Silphidae

Just got my Benelli M2 back from Triangle Shooting Sports (Benny Hill) and he doesn't do stippling. Bought a battery operated soldering gun at Lowes and went to town. Decided to go ultra aggressive on the forend by using the side of the iron and completely obliterating the existing pattern. The stock is a different material that the forend and was much harder to get the same pattern. Decided to go less aggressive and ended up with a pattern very similar to a Glock Gen 4 grip, which is just about perfect for the grip in my opinion. Just thought I'd share, with a little practice I was very happy how my first stipple job turned out. I tried copying the generic pattern that I generally see online, but I didn't feel it was aggressive enough for my taste. The forend pattern is on par with brand new skate board tape and hopefully won't have to be replaced anytime soon.

I have a few of the ESS Crossbow Suppresors and they are awesome for use with earmuffs, super thin and comfortable all day. I just picked up a new pair of frames with the copper high def lenses from amazon for $29.00 last week complete. Can't beat that price and I really liked them, great color definition in the bright sun yesterday. The lenses are my favorite color so far.

I picked up the new generation from Cabelas a few months ago. Filled it with kosher salt and we can hit 'em up to 24" away pretty effectively. At ~12" it still penetrates a single piece of aluminum foil. Yes, you do get some salt on the floor but it's hardly noticeable. I also have a family of 5 with 2 dogs so the floor is cleaned almost daily so maybe my tolerance is different.

What do you think of the agency magwell? Does it offer enough "scoop" to help reloads?

God damn it, Gump! You're a god damn genius! This is the most outstanding answer I have ever heard. You must have a goddamn I.Q. of 160. You are goddamn gifted, Private Gump. Listen up, people...

Travelling heavily next few weeks, I'll take you up on that if I can't figure it out. Thanks,

I'll give that a shot, thanks,

May try a hand primer and se if that belps.

Who knows, it works fine with small pistol primers.

No media in the flash hole, completely clean. I'm swaging on SS600 and I'm getting the same issue with both military and non-military, although military happens more often. I've set the SS600 so I can barely seat the case in the Swager because it is so tight. Can see how to swage anymore that it already is. . Darn this rifle reloading thing is a lot harder than pistol rounds, just loaded up 2k 9mm with NO issues.

The anvil is locked in place, I tightened the shell plate and there is no debris around the shaft that would prevent full seating that I can see.

Running into a hiccup in the primer seat step. Here's the process I'm following..... First pass through 550b RCBS Universal Decap Trim/Size with RT1500 Decrimp on Dillon Super Swage 600 Second pass through 550b 21st Century expander die AND seat primer Add powder without expanding neck Seat bullet Lee Factory Crimp Die I'm using CCI #400 Small Rifle Primers and can't seem to seat them fully, When I'm seating the primers I hit a hard stop but they are NOT flush in the case. I don't know if it's a decrimp issue because I run into the same issue whether I'm using PMC (non-crimped) or military stuff. Even tried to "over de-crimp" and come against the issue. Thoughts?

Ok, guess it's not as simple as getting a higher power battery operated wifi for the GoPro that my phone can pick up. Half of this is over my head but I get it, spend the $400!if I want one!!!!!

Thought this looked pretty cool. I can't see small holes with the Simmons spotting scope I have so if I could get a wifi booster for cheap thought it may work like one of these commercial units. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/512717/caldwell-ballistic-precision-lr-1-mile-target-camera-system

I'm intrigued by the target cameras that are out there, but not really looking to spend $400 - $900 for one. I have a GoPro with the app on my iPhone and it works well, what would it take for me to boost the wifi range of the GoPro and can it be done cheaply? Looking to get 800yds out of it if possible. I've done some searching and it would be great to hear from someone who may have done this and could share (in very simple terms) what would be needed. Thoughts?

I'll say that I now have quite a few fiber optic front sights and I've learned to use them appropriately. If I line up the top of the front sight with the top of the back sights the poi matches the fiber optic dot perfectly. This has worked with multiple sets of Dawson Precision sights for the G34, G19 and G17 and Battlesight on the X-Tac. If you find that the poi is a little different with this technique Dawson will help you get the "perfect impact" you desire, but I have not had to do that since lining up the tops of the sights as the recommended sets come from the factory with the fo dot right at poa/poi.

Thanks for the video links, thought I was set up alright but when I get on the rifle cold (after 12 hours plus) my sight picture is always a little different so I still jeeed some help. Downloaded the Cleckner book and have already reached out to Freddy. Wish there was a class a little sooner but that's ok, as this is going to be an expensive hobby if I get into it!

Looking for a basic class to get fundamentals down so i can ensure im practicing with good technique. Ive attended Seeklander's 3 day competitive shooting class and it was eye opening how much my competitive shooting improved. Also gave me a solid home trainimg plan to ensure continued advancement on my own. Black Hat introduction/imtermediate class description seems on point bit its not til May. I do like the idea of PRS vs F Class.

Ill pm you, was just going to telco at the 100yd range to get a zero and try to set it up. 200yds could be more funner!

Just picked up a RPR in 6.5C, have Razor II 4.5-27, Badger Rings and 6-9 Harris BiPod. Looking for suggestions on how to set up the rifle to fit me or a good article on the subject. I can play with LOP, Cant, Butt Cheek Height and scope position. Example - If I keep LOP from the box, the scope needs to be quite far forward - obvious sign I need to adjust LOP (I assume). Should the scope be at a certain position and then LOP adjusted and if so what is that optimal position? Where/when should I mess with cant? I get the Butt Cheek riser, that's easy. The rest is a little concerning. Any suggestions are welcome, especially those that point me to a good reference article and yes I did a search but I didn't find a lot of help with such a modular system as the RPR. I'll be taking it out on Sunday to break this in so have a few days to get comfortable. Second question is I need a class....Black Hat seems to have some decent reviews. Any other suggestions welcomed especially if they're close to NJ.

Just had one done at 1pm and it took 5 minutes.

Midwest, Do you find tumbling in regular walnut/corncob mixture enough to help deburr after the 21st Century expander? I have it on order hopefully I'll be ready to go by mid week.

This is PERFECT, thank you. Great point about universal decap vs. full size. Also, I have plenty of space in the machine to add another station so I'll look for 21st century neck expander just to ensure that neck tension is spot on.

Thanks, Definitely full size with the Dillon and won't flare the neck. Looks like Lee Factory Crimp will be the winner.

Ok, I have almost 20k pistol rounds under my belt and just getting into .223 for the first time. I have questions around the prep process that will be on my Dillon 550b with an RT1500 trimmer. The three questions are focused on decap and neck sizing. Plans: Position 1 - I have a RCBS sizing/decap die already, should I just back it out so it does not size the neck but still decaps or go with a universal decap die? I'd prefer to use the RCBS sizing/decap that I already have as long as no downsides. Position 2 - I'll trim/size with the Dillon RT1500. Position 3 - I've read some people run a die that opens up the neck diameter to a consistent diameter. I'm assuming the RT1500 trimmer/size die will do this adequately but want to get some thoughts is this extra step is even necessary and what would I use for this? Also, I am very confused on whether crimp is needed or not? Lyman manual says yes if used in semi-auto but this is a real toss up based on real world experience. Thoughts? I'll be using xtreme 55 grainers with cannelure. I will have a case length/headspace gauge to ensure sizing is good.