302w

This is some scary crap, that is for sure.

I'm curious to see if there are any cheap, and/or pro bono pistol courses I can take for an FL CCW. I know I am probably asking for too much, but I really can't afford the $150 price tag GFH charges. Nothing against them, I just feel that I was taught well growing up, and I trust myself carrying a handgun. I'm sure someone will chime in saying "there is no price you could put on training", but please don't. I'm a college student and shooting costs enough money. I have my own handgun if that matters.

I'm happy since the detective said it should take three weeks, according to him "they have all of the FID stuff on file so it makes P2P's a breeze". My roomate has to get stuff through NJSP and it took them about three months.

Pepperballs are legal to own but paintball guns are illegal to carry, just an FYI.

No No. keep them away from kids. And nothing really. The shells won't do anything, and the 9mm will just explode and not shoot the projectile. The pressure in the gun propels the bullet. I like to store my ammo in GI ammo cans. If you can fit it in the safe, doo it.

I called my towns detective regarding P2P's since I'm not in town monday thru friday and the officers on the weekends don't know if I can drop off forms or if the detectives need it. Turns out I can drop off the forms, but I need to give them an $18 money order to the state police for a "State Bureau of Identifications" check or some crap like that, form SB212A. What is this? Does everyone need to do this? Luckily it should only take three weeks for the forms to come thru since they have my stuff on file, or so I am told. I don't blame the PD for this, but I am angry that I have to go through even more loopholes and pay even more money for my constitutional right.

The minimart they're talking about is up the street from my school, and its a real crappy place. I never stop in but there are always shady people about, and it looks like there is a brothel type place behind it. Juvie is also a block or two away.

My dad told me a story once of how someone was selling gold bricks out of a car, and drilled a hole out of it and gave the filings to would-be buyers to have verified its real. When the buyers came back to buy the brick, they bought a brass brick instead.

I know... thats why I posted that lol

I'd say a nickel plated Colt 1903 is a pretty classy "status symbol" handgun. I saw a crappy blued one in a gunstore awhile back and I really wanted to buy it.

Find a friend in PA or NYS and have them keep it for you. Legally, it is theirs, but you get the point. Bring some ammo up when you visit them and shoot it. Significantly better than jail or having it recycled into soupcans.

M1's A pre Series 80 Colt 1911 a good American Revolver (Colt Python, pre MIM BS S&W, etc)

Bah humbug to all of these GM's and Miatas.

After shooting my '43 Izhevsk I decided I really want to be able to see what I am shooting at 100 yards. My plan is to: 1. Acquire a bent bolt. 2. Pay a competent gunsmith to drill my receiver for a PE scope (I don't own an ex-sniper, but I want the two holes in the side). 3. Make a bracket myself that has the same basic shape of the original Ruskie designs. Should be two pieces of steel in a 90 degree angle. Then tap and drill the top of that for a weaver mount. 4. Buy a junked up 91/30 stock and refinish it/cut it for my mount. My original stock is too nice to bubba it up. Thoughts? Yes, it is a tad bubba, but when I take all the stuff off it just looks like a drilled ex sniper...

It seems to me that BLF has to stand up to the "anti-LEO" argument too often here. Not pointing any fingers whatsoever, but it seems like this happens a few times a week.

I often wonder how much different Newark would be if we could CCW. Muggings are pretty common around here.

I like to use my Lansky to sharpen and my jeans to strop my Kershaw Leek.

Anyone have any use for the 7.62x54R crates? I kind of want to buy a crate and turn it into a cool storage box, and use the two spam cans to make a hinged storage tin.

Depends on what you buy. I only buy tools there that I expect to use once or twice (or is a really, really good deal). All of my hand tools are Snap On, SK, and Craftsman, and power tools are various reputable brands. I needed a 1/4" torque wrench so I bought it there.

I would casually ask the detective what exactly the school will receive. All of the paperwork my friends and I have received for one another mentioned P2P's or something. If the detective would send something not entailing any details... I would go ahead. If it is abseloutely necessary that your school gets a letter about your FID, I would wait until you have tenure. All it takes is one person to think you are an EVIL CRAZY SHOOTER and you could be seeking a new job in June, or a month before tenure. It is a crappy situation but the school needs no reason to not offer you tenure. I know the word went around my crappy retail job a few years back that I was "armed" when I applied for my FID. I wont be applying for any P2P's when/if I go for a teaching position.

I got by using screwdrivers, pliers, and profanity.

I am a big fan of Breakfree CLP. It isn't the most effective at cutting through old gunk, but it is all I need for my newer stuff. And I like the smell of it, it smells like bananas. My dad has a bunch of convienient small bottles of the stuff from his military days. I'll use CLP on most things, and I use Hoppes outside when cleaning my Mosin or whenever I get a new to me firearm and the bore is crazy dirty.

I'm a big fan of Henry rifles myself. It is a lever action, but more fun than a bolt and just as effective IMHO.

I would look at it as they did you and your kids a favor by letting you go. Kind of a no harm/no foul situation. Now, if you were to get pulled over and they wanted to search your car for firearms or whatever... I would ask for a warrant. Bottom line is, you were breaking the law, and a LEO let you off the hook. I would forget about the situation and move on.

Are the brakes working? If there is no squeaking/chatter and they are actually stopping the car... you are probably fine. Front brakes do 70% of the stopping anyway. Lift up the back end, take off the wheel, and just grab the drum and physically pull it from the car. Inspect the drum and brake pads for cracks and obvious wear and put the drum/wheel back on. Very simple and easy. It is good to be cautious when working on something you aren't familiar with.. but you are over thinking this a bit. If you ever need to replace the pads buy a Haynes manual and do it yourself if you have the time. Drums are very simple.