High Exposure

Cool, thanks. Yeah, I saw that one too, but that's not it. Mine doesn't have the 2 finger cutouts. I know it's old school enough to be out of current production and I can find no info on out of production Strider knives. The DB looks closest in the current production stuff, but I don't think that's right either.....

I am not much of a knife guy. Can anyone ID this model Strider, and maybe give me a little info about it? It was just given to me and I can't even figure out which model it is. Thanks!

So.... You are saying you want an end result around 16.1"-16.25".... Just like everyone was recommending.... gotcha! This is all we were getting at - for both practical and legal reasons.

Hey bro. I hear ya. I have a few 14.5" + 1.5" guns (mix of carbine and midlength has systems) - when lined up next to each other they are all slightly different lengths and that is mostly due to the different muzzle devices on them. I can pick up any of them and run them the same way Basically, I think what I - and everyone else - is trying to say, is this: Just make sure you break the 16" overall length when you are all done. Other than that, don't sweat the - literally - small stuff. You want a 14.5" barrel and 1.5" gun, get one and pick a comp that will make the 1.5" to give you over 16". If it is 16.1" or 16.25" don't sweat it. Don't forget, when you install your device and you have to clock the comp/brake/mod on the threaded barrel that your total length will change as it rotates around the threads. You may not be able to get the exact measurement you want because you need to adjust the timing of the device. Crush washers, shims, peel washers - they all add some length. Barring some serious luck and/or grinding of the base of the device (without frakking it up) there will be some deviation.

If I handed you a carbine with a barrel length of 16.25" and told you it was 16.10" or even 16.00" you would never know the difference. If you ran a carbine with a 16.1" barrel and then an exact replica with the only difference being a 16.25" barrel, you still couldn't tell the difference. They would look the same to the unaided eye. They would feel the same when shot. They would drive the same on multiple target arrays. They would be equally accurate, equally maneuverable in a house, and equally effective. In the real world a difference of .15" of barrel is not worth the time, aggravation, or energy of the amount if thought you are putting into this. Hell, in all honesty, a 1.5" difference isn't worth it.

The BCM is hands down worth every penny of the $800, and the difference in quality between the two is worth more than the $200 difference. There's lower cost and there is best value. They are not the same. You are a self professed "noob", asking for advice from those knowledgable in the platform. If you are uncomfortable making the decision due to your lack of experience, that is a smart move. You then have a choice to listen to the majority answer given to you by the members here or ignore it. You have been brought to the crystal clear water, only you can choose to drink it. Hey, in the end, it's your money.

^^^^ What he said. Just put the TTO on the 16" barrel and call it good. You will notice zero difference in the way it handles.

Now now, there been plenty of seasons where this was the Rangers play off gear: Remember 1997-2004? We sucked it this year, but as long as we don't suck for 7 years in a row, we are doing better than some others.... Just sayin'

The shortest is a 16" barrel and no muzzle device or a 14.5" barrel and any 1.5" muzzle device you want. As stated, it's the overall barrel length (federally mandated at 16" without SBR paperwork - which we are all aware there is no provision for in NJ) that is the guiding light here, not the length of the comp/brake/moderator/hider/etc... If you are dead set on getting a muzzle device and are looking at putting one on a 16" barrel and want to remain as close to 16" as possible, look at the PWS TTO (Tim's Tiny One). It is essentially a PWS FSC556 with out the tines on the end. At 1.87" it is short and very effective. It's the one on the left: http://primaryweapons.com/muzzledevices/

Groovy. Thanks!

That's pretty Cool. You will likely lose some stability during rapid fire shots now that the "in line" recoil impulse of the original AR design has been altered, but let's face it, a couple tenths of a second added to your split time is a fair trade if your other option is not to have an AR type at all. I am really curious to see under the hood of the the ass-end of that thing and the BCG...

It may may or may not work but I wouldn't be surprised if they really tried it. You would be surprised what people will use to get high. Look up "Jenkem" if you don't believe me.

BCM EAG HS is the way to go. I have one with a Battlecomp. It is light, accurate, soft shooting, reliable, and comes with almost everything you need. Add a light and a RDS and you are done. Full disclosure,Pat (owner of EAG) is a friend. He went through a lot of upper designs that Paul built for him before deciding that this is the one to bear his company logo and put his reputation behind. He made a good choice

Just saw this.... I definitely interested. More important than saving a few bucks - if you know someone can you get the scoop on when is this thing going to be released for sale? I am about to put together a new build and if this is available soon I will pick this up over a new Fury.

Inconceivable!!! Anyone saying this is a common occurrence is a dirty liar. Everyone knows that revolvers never, ever jam [sic], only auto pistols have malfunctions! :rofl:

Lanyards are silly until someone loses a pistol in the field and while everyone else gets down time you and your 12 closest friends get to look for it all night. Or you get knocked on your ass and the pistol goes flying, or you are performing helo ops and the wind rips it out of your holster because you forgot to lock it in, or waterborne ops and your hands are wet and you drop your pistol, or your a medic and have slippery hands or have to put the pistol down to treat someone, or a million other reasons that are appropriate to a Marine or Soldier in the field. As far as chest mounted holster, it is great for mounted troops that spend a lot of time sitting in vehicles. It's faster to draw from than a hip or thigh rig and it is a more maneuverable weapon platform inside a HMMV than a carbine or rifle. It is also nice to get weight like that off your legs when humping mountains and you can't wear a hip holster because of armor or pack constraints. As for the video itself there are a couple of WTF moments, but all in all it is a good start to the new USMC program that is teaching their regular people how to fight with a gun vs. shooting.

I have mine like Vlad on a midlength. I just drilled out where I wanted it to go on the MOE handguard. I find I have much more control and it is easier to switch shoulder and run manipulations with the front sling attachment point as close to the receiver as possible. On a carbine length Handguard I do just use the back cooling slot.

If you are using them truly as "Back Up" iron sights to a quality optic the Magpul MBUS are totally fine. No need to spend the extra $$$ on Troy/DD/LMT/LaRue etc....

Same here. I just climb right on top of the stock. It's easier when wearing armor to do it that way anyway.

I had to plot storm drains and outfalls in large section of Holmdel as part of a non-point source pollution study at an old job I had. We captured the coordinates with corrected GPS locations and used a program called ARCView to plot them on a map. Worked pretty well and have the data you are asking for.

It the rumor is right and it is 500 lumens with a constant on/off capability I am very interested in this.

It's not necessarily the brightness, It's more about the throw and beam shape. Being a pistol light it is designed to be more effective at typical pistol engagement distances. For example at 500 lumens the X300U on my Glock is just as "bright" as the P2X Fury I have on my AR but at 50 yards it is not as effective.

Right, but IMO a pistol light, especially the TLR1 is generally suboptimal on a rifle. If that was what I was going to use, I would back the front BUIS up a bit (or use the new Tangodown Light Sight - https://tangodown.com/shop/tangodown-front-sight-flashlight-adapter/) and place the TLR1/X300U at 12 o'clock on the rail, makeing sure I had a true lower 1/3 co-witness on the optic.

Looks good but a few quick things: Bring your BUIS back all the way. Avoid tape switches whenever possible, they are a weak link and complicate your "switchology". Avoid multi-mode/multi output lights on rifles. Simple is better - bright light on/bright light off - that is about all your brain will be able to process under stress anyway. If you feel the need for a dim light to accomplish admin tasks, use a handheld light. The Thorntail is nice, and useful on short handguards, but with that long rail you don't need it. Buy a VTAC mount for ~$20 and you will be all set.