Old School

I use a bluing pen and then oil. Works and matches pretty well You're local I think and can do it if you like. FS

Chris - What's bullet diameter? This is in the Ruger?

Shawn - is it a 50 yd gun? 100 yd gun? You want to use it for defense it sounds like? Looking for 4" groups at 100 yds? I would hope any barrel you buy could do that. Just trying to be practical.

Rick you are so on the money. In a pinch I've even pulled the bolt with the upper on bags and looked down the barrel at the bull then adjusted sights. and the two inches you speak about varies depending as the height of the sights above the center line of the bore. Two is a nice number depending on height if sights or scope. I put the laser dot 1-1 1/2" below the sights.

How far do you expect to shoot w/ a 300BO? What kind of groups do you expect? Are you suppressed, like it was intended to be? Oh yes I would agonize about a quality barrel.

I haven't read all these posts. If you need help I'm 8 miles from CR and will get you on at 50 by laser then zeroed at a 100 in six rounds. I'm here if you need me, it's not a black art.

Print this and keep it in the case with your AR I've used this hundreds of times and still keep a copy. http://www.harvardriflemen.com/AR15zero.pdf

John - I have a heavy refrigerator hand truck you can borrow and a couple of dollies.

PM sent

I call BS....G19 Gen4's are fine.

If you are going to employ best practice...You should always start with the published starting load. If you start with the starting load data in rifle /pistol loads, I don't see primer brand being an issue. Shotgun I don't know about but that has been my experience with rifle/pistol. Of course don't use magnum instead of standard.

Low power shotgun scope...1-4 power

Put the OEM connector in from Bryan and if you are ever going to use this gun for defense you are done. Do no more! Buy the connector and spend the rest of your money on ammo and shoot shoot shoot. My defense guns are stock as they came from the box. It's the Indian not the arrow. BTW my daughter competes with a 5.5 connector and does better than with a 3.5.

325rds 22lr for $19.99

Just a heads up! As of 9am today Dick's Rockaway had 22lr, 5.56, 9mm all at no gouge prices but quantities are strictly limited.

This is a very comprehensive piece and includes what it took me years to learn. One thing I never do though is touch the stricker or trigger bar sear engagement. This is the part I don't like: Striker: I polish the protrusion on the bottom where it interacts with the trigger bar. This further ensures a smooth pull during the cocking and releasing of the firing pin by the trigger bar.

Just my $.02....RCBS dies in the single stage or turret and Dillon carbides in the progessive. Cry once when you buy them and be done with it.

Though this is done it is a PIA. You have to ream the inside of the case necks or yoiu have big problems.

Don't be hard on yourself. I see guys shooting sh!t steel cased ammo stuffed with bat dung and they expect it to be accurate.

Your statement wasn't stupid....Can't take anything for granted.

Agree on all counts but you forgot good quality ammo, preferrably hand loaded.

Shawn with all the time you're on Facebook you must be a 12yo girl.

Eric - I don't know if I like the penetrating oil... I understand you want to kill the rust but you have to degrease it off of there again....

Two pieces of advice when cold blueing. Degrease, Degrease, Degrease! I used to do it with live steam when available. And secondly, apply to the surface when it is VERY warm almost as hot as you can hold. And of course don't hold it with your bare hand because your hand has oils on it. Applying in nice even strokes helps too. Tropher has done some decent cold bluing, hope he chimes in.

I have no idea but no reason to doubt it.