MidwestPX

My pistols are all loaded with HST with the exception of my 10mm guns which are loaded with DT 165gr which use Barnes bonded bullets. My bedside SBR has 62gr bonded Federal while my 16" guns are loaded with 75gr 5.56 TAP. My .308s are all 155gr AMAX which DocGKR has pretty much said is the most amazing bullet ever to hit ballistic gel. Personally, I'd keep an eye out on the new Speer Gold Dot. I heard the FBI found it to be 120% amazeballs.

I need to find time to get out to Alliance this year. I asked Pat if I could run the shoothouse with a Mk46. He said I'm paying for targets

PDW-type stock installed on my Fergudishu blaster When collapsed, it's 4" shorter than a collapsed carbine stock. When extended, it's the same length as a collapsed carbine stock. It adds about 5oz to the rifle which isn't that bad since it's all at the ass end.

Mega Arms also makes some. 16", 18" and 20" nitrided 416 stainless. The 20" is a rifle length gas while the other two are midlength. They're all guaranteed to be sub-MOA with match ammo too.

The terminal ballistics of a .30 caliber bullet coming out of such a short barrel would make it pointless. Even at the muzzle, you wouldn't have the velocity needed for reliable expansion or fragmentation (depending on bullet design) with even the mid-weight projectiles. You might get 50 yards out of a 110gr bullet but that would be a poor choice for hogs. I can build SBRs legally but wouldn't go beyond 14.5" for utility's sake. I did, however, just build a 16" barreled .308 AR that weighs within a half pound of my 18" 5.56 SPR. That rifle will send a 155gr AMAX out at 2600FPS and hit at 400yds with more energy than hot 70+ grain 5.56 loads would at the muzzle. It's a rifle I plan to hunt with so weight was a concern but I'm a firm believer that with the increased number of parts available for .308 builds and the steady reduction in cost of those parts, .308 carbines are going to start rivaling 5.56 AR15s as far as utility since the increased potency of .308 makes up for the reduction in magazine capacity (a consideration that isn't an issue in NJ).

I carry a Shield sometimes. I prefer a G19 with a G26 backup though.

Preach, Brother HE!

Thanks for the order! We're getting caught up having been pounded by snow and ridiculously cold temps. We were actually closed this morning as one of the pipes in my home froze so I kept the shop closed until just a couple hours ago. Damn winter...

Build your own. A match grade barrel with an in-spec upper won't let you down. If you really wanted to push the envelope (and budget), use a billet upper as the face of the bore in which the barrel extension is installed is typically truer than forged. Or you can send a forged lower out to be trued. Personally, I've built two precision AR uppers on off the shelf forged upper receivers and have no problem getting sub-MOA groups.

If their store was in PA and you're a NJ resident, he was correct in telling you he couldn't sell you the handgun because of ATF rules. They would have had to ship it to a NJ FFL who would then transfer it to you.

First build of the new year Comes in at 11lbs 8.1oz with a 20rd mag of 155gr AMAX. This will be my stomping around carbine, particularly at night while I hunt mountain lions.

I must have looked like an idiot when I checked every single piece of the first 100 I loaded on my 1050. I literally grabbed each round, brought it to my ear, and shook it to make sure I could hear powder inside

I learned to reload on one. Very comfortable press to operate with tons of leverage. Having loaded untold thousands of rounds on one, I've since moved on to a Dillon 1050 (an entirely different animal that I'm still tackling) but I keep my RC for single loads like match ammo.

I buy my components at wholesale prices and with some items, by the pallet, to get them cheaper. I also have friends who have DoD contracts to demil parts so I get projectiles pretty cheaply. My powder is also OEM powder which comes in 35lb kegs and a little cheaper than the 8lb retail jugs. I did discover that the swager on my 1050 isn't working properly because the primer swage adjustment bolt (PN 13245) was bent. I'll be calling Dillon on Monday to get a replacement.

I have multiple variants of the P3X. The 15/1000 is my bedside light. 15 lumens is perfect for when I need to walk around at night and not light up the room and startle my dogs and wife but having 1000 on-demand for other tasks is certainly nice. I've got the EAG version on my in-progress .308 build which I'll be using to stomp around my timber at night, hunting for a mountain lion that's out there. The third, and least used variant, of the P3X that I have is the single output push/turn model. Push and hold the button for momentary on or turn the cap for constant on. I don't like it as much on a long gun due to the aforementioned "switchology" but it's not a bad light for general stomping around outside in the dark. A friend of mine did some testing of various flashlights using specialized equipment designed for measuring lux which is in turn used to calculate lumens. The other brands he tested were Fenix and Olight, relatively cheap flashlights with relatively high advertised output. What he found was the Surefire was slightly underrated and the Fenix was slightly overrated with the Olight being overrated by about 30% which would indicate they're measuring output at the LED, a popular marketing trick in the world of flashlights.

Certainly. I've loaded countless rounds on a single stage Rockchucker to learn the process of reloading. However, this 1050 is my first progressive press and I now understand why most people don't recommend starting here but rather upgrading to a 1050 from a 550 or 650. I still have issues trusting the powder measure. I probably threw 200 charges before I loaded the first round due to that.

Loaded my first 100 rounds today. 10 of them had crushed primers. Some people say to sort by headstamp and adjust the swager as necessary. I might take the lazy way out and just adjust it to swage a little more and hope I don't destroy primer pockets... Anyhow, of them, two were missing primers and one was missing powder. I'm chalking it up to operator error. I'll shoot these, load another 100, check all of them, and if they're good, I'll set up the bullet feeder and go into high volume production.

As far as diameters go, there's milspec and there's commercial. Typically, commercial sized extensions are made of 6061 aluminum and have cut threads. Milspec diameter extensions are made from either 7075 (stronger) or 6061 and have rolled (stronger) or cut threads. If cost is no object, you want a milspec diameter extension made from 7075 with rolled threads. The extensions in our house brand kit linked above are milspec diameter, 6061 aluminum, and have rolled threads. In my opinion, the threads being rolled is more important than the material type as it dramatically increases the surface area interaction between the extension and the receiver, giving it more strength.

Nothing definite in either direction.

Yes, the last one sold today.

This is bugging the everloving crap out of me but my swaging die on my 1050 is "missing" some primer pockets while removing the crimps in most others without issue. Do I need to sort my brass by headstamp and adjust the swaging die for each headstamp? Please say no, please say no, please say no...

This. 6.5G shines with longer tubes.

$0.25 trigger job is the best way to improve a Glock trigger, IMO. You polish the ever-loving crap out of every part in the trigger assembly that slides past another part. Once those surfaces are reflective as a mirror, you'd never believe it was a Glock.

As some of you may be aware, my wife is a pediatrician. In fact, she's the only pediatrician in two counties and she's pretty far from anti-gun. She asks the firearm question of each new family when establishing care for the sole purpose of reinforcing safety. She also tells people to lock up chemicals in the garage or under the sink and basic childproofing. Some people are awfully sensitive to that question and go so far as to think a database of who owns guns and who doesn't is generated using that question.

Sort of. Some processors are set up to send a $1 pre-auth charge to make sure the card is valid before putting in the auth/capture for the full amount. Other times, it's a fraudster testing the card prior to selling the card info. Our first CC processing company was set up to send $1 pre-auth charges which caused some customers to wonder why they were being billed $1 in addition to their order total. The $1 pre-auth would never post and would fall off in a couple business days but I can't count how many emails I answered about that. The reason why only $1 was used as a pre-auth amount was to prevent tying up large® amounts of available credit/funds on the customer's card. If, for instance, the customer was trying to buy $300 of stuff on a card with only a $500 limit, sending a pre-auth amount of $300 would tie up $300 of the $500 credit and when the pre-auth comes back as good and the transaction goes forward, there isn't enough left on the card to finish the transaction.