DargZ

Unless the range has no cellular service. You can try to rig something together but it may be just as expensive. The Caldwell solution is interesting and its price point is lower. It really depends on how often you shoot out to 300 yards. I can see hits out to 200 yards with my spotting scope.

Same ones for me. They get contacted every time.

I was considering it to save me the trouble of seeing my hits at 300 yards. I could not see my hits with my spotting scope so I had to walk back and forth. I can't imagine doing this for at over 1000 yards. If I do more of this, I would definitely invest in it. They do have two models. One out to 300 yards and another one out to a mile. Another new one I saw if this one although this one may have a higher chance of getting shot. http://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/71310

For non MIM 1911, you would need to look at Dan Wesson, Ed Brown or Wilson Combat which are substantially more expensive. The top Springfield models may still have MIM parts. Like others have stated, MIM parts should be fine. I have a STI Spartan with a 2 lb trigger job with no issues after about 2000 rounds. The big issue with cheaper guns is the fit and finish. The STI Spartan was made in the Philippines. The fit and finish leaves much to be desired but it works. I don't have any experience with Ruger but do have a Springfield RO. The fit and finish was much better at the price point they are charging. You can pay more for a tighter lockup and better accuracy. If you go that route, you are probably looking at a full blown custom.

+1 base pad does not work with the 126mm magazines. The base pads would hit the bottom of the grip unless you cut the grip down. The 126mm holds 15 with some tuning. If you are not careful, it may even hold 16 with a worn out spring.

Check the width of the feed lips. You can do this with a pair of calipers. I don't know the width off the top of my head but it seems you've had some miles with these mags. They tend to deform with lots of loading. You can gently bend them back into shape but they will not stay in shape too long. They may stay that way for a match or so.

Another thing to check is whether the mag's feed lips are within spec.

Nice write up Bob! It would be interesting to see some details about equipment. I have 929, a boat load of moon clips and BMT mooner but nothing else. It's still going to be a while before I compete with one unless I feel sadistic. There's still a ton of work I want to do to it before I try to compete with it. Trigger pull in DA is over the 12lb max my gauge can measure. I did swap the cylinder release with a hogue. I have some springs to lighten the trigger pull but don't really want to go the route of federal primers only at this time. If the federal primers become more readily available in the future, I would consider it. Wish list would be an Apex hammer as I don't want to hack up the original one and fiber optic front sight.

Why not just pick up a NFA lower? They seem to be on sale everywhere. You get a pick of roll marks depending on what you like.

Off topic but what sights did you get? Did you leave everything else stock?

What are you planning to use it for? Here are some of the options to mount for the M&P Core: - Trijicon RMR - Leupold Delta Point - Jpoint - Docter - C-More STS - Insight MRDS Glock MOS accepts the following: - EO Tech - Docter - Insight - Meopta - Trijicon RMR - C-More - Leupold Delta Point Vortex has a bunch between the Razor, Viper and Venom. I have a C-More RTS2 on my competition gun. I've had issues when I first got it as it did not have enough adjustment to zero. I sent it back for a RMA and the replacement I got has been pretty good but I've heard horror stories from others who have had it fail in the middle of a match. No big deal though as it's not a life and death situation. I hear the 3 revision of the RTS2 has been really good. My buddy has the FF3 and I recall he had issues where he accidentally powered it off in the middle of a course of fire at a match. He finished the stage by point shooting but it was difficult to watch. I don't really have much experience on the others though.

If you are going with a Glock mag compatible build, you would need to ensure that it is machined for the Glock mags. You can send this to a shop to do but this may be more expensive than buying a Glock compatible bolt carrier. If you have a mill or are comfortable with a dremel, you can also go that route. If you are still intending to go with the Glock mag build, I would get a Glock compatible bolt carrier to start with and save the headache unless you get a REALLY good deal on it.

Have fun. I just slapped the last piece on mine last night. I just need to take it to the range.

I thought this article was useful in my research. http://www.pariaharms.com/AR9.php

Oops, double tap on the phone.

Lantac makes a brake for the MPX already. I'm sure smart manufacturers will follow suit. It's not hard to change your thread pattern if you have an existing brake. They do not need to redesign the ports for the brake or anything.

HE, thanks for the pictures. It does look much simpler and sturdier than the QC10 solution. I'm not quite sure I like the look of the upper though.

I'd be interested in pictures of this when you have them. I've been looking everywhere for pictures on how the LBHO feature works. I'm sure there's a video that will pop up on YouTube at some point.

They do not sell any AR lowers to NJ. It's just too complicated to sell to NJ so they took the safer route to not sell to NJ. You can blame the complicated rules of NJ. There are plenty of places that sell to NJ at the same price if not better. Many of the AR 9 lowers are just re-badged NFA lowers with choice of roll marks.

I found two. I'm not sure if one is better than the other. There were some others. A quick look told me that the 20" isn't as popular as there is only marginal gain in velocity with 20" barrel over the 16" barrel. https://www.model1sales.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=364&CFID=87288101&CFTOKEN=48078433 http://franklin-armory.myshopify.com/products/franklin-armory-20-7-62x39-hbar-barrel

7.62 x 39 or 7.62 x 51 or something else?

I'm interested in hearing what fixes you tried. I'm wondering if changing the buffer spring or a lighter buffer would help. If you think it's the gas, maybe drill a bigger hole for the gas. I just built a QC10 in 9mm. I haven't tried it yet. I just need to find time to go to the range. I also have a QC10 large frame waiting to be assembled. I'm most likely going with the QC10 45 barrel and BCG for that build when I have more funds. I did quite a bit of research. It all started with a deal on Slickguns on AR-9 lowers and then I just went researching as much as I can. When I did my research, everyone seemed to refer to DDLES lowers were the best which was acquired by QC10. Other options for lowers that run on Glock mags were the Lone Wolf and New Frontier Armory. Joe Bob's is a NFA lower. Runner Runner Guns is also a NFA lower. JP rifles also makes the GMR-13 but it's pretty pricey. PSA released a new one for Glock mags but this was released after I got mine and I haven't found too much info on it. I like the QC10 lower as it has the bolt hold without a special upper although it requires specialized parts. If you break them, you can only order them from QC10 but the good thing is that I can use any upper receiver. I was interested in the NFA but you need a specialized upper for the bolt hold. When I purchased mine at the end of last year, the upper was still not out so I did not want to wait. I was not a big fan of the look of the Lone Wolf so I did not even consider it. I was considering the JP GMR-13 but it did not have bolt hold. I was so close to buying one until I found this out. I've seen a few JP GMR-13's in the USPSA PCC division and they run like sewing machines. I only considered lowers that accepted Glock mags as I have a Glock and the mags already. I also didn't want to go thru the trouble of getting a Colt and then finding pinned mags. I'm sure you could buy the Colt mags and pin them in another state but I didn't want to go that route. If bolt hold doesn't matter to you, you have many options. For my build, I used the QC10 lower, JP 9mm barrel, bolt, muzzle brake and silent capture spring and of course Glock mags. Everything else is pretty much standard AR stuff.

Funny that they are pushing this. I'm sure the funding will go towards the big 2A fight in 2016 including the presidential race. Once they collect all they can from current members that convert to life, where does funding come from for future issues unless they can get life members to open their wallet again. I'm asking as I see this as a short term measure that does not help us in the future. I wonder if every NRA member would do a one time contribution of $100 that will be ear marked towards lobbying for universal conceal carry.

I understand the protection of 2A rights. I'm just trying to understand why everyone is rushing to get life benefits at a discount. If the primary motive is the protection of our 2A rights by providing money into the war chests of the NRA, shouldn't we all give them as much as we can instead of trying to get a discount on life benefits? Once they collect your $300 or $500, you are no longer any help to the primary cause unless you are doing more to help the cause other than providing your dollars such as lobbying and actively petitioning. Life benefits get $10k in AD&D coverage over my meager $5k. It's not bad that this benefit only cost me only $35 but my main source of AD&D coverage is thru work. I could be missing something as I did not go thru all the different discount benefits but I would be interested in hearing what benefits people are leveraging.