High Exposure

^^^ this x10000000000 FRAK Leatherman

I use lower 1/3. It gives me better situational awareness outside the optic. It allows me to keep my head up and not turtle my shoulders and back as much. It keeps me in a more natural and comfortable body position. I also prefer a standard FSB, and the lower 1/3 keeps less iron in my FOV. No. You are most likely shouldering the rifle a bit too low.

Me too, and this answers some of the problems we were talking about in the other thread.

You need to center the optic at 1.38" over the rail for a true absolute cowitness and 1.75" over the rail for lower 1/3 cowitness. The Aimpoint PRO QRP mount with the included spacer puts the center of the optic at 1.535" over the rail, roughly right between an absolute and lower 1/3rd co-witness. Removing the spacer in the QRP mount and putting it on flat top upper will give you a basically useless upper 1/3 cowitness. You can buy aftermarket mounts if you prefer a lower 1/3 co-witness. Photo comparison of absolute co-witness and lower 1/3 co-witness with an Aimpoint T1: Shows how much more of the optic is unobstructed by irons. Also, in my experience, there is no discernible difference in split times when transitioning from an optic to irons regardless if you are running a lower 1/3 or absolute co-witness. See this thread for more on optic mounts:http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/60940-wow-i-know-nothing-about-rifle-optic-mounts/

I use this: I bought a pistol UpLula when they first came out. I had previously been to a class at Blackwater where we want through a lot of handgun rounds. My hands were so sore I couldn't hold my drink at dinner every night and I thought it would help. Since the day I bought it, I have never, ever used it - even in other classes where I have fired over a couple thousand rounds over just as many days. It was faster and easier to just stuff mags by hand - which when coupled with hand exercises made them strong enough where I have no problems loading mags. I have found it to be a completely unnecessary device. So, I gave it away last year... to a little girl.... who also doesn't use it In all seriousness, barring a medical condition or age related issues, If your hands are quickly fatigued by jamming mags or are too weak to do it at all, you should probably work on that. Hand strength is important to shooting, especially handguns. Buying a tool because "it's hard" here is counter productive. Instead, if you want to make loading mags easier, buy one of these: http://www.captainsofcrushgrippers.com

I have a PRS stock on mine. It's a good stock and does what I want but it is heavy. I am running a ACOG so I don't even really need to adjust anything, I just had the stock so I used it since I am certain not sing I You don't need adjustability as much as a way to permanently alter LOP and comb height to fit you and your optic setup. A lot if times you can correct height issues with different optic mounts, but this does get harder with larger objective lenses that you just can get any closer to the receiver with.

Agree, but there is a pretty significant weight penalty. I wish they made the MOE fixed stock with adjustable height inserts like the 870 stocks. Or even if they had the slots for the clip-on cheek pieces like the standard MOE or CTR has.

Why?

I carry a G22 for work and a G27 for a BUG. I have a PM9, which I love and carry as a BUG off duty, and occasionally on duty depending on the assignment. The Kahr is nice as the manual of arms is similar to the Glock, it is also both slimmer, and lighter weight than the G27, but with an approx 1/3 reduction in capacity. The commonality of mags and even some holsters makes the G27 stand out. If you are already saddled with a "Block" as PB refers to it, it doesn't matter. Similar LOP, similar pointing characteristics, same sights, most of the same parts makes it easier on supply.... It's a no brainer, if you carry a G19/G17 then go with the G26.

Outstanding! :rofl:

They can not

But don't carry. Strictly verboten

I am with you. Sounds like you are on the right track. Ahhhhhh..... You lost me.... Your first paragraph just doesn't jive with your second.... Look at S&W Shield, Kahr PM9, Glock 26/27, Ruger SR9C, maybe a J-Frame in .357.

You don't have to go to the range to inspect the pistol for damage or out of spec parts. Lay out a nice white towel and detail strip the pistol and inspect everything. http://www.glocktriggers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/GlockTriggers_Disassembly_Reassembly.pdf

My money is on the slide stop spring either being broken or the slide stop is installed incorrectly. Make sure the spring is whole. If it is make sure it is installed correctly. Make sure that the slide stop spring is under the locking block pin. To ensure it happens, when you re-assemble install the locking block pin first, then put the slide stop lever in place and insert the trigger pin from the right to the left.

Checko, Eatadik! That is all. Sincerely, HE

I am not tracking and I suspect that there are some nomenclature issues at play. The buffer is the weighted clipped-cigar shaped peice with the nylon end. The buffer rides the action spring (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the "buffer spring"). The buffer and action spring reside inside of the receiver extension (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the "buffer tube"). Finay the stock is the external plastic piece that slides over the receiver extension and actually comes in contact with your shoulder. If your stock is what is loose on the receiver extension I suspect there is a discrepancy with a commercial-spec stock over a mil-spec receiver extension. If the actual buffer is "loose" or rattling in the receiver extension that's no big deal at all. It should move freely with plenty of clearance. It also may be a result of a commercial-spec tube larger inside diameter.

Outstanding! I took a CQB course from Frank and crew at the FBI range at Ft Dix in December of 2004. It was cooooooold! It was also excellent training with great instructors. I didn't even know that you guys were still around. This is great!

Here ya go: http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot53_4.htm

Moyock is the old Blackwater Facility. Top notch place to take a class and Kyle Defoor is an awesome instructor.

So tell me, what is in these .410 shells you plan on using for defensive purposes? How many pellets? What size shot? How much "spread" are you getting? Do the math - With the number of pellets and the size of your spread, how many hits per square inch? Per square foot? What's your margin of error? How "Accurate" do you have to be to get what you consider enough adequate hits to stop a determined human attacker? Keep in mind a hole in a paper target or a burst clay do not equal adequate terminal performance in human tissue. The required penetration is simply not there. These are not 12g 00B shells. They are .410 with very limited capacity. There is no such thing as a free lunch. If you want more "chances" to hit so you don't have to be as precise than you need to use smaller, less effective shot so you can pack more pellets in. You want larger pellets that will do more damage, well there goes your coveted spread. At the end of the day you are still shooting a .410 - which is universally accepted as being inadequate for self defense out if a 18" barrel - and now you are shooting it out of a 3" barrel and expecting it to perform better. Yes, shotshells take their payload and spread them out a bit in 3 dimensions. When used against larger game this is done with the intention if increasing the overall damage by allowing multiple pellets to hit simultaneously creating multiple wound channels and maximizing damage, not to increase the chance of hitting something with a single pellet. If you want the full advantage of what a shotshell can do, then you need to be as precise as if you were shooting a single projectile or slug. You want all of the pellets to hit as close as possible in a vital area. A human is not a clay disk that breaks into a satisfying puff of smoke if nicked with a BB sized pellet. A peripheral hit with one or two small pellets are simply not going to be devastating, and barring serious luck are not going to stop a determined attacker anymore than the sound of a racking a shotgun will. While we are talking about peripheral hits, what about the pellets that miss because you trusted the forgiving spread to do the work? Each of those pellets has a lawyer attached that points right back at you. Smaller shotshells loaded with even smaller shot do not spread as much as you think and if used against larger game/threats the smaller the shot the better your aim has to be because you need more of the shot to hit to do any damage - not to mention that the smaller shot has serious penetration issues and while gruesome to look at is generally a very superficial and shallow wound. Ask me how I know - I have seen a few suicide attempts with self inflicted .410. Ugly yes, deadly no - and these were point blank into vital areas of the face and chest. Also, the light rifling required to shoot the .45 even semi-accurately creates a "donut" effect on the shot, giving you a pattern with a hole in the middle, which makes it impossible to concentrate your pellets in one spot. Conversely, the because the rifing is light to facilitate the use of shot, the .45s are not as accurate as they could be. There are no half measures in self defense. ETA: read this - http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot41.htm

Trident Concepts offering mid-range marksmanship in Epping NH At the Sig Academy Sept 5-7, 2014 http://www.tridentconcepts.com/product/mid-range-marksmanship-epping-nh-9-5-7/

No one said that it isn't a fun gun to shoot or to not buy it. The OP posted his thought about this gun as a "self defense weapon", then goes on to "highly recommend" it to the members of this board in that role. Accordingly, the responses that he gets are going to be viewed from using the gun in the HD/SD role. If the OP posted "This gun is so much fun to shoot is is a blast to shoot clays with" he would have gotten 20 people agreeing with him, including me. Unfortunately instead he praised the .410 shotshell out of a 3" barrel as the ultimate 1 shot hooker stopper, even going as far to insinuate the old shotgun myth that you won't even have to aim it to get hits...

Yikes! I don't know about that one. Seems gimmicky. I don't think I could discern the difference in performance to truly "tune" a brake simply by plugging or opening small holes. On the other hand, if one of those things come loose I bet it get shot out like a bullet. I would have spend a lot of time inspecting that thing before and after each session to feel comfortable using that thing around other shooters.

At the end of the day you are firing a .223/5.56 cartridge. There really isn't a true need for any kind of brake or comp unless you are looking to shave fractions of a second off of your split times. Measuring effectiveness between any two is entirely subjective and the difference in performance is negligible - except to the shooter choosing one. As long as you are buying quality, it really doesn't matter if you choose: PWS/BCM/BC/Troy/KAC/etc.... except to YOU As far as being hassled by the man, you are overthinking it. Get what you know is legal - via common sense means - and go forth and do good things. In the case of the PWS print and keep a copy of the BATFE letter in your shooting gear/rifle bag. NJ does not have a Approved Muzzle Device list, nor does NJ measure actual "flash reduction" when determining if a device is hider or not. Everything is based on opinion of the NJSP Firearms Unit and the pinky test is merely an unofficial guideline.