Shocker

I have that first one that sniper posted, the two parts come apart (third picture down in the amazon listing) and both sides have an RJ45 port. You plug one end of the cable into one side of the tester and take the other side to the other end of the cable (next room, next town, whatever). Then it checks continuity

I was going to get a RWS 34 but ended up with an Xisico XS25 which is a Chinese clone. That one slides in under your budget, unlike the real RWS

I didn't read that linked thread but the Duty-Carry AEK trigger return spring is stiffer than stock, at least with the M&P. Just using the stock return spring will give you a lighter trigger. However it may be so light that the trigger safety doesn't deactivate very well so you'll have to play around with that. If you got a competition AEK then this is all moot.

This thing says about 37 rounds/lb of 5.56 (acknowledging the bullet weights are not included) https://www.ammoman.com/ammo-by-the-pound So at $15 per lb that's 41 cents per round. So not horrible but not good? EDIT: whoops previous response has the price per pound/price per round already. But I added rifle. But I think that display was mostly to troll Walmart after they pulled some ammo types

I have no idea I don't own either of those guns but the Walther looks like it would be no problem. The Mark IV might be due to the rounded sides though

I use the ncstar universal sight tool. It’s about $10 more but I’ve used it on both front and back sights the one above might be fine too but I have experience with the ncstar

Borrow someone's dual action random orbital polisher and some compound. The D/A is much safer for people who don't know what they're doing. I have one you could use but I'm not in Charleston, if that location is accurate

Oh man

Theories off the top of my head: 1. The striker block is still blocking, although that seems unlikely if the tape test got a puncture - the striker should barely budge if the block isn’t moved 2. There is crap in the striker channel that is arresting the striker, or that sleeve is still buggered up 3. The firing pin is too short to get a good strike. It’s possible the tip broke which is why it started all of a sudden can you try the striker from your missus’s shield to rule out #3? It appears there is only one striker assembly across the m&p line

The plastic at the front end looks right, that’s what captures the spring. To get that off you retract the spring and the collar slides off sideways once it’s uncovered ...which you’ll probably have to do, in order to reorient that back section.

I’m just going off memory but I thought the little shoulder lump at the top of the striker leg should be INSIDE the sleeve i.e if you look at the assembly from the back with the leg at 12 o’clock that half-sleeve should be rotated counterclockwise let me google that... edit: see here...the sleeve is up against/touching the leg on the right side...but I don’t know if that’s a 1.0, 2.0 or whatever

I have both 1.0 and 2.0 and the 2.0 will not auto-forward at all, compared to the 1.0. I was told by someone that was a conscious decision by S&W. I can release the 2.0 slide stop with a thumb tho

I can’t really tell much from that pic...if you poke the striker block down with your finger can you move the striker forward enough to see the pin come out the breech face? that white sleeve might be in wrong...would be an easy fix in person but Im on vacay what happened in between working and not working?

I've used CFE223 with great success with 69 and 75 grain bullets but IIRC it would never hold the bold open with the 55's just like you're seeing. I do have an adjustable gas block and turning up the gas would fix the issue but I had to remember to turn it back down to use other ammo which isn't ideal. I think the CFE223 is simply a hair too slow for this application and consequently the port pressure is a hair too low. Maybe you'll get lucky with your loading adjustments (or maybe you'll end up with cartridges that won't feed) but you may just have to get a faster powder.

The “pin” is the striker leg? Or the striker block? The white sleeve is supposed to stick out a little bit at the front of the striker leg slot, that’s how you release the back plate. But I’m probably not understanding your “off center”

If the trigger bar timing is off the bar could theoretically be releasing the sear without having the striker block out of the way. Do you feel the break of the sear when you’re pulling the trigger? @SW9racer I thought the loop was removed from the trigger bar in the 2.0 models (I.e. no more adjustments) but maybe I’m wrong

My brother and I have the same name too. And I probably didn't have to do anything nor should you. I only mentioned it because it was shortly after the law changed and he's in Hillsborough who are (anecdotally) not always up to speed on gun laws.

I added a post-it to the local PD copy, highlighting that it was a f2f between brothers...but I didn’t have to do thAt. and neither he nor I ever heard anything further. EDIT: whoops that’s not really what you were asking. No, I’ve never used anything other than a regular stamped first class envelope

Home Depot will thread your pipes for free (at least the one in Bridgewater did), although you better be pretty good with the measurements or be prepared to go back and forth a lot

Laws are changing on the fans in a month so you're probably going to need a whole new unit to support that anyway https://www.achrnews.com/articles/136459-fer-standards-require-electronically-commutated-motors Not sure how much a repairer can do without being forced to bring the unit into compliance

I'm using the Nevada plan through vanguard, I opened them as soon as I got my kids' SSN. It made the most sense when I started several years ago, I haven't re-researched it since then tho I have heard talk about using other retirement accounts to pay for education without penalty (e.g. starting an IRA explicitly for college, with the intention of rolling it over if it's not exhausted) but those tax implications are beyond my pay grade

My parents use milorganite and like it but for whatever reason I can’t bring myself to spread human turds on my lawn. Plus it stinks. Natch.

Yeah 15’s are $25 so even with a $5 magblock $38 isn’t all that super

I can tell you it’s hard to find the 10-round M&P 2.0 compact mags unless you want to pay MSRP, which is about double the “normal” price way cheaper to ship the 15-rounders to a friend in free America and pin them