High Exposure

You are speaking from your ass. Having had a green Veridian laser on your handy-dandy Beretta PCC makes you no more of an authority on this topic than owning a guitar makes you Jimmi Hendrix. The KISS concept is applicable to a great many things and I actually am a subscriber - however it needs to be taken in context. Blindly following KISS as an absolute would having you riding a BMX bike in the Tour De France.

Ray, I love you. You know I love you. But why? Why do you talk about shit that, judging by the ignorance of your absolute statements, you clearly know absolutely nothing about. All of my weapons are set up for defensive use (I guess you could even argue offensive use) and I find a vis laser very useful and an IR laser essential. But hey what do I know? You don’t see a need, so I guess no one needs one. You say a white light covers all the roles I use a laser for. Really? Riddle me this.... How does a white light act as a backup sight? How does a white light help me aim in a promask when I can’t get a good enough cheekweld and use my red dot? How does a white light point to a specific window/door/bush/car/structure/person that I am trying to describe to someone? A white light does nothing that a laser does, and vice versa. No, not everyone needs a laser. I, however, sometimes do. Just because you don’t need one, or find it useful, doesn’t mean it is superfluous. Nope, mine. Work supplies one for the work gun. I got one for the training gun.

Overly complicated? They are BUIS. They go up and they go down. Front adjusts elevation and rear does windage. Rear has small and large same plane aperture. They have the exact same capabilities of the MBUS PRO.

Green DBAL A3.

You have to focus it. Twist focus ring and the images will meet up.

Yet another backup sighting system and it’s great for shooting with a promask. In a team environment, you can also point to stuff, ID your position, and it’s a decent deescalation tool.

I like a laser on my rifle, not my handgun. I have a SIRT pistol for the training aid.

Why? I suggest shooting with them first. I do not like MBUS PRO, looking through the rear sight bothers me. The sight picture is off to me.

The data is wrong.

All firearms have a bore line/sight line discrepancy - often referred to as “mechanical offset” - and if you are using them for self defense, you should understand that. My stock Glocks with standard height sights it is just a bit over .5”, on the Glocks with suppressor height sights and mini RDS mounted, it’s a bit higher still. •••Again, the below commentary is for red dot shooting with “combat” accuracy standards - not precision bullseye or “sniping”••• Barms, It ain’t a mindfuck unless you think about it the way you are thinking about it. The bullet doesn’t rise. Due to the angle of the barrel in relation to the sights, it has a trajectory - a flight path that will intersect your line of sight two times: once on the way up, and once on the way down. That’s the simplest way to think about it. Except for those two times, the bullet will never, ever, ever, hit your exact point of aim. It will always be a little high or a little low. You need to know the distance for both of your intersection points, your maximum deviation over the line of sight and at what distance you will encounter it, and how fast it drops after the second intersection. This last part lets you figure holdovers for longer ranges - for example, I know with my 50 yard zero that to hit the chest at 300 yards, I need to aim for the neck, at 400 yards, above the eyes. With an appropriate and useful zero distance, your maximum deviations should be minimal at the ranges you are most likely to encounter. This allows you to not have to think about changing your point of aim for as long as possible. This is why I like the 50 yard zero. If I do my part, I will never be more than 1.75” high to 1” low from 25-225 yards*. For all intents and purposes - that is point of aim for social engagements. From 0-25 yards you need to account for mechanical offset regardless of your zero - if you are taking a high percentage shot. The offset will alway be equal to the distance between the center of your bore and your aiming point at 0 yards and decrease logarithmically from there until you reach your first intersection point or zero distance. If I need to take a precision shot inside 25 yards, with my preferred 50 yard zero, I know I have to place my dot about 2.5” above my intended point of impact if I am 7 yards and in. I place the dot about 2” high from 15 yards to 7, and about 1.5” from 15 yards to 25 yards and about an inch at 25 yards. Keeping these numbers in mind, I can estimate anywhere in between if I can gauge my distance to target appropriately. For example - If I am closer to 25 yards, my holdover is closer to 1”, if I am closer to 15 yards away, I hold closer to 1.5” high at 20 yards, I’ll split the difference and try to put my dot 1.25” above my intended point of impact. I also know that I find a 1” group at 25 acceptable so that’s why I only care about offset inside 25 yards. At around 130 yards I will have the maximum height over line of sight at around 1.5”ish. I am fine with a 4” group there, so I don’t change my aiming point. So, say my target is an 8” circle. If I aim dead center of it, I will never be more than: • 2.5”low of center at 0 yards, • Dead in at 50yards • 1.5” high of center at 130 yards • Dead on at 200ish yards • 2” low of center at 250 yards. These are all well inside my acceptable hit area of an 8” circle considering a 4” radius.

There are quite a few errors on this chart.

What Jon said. Private property is tricky - unless the owner of the property allows the PD to enforce all of Title 39 by passing an ordinance through the municipality.

Red dot moving the bullet? Ok. Look at this chart that describes the flight of your bullet at different zeroing distances: Note: The dotted horizontal blue line marked 0.0 represents your line of sight. The colored arcs represent the path the bullet takes. The red dot doesn’t move the bullet. The dot represent where your line of sight and the path of your bullet intersect in space at a given distance from the muzzle. See, the instant you press the trigger, gravity starts working to make your bullet fall to the ground. Hold a bullet in your hand and extend your arm parallel to the ground. Now drop the bullet. The amount of time it takes the bullet to hit the ground is the same as if you fired it from a rifle (if the muzzle was perfectly parallel to the ground). To counter this, so we can shoot further, we adjust the sights to angle the barrel so it isn’t parallel to the ground. This angle gives the bullet a ballistic trajectory. Your eyes to not see on a ballistic trajectory, they see in a straight line. Therefore your line of sight (which is a straight line) and the path of your bullet (which is an arc) are not the same. The bullet, will intersect the line of sight 2 times - once while rising (because the sights are above the muzzle) and once while falling. With a 25 yard zero, the bullet is still rising the first time it crosses your line of sight and will continue to rise until about 225 yards - where it will be almost 8.5” above your line of sight (that means if you want to hit something 225 yards away, you have to aim 8.5” low). After reaching its maximum ordinate at 225 yards, the bullet will start to fall and cross your line of sight again at about 375 yards. All this should tell you is that a 25 yard zero sucks for anything other than shooting 25 yards. I have found that the 50yard zero is the most useful for a shooting an AR. Zero at 50 yards and your bullet will intersect with your line of sight at 50 yards (while rising), maximum ordinate will be reached at about 130 yards and only be about 2” high, then start to fall crossing your line of sight again at 200 yards. Much more useful. You put the dot on the target and you will hit within +/- 2” from 25 to 225 yards. Mechanical offset will still rear its ugly head inside 25 yards and you will have to adjust accordingly - but that is regardless of zero. *This is all considering you are using a red dot optic on an AR type platform.

I did it more for the weight savings than the cost. I threw a set of Magpul Offset MBUS PRO on the gun for irons.

The ADM stuff is top notch. I also like the LaRue, but find myself buying the ADM stuff more.... Question - Are you planning on ditching the optic often? If not, you don’t need the QD capabilities of the ADM - I have found I really like the Aero Precision Mounts. They come in around $60-$80 and weigh only 3 to 4 ounces depending on the model. Worth a look at least. That is the mount my Steiner is in, in the photo I posted earlier.

I’m looking for exactly the same thing for exactly the same optic. What sizes did you get?

Ray, a muzzle device that you can slide a gas block over is nice in a state where everything has to be pinned and welded. Opens up a lot of options to upgrade or modify as new stuff becomes available.

The lock has been known to fail and lock the whole gun up.

I see what you did there! And the USS New Jersey to boot!! Well played!

Donut of Death!

Thanks, I’ll check it out.

Thank you! This may be the best thing ever posted!! The whole Han shot first thing always drove me nuts. Should be just “Han shot”. Makes him such a better character.

Tomorrow it will be Obi Juan Kenobi: and Juan Solo: