High Exposure

I’ve never used the ring in any of my extractors. I do use the black rubber cylinder that fits I side the spring, but never the donut.

Sounds like a loose nut behind the trigger. You got good advice above. Curious to hear what you find.

Black nitride won’t peel, chip, or flake off. Proper lube and cleaning will keep it running smoothly. Staking tool (I have the MOACKS as well) won’t damage the gas key.

That is not to the TDP. That being said, it may never fail or it may fail tomorrow. I would buy a staking tool ($60 on Brownells) and make it good. Retain Value? Reliability is more important than resale value. How much value is there in a gun that doesn’t work right?

Leave the c-bund a little loose and you can slide into it like a tshirt.

Attach a holster to your PC via GCode or Safariland MOLLE/PALS adapter. If you are going to take the time to put something on, it may as well give you protection and a place to store your pistol in the event you need to use your hands. US Palm used to make a great BITN rig that had a holster and mag pouches sewn right in to the PC. Not sure if they are even around anymore.... And with a little practice (and gear staging) you can put a PC on in less time than it takes to put on your slippers.

When buying hard armor there are three important characteristics: 1) Affordable 2) Effective 3) Light weight You can pick 2. Do a “threat assessment” for your area and determine what you feel the most common round you may face. If you can’t decide, the rule of thumb is to make sure your armor can stop the rounds you carry.

You only die once. Choose wisely.

I had neighbors that had birds. Too loud

Yeah. Was a very cool place to walk around for a few.

Tropaquarium closed last spring/summer. Reportedly a victim of COVID restrictions early on. There is a new place, across 35 from Wegmans, called Aquarium Care Center that is all saltwater. We stopped by there last night just to look around and ask a few questions. The plan right now is to end with a mini reef tank. We will see how well that plan holds up as we progress.

Anyone here keep saltwater tanks? My son just turned 11 and all he wanted for his birthday was a saltwater tank. We got him a Biocube 16 - research said it was a good tank to start with, and we can use it as a quarantine tank if we decide to go bigger in the future. Liverock is coming today with Nature’s Ocean Sand and Nutrisea water to follow. I don’t even know what I don’t now about this stuff yet - so any tips and tricks and lessons learned appreciated! We are in no rush and are starting slowly. We are not planning to add fish for a month or so. Step one is to get the tank up and water stable. Trying to absorb what we can with books and online content.

That’s the brake I have on a few rifles. Works very well keeping the muzzle Flat when shooting fast. Then I have one Warden, that @JohnnyB linked to above, and I can install on any of the rifles with that MB556 device. I only use the Warden if I am shooting/training in a team environment to keep my muzzle blast away from my teammates where it can be distracting or cause injury.

When a muzzle device is permanently attached to a barrel, the device becomes part of the barrel, that’s how, under fed law, a permanently attached device can count for the last 1.5” when building a 14.5” barrel Into a 16” barrel. Threads on a permanently attached muzzle device constitutes a threaded barrel. Surefire (along with a few other companies - Griffin and Strike come to mind) make these “blast diffuser/deflector” devices as well, only without threads. I have the Surefire version, they call it the Warden - Works as advertised sending all the blast downrange at the cost of increased felt recoil (subjective) and decreased braking action (also subjective) from the SFMB556 permanently attached to the end of my barrel alone - there is no free lunch. The good part is, it attaches with friction and not threads identical to their suppressor attachments, so there are no issues with threaded barrels. Those threads on the outside of muzzle devices are exactly for the attaching of flash suppressors - unless it is a proprietary thread geometry that you will have to prove after you are in trouble, likely at great cost in money, time, and aggravation.

Why are you making it harder for no real return? Are you really timing your muzzle device every time you remove and install it? New crush washer/shims with each installation? You are torquing it properly so you don’t damage the muzzle of the actual barrel? That’s crazy. Put whichever device will let you use the rifle more often on the rifle and make it permanent. If there is a prohibition at the range you frequent that says you have to have a linear Comp, just put the linear Comp on and call It a day - Or, go with no muzzle device and have the barrel crowned. Then dial-in your interface with the rifle. Install a proper stock for precision shooting (look at an A2 or even a PRS if you are planning on shooting an 18” precision gun) not a Magpul fixed carbine stock - which has a length of pull optimized for shooting while standing or moving. Then add a real grip that will let you properly shoot your rifle. Having a consistent grip and appropriate stock placement is going to do much more for your precision than which muzzle device you have on the end of your gun. If you keep switching things you’ll never improve.

Dude on the forum is selling a MkIV 22/45 tactical. Not exactly what you are looking for but maybe close enough....

Get a Honda Ridgeline over a Taco. The trunk under the bed alone makes it worth it, let alone all the interior storage upgrades and the nicer ride of the Honda. The Tacoma is cooler looking. Although the 2021 Ridgeline looks much better than My 2018, but not as good as my 2008 did. Honda Ridgeline is a 6 cylinder.

If your in the process of obtaining a mortgage or closing on a house, you may want to wait on a new car or anything with a credit check and payments. I’d talk to your real estate agent or lender/bank before doing anything.

Crazy - I’m what? Maybe 10 miles from you? We’re getting big, fat, wet flakes here. About 4” so far.

Can you clarify what you need a little? Just a trigger pack )trigger, hammer, disconnect, pins and springs)? Do you need the safety/selector assembly as well? Are you looking for Mil-spec? Or do you want something higher end? If you are looking for straight Mil-spec parts, PM me. I can help you out.

Not looking for a Win ‘94, but if you have a Glock 48MOS someplace let me know.

Nope. Building still stands. It’s an art gallery.

I’m right there with ya bud - grew up in Atlantic and now I’m in the Hillside section of Navesink. There’s nothing close. If I needed something today, I’d go see Steve at Monmouth Arms. Sent other locals there and all had good results.

Arjay Sportsman Shop. It was on First Ave in Atlantic Highlands. I used ride my bike to buy archery stuff there when I was in grammar school. Bought my second car - 1976 super beetle - from the owner when I was 18. Good people. I was bummed when they closed up shop. It’s a Hippy Art Gallery now. I’m pretty sure they are not doing the FFL thing anymore for the public. they are concentrating on keeping up with the demand for tier carbines and SBFs.