Shocker

My Pmags hung up in my Anderson lower until I sanded down the protrusion on the mags right below where the magazine catch engages. Just by a hair, NBD. Gen 3 mags, if that matters

Because the stresses at the strain rate of a ballistic impact so far overwhelm the yield strength of the material that it the driving physics are better modeled by hydrodynamics where viscosity is more important. In the shock physics regime almost all materials act like a compressible fluid. Yes, the material heats but a phase change from melting is an after effect. Even shaped charges don't melt their targets at a primary defeat mechanism.

I got "shot timer" when the Surefire app disappeared and it seems better so far. Also free.

The G2S will be $110 at Geissele w free shipping on cyber Monday...anything else swing away!

Thanks, I'll give it a try. $15 cheaper than the last melonited BCG that I saw on sale, too Now I just need a trigger

Sorry...my .40 works like your .40 Maybe they did change the firing pin/striker but not enough that my calibrated eyeball can tell. When you put the 9 striker in your old 40 (opposite of what you describe in red) does the .40 start doing the odd behavior?

My .40 works like yours. However recently I had the shoulder of the firing pin "leg" (the part that has to interface with the striker block) round off such that the firing pin would cam the striker block out of it's own way (!!!) I replaced the firing pin, striker block, sear and trigger bar, all of which had newer revisions than I had. But in doing so I could compare the old firing pin to the new one and I couldn't tell any difference. Since I can't discern any difference in firing pin I was wondering if the striker block hole is further aft on your 9 pro (even the slightest little bit), such that the leg of the firing pin can't get past the block it until it's pulled back a little. If so it would still be safe, since as soon as the slide is moved that firing pin leg will drop past the sear and the striker block will be free to drop down into "blocking position" But it's all wild speculation without seeing your gun

See post 18. Yes.

Agreed, I think it's on the slower end of pistol powders A large charge of a slow powder in a short barrel (what kind of gun was it?) = powder burning in the air outside the barrel = fireball and big bang.

I just got simplisafe, yes you could use it unmonitored (says so in the FAQ although I'm not sure how you'd order it that way). Also if you pick a refurb set of equipment and hunt down a 10% off coupon it's pretty affordable.

I like mine too. I found one for $100 so I had to jump in I've been putting a strip of masking tape down each side of the blade before I start sharpening after I noticed the mark it makes on high spots. Freehanding works too but I like those guides.

I'm not aware of a way to shoot both of those calibers in the M&P, the .45 frame is physically different from the .357/.40/9mm. So that's out the window. The conversion kit for the 320 doesn't seem like it's worth the cost just to "try at the range". I'd find someone who will let me paw at their gear first.

I wasn't too familiar with the VP9 mechanism but I found this interesting read https://lanzerbot.wordpress.com/2015/02/08/case-study-ppq-vs-vp9-trigger/ best I can tell the HK/S&W mechanisms with the rotating sear are somewhat similar, as opposed to the sliding system Glock uses The Apex kit is made to much tighter tolerances than factory so it has an advantage no matter what. It's not a fair comparison but that being said I love my M&P. (I have the DCAEK and it was a 99% solution...after mirror polishing the back ramp of the striker block leg of the trigger bar it's reeeeaaaaly nice...)

I vote the Kahr for the capacity. I chose my Shield in 9mm over .40 simply due to the extra round in the mag. Although you could always carry the XDS with the 5-rounder and have an extended magazine as your reload.

I'll just throw in that Titegroup will do target loads for .40 also, if you ever get one of those. That's what I used until I found VV N320

I don't have any autos b/c I think flippers open just as fast...but if I did, I really like the idea of something like the Pro-Tech Harkins where the button is part of the inlay (http://www.protechknives.com/knives/switchblades/harkins-atac-knives.asp). Very discrete.

No, your equation says it has 70% more momentum. If you square the velocities to actually get energy you're looking at 137% more energy The units don't matter anyway bc when you divide for the percent increase all units drop out

I'm scrawny and I use a Theis for my Shield - It's a Crossbreed clone but cheaper and plain belt clips (no "hey what do you have there" embossed crosses)

My Ira at vanguard is in a target date fund (VFIFX although that may not be the right year for you) I have no interest in actively managing my accounts and automatically diversified or index funds tend to have lower costs than paying someone else to actively manage

Of course stainless can be sharpened, some stainless is harder to sharpen than others...I just picked up a Worksharp Ken Onion because I have an Elmax blade that is a real bitch to sharpen with stones Both the F.Dick and Henckels use stainless extensively, possibly exclusively. Shun too.

Will be hot in the range on Sunday. Make sure you bring your body spray.

I just got some Vihtavuori from Garden State and they had Titegroup in stock too but it's because they're quite expensive there (products at about 1.5-2x what Powder Valley asks). But if you want something specific and you want it right now that's the deal.

I have a Dremel butane soldering iron where the kit comes with a half dozen tips or so. There's one tip that looks like a ballpoint pen and with an adjustable temperature flame i bet that would be just the ticket. I haven't stippled yet but I use the blade tip for cutting/fusing paracord, the deflector tip for fine tuning kydex, etc. Oh, and it solders too.

Those look like disintegrating links so if it was actually fed through an M60/M240/whatever the links would have come apart. If the primers are all struck that means someone took the time to re-link empty brass. Have to assume their intention was to simply make a conversation piece at that point. I want one tho...