specopsscout

Building one on your own, particularly if you don't know what you're doing is a quick road to a big and sometimes enduring headache. It doesn't take much effort to find hundreds of threads on many gun forums from folks who can't get their home built/frankengun/project rifles to work. When they don't, it's mostly on you, and the other "internet experts" to fix. With a complete rifle from a reputable source, you not only have someplace to turn if something goes wrong, but the better quality you buy, the less likelihood of it having a problem in the first place. Building your own gun really seemed to come in vogue years ago, when the choices and options were pretty slim. Now a days with a little searching, you can find about every option or variation you want from a quality manufacture, complete with a full warranty. Priced out with equivalent quality parts(not junk that looks similar), the monetary savings shrink quickly, when you consider there is no real warranty with your new expensive rifle. Resale is also much easier and will hold more value with a "name" rifle instead of a home build. No one really wants to buy another guy's headache...they really aren't Legos, regardless of how many YouTube videos suggest they are...

Yes, because you transfer your revolver into your non-dominate hand and reload with your dominant hand. The speed loaders should be most accessible to that hand.

No Problem, Brother. I just wanted to make sure you understood the relationship the ammunition plays. It's easy to get discouraged when you first start out, and shooting what equates to military ball in a precision rifle will not normally generate the results the shooter is expecting or hoping for. Good luck and have fun...

Ammunition is another leg in your quest for a precision shooting rifle. You should be looking for things that say something in the line of 175 grn. Match, M118LR, or MK316. Unless you reload, you should test out factory loads from the big names like Federal, Winchester, Remington, Hornady, ect. to see what your rifle likes. Once you determine what you and it likes, start buying the ammunition in bulk, within the same lot number. As your skills improve, you will need to rezero with new lot numbers when your bulk ammo runs out, and keep track of their performance in your log book. Yes, even with the same load from the same manufacturer, you will see variance in lot numbers. It's all about consistency and removing variables. All ammunition is not created equal...

Correct

You need to get out of the mindset of "I can hand x number of 3" slugs, so I can handle the bigger calibers." To really develop skill with a precision rifle, you will need to shoot...a lot. Grab your shot gun, head to the range, prone out on your belly and shoot a hundred of those 3" slugs, concentrating with complete precision for each shot...That's day one. Now rinse and repeat...often. Precision rifle skills are perishable, and need to be maintained...

The .308 will make a much better learning tool then either of the other two in regards to ammunition cost, recoil, and system cost; in both the initial outlay and follow on with barrel replacement. I have shot my .308 out well beyond the mythical one thousand yard line; the 175 Match grain loads are the loads of choice. I'd recommend looking at the Remington and/ or Savage for your entry level precision rifle. Both will give you great performance out of the box, and likely shoot better then you for some time. They also have a large following of aftermarket vendors to further upgrade your stick down the line, as you learn what your wants and needs really are. Just remember, the rifle is only one part. You'll still need good glass, a good mounting system, quality maintenance gear, and of course match grade ammunition...at a basic minimum.

I must be doing something wrong. I drove around with an NRA Life Member decal on the back window of my last two vehicles for about twelve years without any problems...

If you are already set up to co witness, why remove the sight? It's more practical to train with the optic in place, as the point of Back Up Iron Sights, is for back up when the primary sight goes down. If you are just plinking, it's immaterial, but if it's a personal defense weapon, we fight as we train, and you won't be pulling your primary in the middle of a gun fight...

If it's the report I'm thinking of, they were stolen while the Officer was in the fitness center. Cops really only shower with their guns in the movies...

If you can afford it, buy it. If you really can't, then don't. Buy the best protection you can afford that still allows you to enjoy your bike. Leather protects you from abrasion, not impact. High end in leather, and you might still break a bunch of bones, but avoid the road rash...The inflating vests and collars are in their infancy, but they are coming...

Snap caps are notoriously unreliable in weapons. They aren't made to the same sizing standard as dummy ammunition for practicing drills. The o-ring is supposed to be there. It adds extra force for the extractor to assist in removing cases from the chamber that might otherwise be sticky.

http://www.stactionpro.com/action-trainer-dummy-rounds-c-1.html These make a good training tool, as well and are cheaper...

I have a Lincoln 35, and it rocks. Get the biometric lock if you plan on going in it often. Push one button, lay and of a number of preprogramed fingers on and you are in, in about five seconds...

Take out the button by depressing the little tab you can see in the window when the stock is folded. Remove the spring from under the button. Drive to Lowes and find a nut that fits tightly up inside the button and a matching allen head screw that's approximately an inch long. Drill a small hole in the button so that you can access the allen head screw. Place a penny in the bottom of the well, so the bolt has something metal to brace up against. Reinstall the button with the nut and screw, then with the stock in the fully open position, use a thin allen wrench to tighten the bolt and lock the button in place, thus preventing the stock from folding. It is ultimately reversible with only a small hole in the stock button, should you move to Free America, or sell it in same.

Personally, I think it's just one of those opinion things...There are some who suggest that the very late production Gen3's picked up some of the new tech, and thus perceived shortcomings of the Gen4. Reportedly, it has to do with Glock subcontracting out certain parts like the extractor, and the parts lacking the same QC as Glock proper. There is also the suggestion that the parts are not as durable and as they wear in, problems arise. Nothing made by man is perfect. I liked my Gen2's, but decided to give the Gen3 a run and had zero issues. With the Gen3 as compared to the Gen2, you gained finger grooves, that don't fit some folks hands(they fit my medium sized hands fine), and cause others to develop Glock knuckle(I never had this issue in something approaching 15G rounds through Glocks; I must be doing something wrong). You also gained a front rail on the dustcover for attaching lights and what not, which reportedly causes some pistols to malfunction as the added weight of some of the items mounted there cause the polymer frame to flex in a different fashion, reducing reliability. You just can't please all of the people, all of the time. I think the greatest new Glockism is the buying of Gen3's and Gen4's only to grind off the finger grooves and re-profile them to look like Gen1's... For those who have Gen4 extraction problems; the Apex Extractor is an aftermarket fix that appears to be well received... https://apextactical....php?pid67.html

If the Gen3 being outdated in a few years is a concern, I'm royally screwed. I still have a Gen2 Glock 17...Your have noting to worry about...

Most of the Glock growing pains are with the newer Gen4. The Gen3 had less reported issues of things like extractors causing brass in the face, and captive springs jumping the rods. I carried a Glock 22 Gen3 for five years before carrying a Gen3 G35 for the next eight. Each had thousands of rounds through them without issue.

I have an older German Sig P226 with thousands of completly reliable rounds through it that was my Father's gun before it became mine. He and I used to shoot together and I never witnessed it fail, nor has it ever bobbled on me. I liked it so much, that when I became a CO, I immediately gravitated to carrying a Sig. I bought a new American made Sig P229. I broke the extractor on it three times. I fell and landed on the pistol, which broke a grip panel allowing a pin move out of place, completely disabling the pistol. I also had signiifcant issues with the pistol rusting from my sweat, regardless of what protectant I used. Sentry Solutions Marine cloth was the best, but I still had to wipe it down on a regular if there was any moisture around or it would still find a way to rust.

When you submit your order it advises you they are operating on a three week delay.

Wow...they told me the same thing when I got my Liberty Lincold 35, and we are anticipating a move in the next six months...

Don't fart...someone might think you're on fire...

I had one for my LAR Grizzly in .45 Winchester Magnum, and it while it changed the pistol's look, it wasn't particularly effective at reducing recoil or muzzle flip.

Had a Cavalry Arms lower years ago that I put a few thousand rounds through without issue. Sold it because I like to modify and make stuff mine, and with a one piece design with pistol grip and stock, there wasn't a lot of room for customizing and fitting. As I recall, there have been several articles over the years that basically state the AR lower receiver isn't imparted any significant stress as a result of the firing cycle, and basically just holds things in the right spot to allow functioning. It's one of the reasons folks have been able to make functional lowers on 3D printers more recently...