

They intro'd these at this years shot show so it'll be some time before you see them. I agree its probably a good idea to not be a first adopter if walther/umarex may be producing them.

Crap, i thought it was this sunday. :/ Guess i'll have to wait for the CJ match. The rimfire event sounds good too. My pistols are a bit finicky though so i gotta do something to get more reliability out of them. Its one thing to get 5-6 clean shots off, but 4 mag changes could present an issue. Maybe i'll get one of those ruger 10/22 chargers and do my lightweight treatment to it.

Damn, missed out on the 80mm model.

Varying case length of mixed brass will have an effect not so much OAL, but the bullet seating position in the case. Since you're loading for semi-auto calibers that headspace on the case mouth, its important to develop a OAL value that works with your chamber. Guns with shorter chambers will generally have to seat deeper to avoid sticking the bullet into the rifling before its fully chambered. Since it headspaces on the case mouth, the dimension from case mouth to bullet tip will vary from the extremes of short to long brass. If you seating bullets specifically to a specific chamber as i do my CZ, i have to take in to account a sampling of case length data and seat to the lowest common denominator to avoid sticking one on a piece of short brass. You can build also a tolerance into your OAL but the deeper you seat, the more the pressure can potentially rise, especially if you're going pretty far already to account for a short chamber. Case variation also affects crimp whereas longer cases will get crimped more and shorter cases crimped less for the same die setting. as long as its pretty much removing the bell, its ok though.

Nope, they were already broken (severed trolley cable) when we got there for the fun shoot yesterday (not that we need any of the trolleys). One was even broken before sunday so i hope they get busy with fixing them.

There are some people on this forum with some serious collections! I can't even begin to imagine the preposterous story of evil and malice the media would conjure up if they were given entrance to these collections.

Is it something you can rig with an array of parts in the garage or is it better to just drop the money on the proper kit?

I too remember using NJP's scope once last year at R14 and remarked on the clarity over my cheapo scope. If i find myself doing some more rifle shooting in the future, i think i'd gladly upgrade.

Does OB allow entering multiple guns/categories for these matches?

Off hand, do you know the thread pitch and the amount of axial advance per rotation?

remember, you only need 90* of the usable extractor cut channel for it to ride in. They cut it a lot longer than that to compensate so there could be enough depending on how tight you make it.

i like the Blazer since it runs well in all my 22 pistols and rifles. You do get a few more rounds with the fed ammo but since its bulk boxed, you get a bunch with loose heads and stuff.

hmm... could be some hardened cosmo in the bolt recesses on your Finn. I once had a 91/30 that did the same and repeated cleanings with some angled brushes helped toe finally dig the crud out. In fact, after i pulled the barrel off this donor mosin, there was still cosmo in the bolt recesses and i had been using this one for years!

When you install the TG barrel, does the bolt operate freely at least?

I too have done a little bit with my barrel over the winter. First i turned down the barrel on a lathe a little bit to remove some of the hump. May still remove a bit more to get a smoother profile but that small diameter step where it butts up against the receiver will have to stay, i'm not turning that much material off. I've also separated my stock barrel from my receiver and test fitted the TGI barrel and the timing seems ok. If i tighten it a reasonable amount without any excessive cheater bar induces torque like the stock barrel, the alignment is OK with respect to the extractor cut. If i wanted to crank it down a few hundred foot pounds, i'd have to take some off the barrel or receiver but then i could run into headspace issues. I've checked the headspace with some go/no-go gauges and its fine as it is. Be extremely wary of that if you think you'll remove material. It seems that TGI makes the extractor cut much more generous (ie. longer arc) than the stock barel to compensate for such alignment variances. The only barrel adjustment i had to do so far was do some minor clearancing on the extractor cut channel as it was not milled very evenly at the extreme ends. Cycling the bolt with the barrel installed showed that the tip of the extractor was dragging and hanging up on inside the relief channel so i had to massage that slightly. Have you thought about any muzzle treatment? I'll be eliminating that ugly "crown" they drilled in and putting a brake on it. Maybe a teflon or melonite finish to the metal parts once everything is done.

Coincidentally, J&G just got in a cache of inexpensive and used S&W model 10's and 64's. http://www.jgsales.com/index.php/smith-wesson/revolver/cPath/16_211_431

lol, that's funny.

Pension chaser!