High Exposure

Front mount: http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/keymod-qd-rl-sling-mount/ Rear Mount: Either sling through the vertical slot at the rear of the stock, or swap the Receiver end plate for the one V9 mentioned above*. Swapping the end plate should take minimal effort and about 5 minutes. * IWC makes the same end plate so you could one-stop-shop it. ETA: The back of the Magpul Fixed Carbine stock has a hole to install a sling cup. The problem is the sling cup costs almost as much as stock itself.

Poop.... Everyone is taking this! Stop rubbing it in. Oct 7th is my 10 year anniversary, there's no way I can go.....

There's a range in New Paltz? Tell me more! I spent many years kicking around New Paltz while being a climbing bum.....

I was shooting a red dot out to 300 yards with no issue. The 1-6 Strike Eagle should be fine. PM out to you

Email Vortex. They have an excellent good -guy discount for first responders and military (I'm assuming by your screen name you fall into this category). I have a Strike Eagle 1-6 (there is also a 1-8). I am very happy with it. It's a lot of glass for the money. It is worth it to save a little longer if it comes to that.

You can forgive this? Not me.

Truth. Troy devices are even worse. For a while, the FSCs started coming pre-drilled because everyone was having such a hard time with them.

2 point quick adjust sling is the answer here. Top choices are: Blue Force Gear VCAS Viking Tactics VTAC sling and Magpul MS1

They also issue SERPA holsters.... just sayin'

One of ours is too many. All of theirs is never enough.

Unfortunately, the "everyone is different so do what feels good to you" doesn't always work if you are trying to improve. Of course injuries or other body differences may indicate something different needs to be taken into consideration, but that is generally the exception, not the norm. There are some things that just are. Math is math and science is science. The physics are there, provable, and repeatable. The further apart your hands are on the rifle, the more control you have and the more stable you are. That's a fact. Just because a magwell hold is more comfortable to you doesn't change the fact that it's less effective. No one is saying you have to change it, just know there is a better way. If everyone just did what "feels good to them" then why are there instructors that teach you things and make corrections. If what feels good or right works the best then everyone would be an awesome shooter, or golfer, or climber, or surfer because we naturally do what feels right to us. Like it or not, some ways to do things - even ways that may seem alien - are better than others, even if they are uncomfortable or weird at first blush.

Ooooooooooooooo! What are you having done? I was seriously looking at having them do a Boba Fett gun for me on my PCC.

Not just for you you buddy. For everyone. It's SCIENCE! Holding the magwell definitely takes less energy than getting your support arm way out there, but the magwell is the center of balance of the gun. The closer you hold to the center of balance, the more wobble you get on the muzzle and the more energy it takes to stop the muzzle where you want it when driving the gun. In practical, terms this makes you slower and more apt to miss your target. The closer your support hand is to the muzzle, the more control you have on starting and stopping movement and the steadier you can hold the rifle. Caveat! There is a point of diminishing returns where the stretch you have to make to reach further is uncomfortable or unreasonable based on the kit you may or may not be wearing, arm length, barrel and handguard length, rifle accessories (light, laser, grip, etc..), and level of fatigue, but it's definitely further than the magwell. I have found grabbing the forearm between 1/2 and 2/3 out (still keeping a slight bend in the support elbow) is the best compromise between solid shooting, endurance, and comfort on a rifle that has the proper length of pull for your situation.

Booooo! bad advice.

Maybe I'm just lucky (I'm totally lucky ) but I don't have any of these issues . My wife rules! Ask @medic2264

If you do a Google image search for "P40 Warhawk 1911" or "P40 Warhawk pistol" you get a lot of photos of different version of what you are looking for. I have kicked the same idea around myself a few times.

Sorry John - I loathe the grip pod. I wouldn't take one if it was free. If I want a bipod, I'll get a bipod. After much time behind a gun I have learned that I much prefer handstops to vert grips. I started with full size vertical grips like the Tangodown that I grabbed full-retard (like a broomstick). I found my accuracy diminished as I tended to torque the grip and roll the rifle a few degrees inboard. My wrist and arm got tired faster as the hand position was uncomfortable for long periods. As I got tired, my elbows started creeping up into a chicken wing, which is less stable than a tight elbow down stance and also affected accuracy. Finally, the grip was a snag hazard on my gear and the environment. Then I moved to the TD Stubby on 1913 rails and the Magpul VFG for direct connect to MOE Hand guards as I learned a thing or two and progressed to a thumbs forward/thumb break grip. This was a much better choice and I didn't need a the full length of the grip anymore. The shorter grip hung up on stuff less and the new hand position was much more comfortable and didn't cause me to torque the rifle as much or chicken wing giving me better hits for a longer amount of time. As I shot more and more I found myself going to more of a C-Clamp. No, not the Chris Costa hyper extended elbow crap - just a normal comfortable arm extension with some bend in my elbow and my thumb over the top of the rail. It was less fatiguing when spending long amounts of time holding the gun at a ready position instead of shooting and still kept my hand in a position to work my light, drive the gun faster, and control the muzzle. This led me to want a handguard that was as slim as possible and a vertical grip was contraindicated. I tried a few thicker triangular shaped hand stops - like the Magpul AFG. They just wouldn't do either as it made me open my hand up too much and cause me too lose some grip strength. I wanted just a slight bump out in the back so I had something to pull against with the heel of my hand and as little material as along the tube under my hand so I could get my thumb over the top without opening my hand so much. I finally settled on the below: If it was MLOK, the Magpul MLOK Handstop is my answer. For 1913 rails I prefer the LaRue Hand stop. I also like and and have used the Magpul XTM Handstop kit. For the Key Mod I am looking at either the BCM KAG or the Strike Industries Link Curved Foregrip. I am not 100% yet but these seem to be the best options I have found so far that are KM compatible and have the attributes I am looking for. I am still looking at KM options (I prefer MLOK but the LaRue deal came with Keymod) so this may change. If they made the Magpul Handstop in Keymod, I would be all over it.

Mark at L&M is good people and I have used him as well. Doug ATEi is also good people but I have never used him for work.

I bought a Lonewolf slide and had that Milled. I would swap between slides depending on what I wanted at the time. Eventally I got tired of swapping uppers and bought a stripped glock frame from The Glock Store for $60 on sale.

H2 buffer and a +10% action spring and it runs like a dream.

Build a .40 AR: Only .40 specific parts are QC10 Small Frame Glock Lower (Will actually handle 9mm, .40 S&W, and .357 sig mags), QC10 .40S&W barrel, QC10 .40S&W BCG, and I forget the who makes the muzzle break ( that was the hardest part to source). The rest are standard AR parts - you can spend as much or as little as you would like.

Update to my recent EDC knife - Spyderco Endura with the Emerson Wave. I added a Wise Men Co Signet Ring: Installed in about 5 minutes. It seems to be a very well made add-on. Yeah, it sticks out of the pocket a bit, but it isn't uncomfortable. And I am usually carrying a gun so any cover garment hides the knife too. It opens FAST, the wave catches the front of the pocket and the ring makes it drop right into your palm in an Icepick grip. They also make it for the Matriarch and the Delica.

Those will serve you very well. Excellent choices.

Same here. I don't have that specific trigger but I have a few Geissele triggers. If Geissele is an affordable option, it is the right choice.