2Alpha

I would talk to www.burwellguns.com or www.businessendcustoms.com, or www.ccgunworks.com see what their timeframes are. A lightened slide doesn't reduce recoil, but it does get the recoil impulse over quicker. The gun will feel harsher to shoot, but will recover faster

To get the gun flat and soft, you need to tune the whole gun. Comp, adjustable gas block, BCG weight, buffer weight and spring. And all this needs to be tuned to your shooting style. At the next rifle match ask to try a proper competition rifle that has been tuned correctly, you will be amazed at how flat and soft it will shoot. But at a match like shongum, there probably will only be 1 or 2 tuned rifles

milder load don't always work the comp well.

There really isn't any right or wrong. It is faster to transition with both eyes open and shoot both eyes open even on magnification. But if you have to close one eye to make the shot then do so, especially on difficult shots. What you want is enough magnification to be able to call you shot(50y open target is 1x), but not so much that you can't see where you want to transition to. That is the benefit of scopes with huge FOV even when magnified. If at 50 yards, you lose a target do to recoil and have a hard time finding it, then you had too much magnification and poor technique and/or poorly tuned rifle.

use whatever magnification you need to make the shot. If its open targets at 50 yards with time plus scoring, 1x on the XTR will let you burn across them. If tight head shots are needed, then you probably will want to bump up the magnification to what makes it easy to call your shots and find the next target. I don't shoot well at speed with magnification, even out to 200 yards, I get a case of the wobbles. But others need maginification. I used to run a XTR, I had a terrible time with it. Couldn't shoot fast at any distance and had trouble with contrast inside the circle at distance. Ended up dumping that for an acog which worked better, but ulitmately went with vortex 1-6. Also, you made want to tune your rifle to shoot flatter, not reason it should come off target at 50 yards. Get out and practice, its the only way to know what works for you.

the thing about comps is not only do they react differently for each shooter, they react different for different types of guns. So a miculek works awesome on my 14.5" mid, but not as well on my 16" Mid. JP comps work great on 18" but not as well on 16 and under. my DD comp had too much down force for a 14.5 but was OK for a 18. The only brake that I have tried that works great on everything is a SJC titan

the exit hole on the ebay comp looks huge. probably to prevent baffle strike on an off center bore line. Metal is probably softer than what is needed to prevent pitting. I wouldn't go through the time and money to pin that thing on For $7 more you could have gotten a Miculek comp

They both make excellent barrels, it will really come down to fit of the barrel. A EZ fit barrel will never surpass a properly hard fit quality barrel in accuracy. But the EZ fit makes it easy to do it yourself with good results If you are going to have a smith do the work, then any of the following manufacturers make great barrels. Kart. Barsto, SV, Sheumann, STI

I would go with a Kart EZ fit and do it yourself

The vortex Razr 1-6x is awesome, fast as a red dot up close with excellent clarity and brightness

the barrel will be non ramped.

The sling shot is a fine motor skill, just like hitting the slide release. Anything done with fingers is a fine motor skill. Walking, balance lifting are gross motor skills. People are incorrectly calling slingshot a gross motor skill to bolster their arguement, that is what is BS. I never said you don't lose fine motor skills under stress.

Not quite sure why you quoted me in your response and this "call you a coward" thing....very odd

Sling shot method is a fine motor skill also, as is pressing the mag release and the trigger. If your fine motor skill are so bad that you can't hit the slide release, then you can't hit the mag release or press the trigger. Learn and practice both. They both work, but the slide release is the faster way because you release the slide with your weak thumb as you regain your grip

If you aren't willing to tackle the trigger job because of the tools needed, then building a 1911 is not going to be for you. The trigger job is the easiest part. You will need specialized tools and fixtures to properly fit a barrel. You can go with a Kart ez fit barrel, It can be good, but never great Series 70 will be easier to build, there is no benefit to a series 80 I would recommend fosters for a frame, they are caspian blemishes that are barely noticable. I would stay away from anything by Fusion or remsport especially if they are doing any fitting

why wouldn't you use the slide release to chamber a round. It is the fastest method. The whole fine/gross motor skill is BS anyways. All manipulations of a handgun are a fine motor skill, including sling shoting the slide

Alec.mc, you designed Stage 4, one with the closed port and 2 steel? Good stage, that was a fun one

Can we get the scores posted here while you work out the website issue?

38 super runs very well in a 1911 because the OAL is the same as 45. If ammo availability is not an issue then there is no reason not to get one. I would recommend getting one with a ramped barrel if you want to run hotter loads

USPSA is just a test of the fundementals, no more, no less

Get used to dropping them and then cleaning them. Its a good excuse to take some extra time after you shoot the stage to regroup, relax and reload. $35 is nothing for a mag. Some mags are $200

in the pic it looks like it is 45* off, are the large opening up and down?

You only need to crimp enough to remove the bell. Neck tension holds the bullet, not crimp. If you are going to use lead bullets, I would seat and crimp seperately. It will scrap lead if you don't. Also I would not use a FCD with lead, it can undersize the bullet and cause accuracy and leading issues A EGW U-die is very useful if you are using range brass

A white target (no shoot) is a 10 point penalty. Plus a 10 point penalty for missing the target. Although if you hit just the edge of the no shoot you may not get the miss penalty, if you hit the brown target also A single round miss is 10 point penalty

2.47. I think, not 100% sure.